(2023) This Etna white is 100% Carricante, from vineyards at 700 metres. It is unoaked, but does spend time on lees before bottling. Malolactic has been blocked here too, adding to the freshness of this straw-lemon coloured wine. Though not particularly aromatic, the subtle notes of citrus and pear, also have just a suggestion of something flinty and mineral. In the mouth it is fleet if foot with only 12.5% alcohol, and though lemon and crunchy apple drives this, there is a nice and decisive punch to the wine, a light suggestion of smokiness and pithy lemon and grapefruit adding some complexity. The finish shows a little salt, mingling with juicy lemon. €22 in Italy.

(2011) Much cloudier, big, sour lemon and apple nose, with that saltiness again, a smoother take on the style, with a certain juiciness but that slate and stone minerality against the lemon rind.