(2022) Really breezy and fresh, lots of ozoney freshness and cool, clean fruit that has hints of greengage and gooseberry, but linear and taut. The palate has beautiful clarity, a ripe peachy juiciness and fullness, but then a lovely blast of mineral-fresh acidity, but staying so juicy and well balanced.

(2020) Around 65% of this is Gros Manseng, vinified in barrel, 30% Petit Courbu and 5% Arrufiac. These are 50-year old vines from a special parcel on a cooler slope on clay and limestone and it is Plaimont's top white cuvée. From a hot year this has retained its freshness very well. There's a charming peachy, downy fruitiness on the nose, but also a zesty lemon vibrancy and a smoothing note of nuttiness and light toast. In the mouth it has weight and texture, a certain fat in the mid-palate, vanilla and a nuance of honey, but that lemony thrust of the acidity tensions the whole picture, giving this fine precision and length. Olivier recommends with a special ham produced in the region, and I can see that working well.