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(2014) Moldova is one of those 'bubbling' under countries which, since the dissolution of the Soviet Union, has slowly been finding its wine feet as once state controlled vineyards find new owners and improvements are made. This comes from the Purcari estate, home to the Purcari cellars founded in 1827. Unoaked, there is a herb-scented, lightly floral aspect to this, as well as having ripely nutty, Cox's pippin and pear fruit. There's a suggestion of ripe concentration, but gentleness too. In the mouth it is bone-dry, with a pithy quality to the fruit - lemon and grapefruit - but enough leesy texture and richness to smooth the finish. Much more Pinot Gris than Pinto Grigio.
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