(2024) This wine, as much as any other in the Naudé portfolio, struck me as the essence of 'natural' Chenin, with neither the flinty reductive quality of some hip examples, nor the enhanced fruitiness of more commercial bottlings. Fruit comes from vineyards in Swartland, Durbanville and Stellenbosch, fermented naturally in oak and aged six months. It's a wine with an unforced concentration, only 11.5% alcohol, but the dry, savoury precision of the 50-year-old vineyard fruit, like yellow plum and greengage, just teasing at something more luscious. It is textured, but sharpened by a fine acidity.

(2023) Barrels of flor-affected wine are used as a starter culture, then blended into larger quantities of Sauvignon Blanc. Lovely glowing yellow/lime. Soft and creamy, with with a vibrant lemon and orange tang, with a very keen edge and touches of spangle brightness. Broad in texture with such bright fruit, this was arguably my favourite wine of the tasting.

(2023) The name is of course a pun on Vin Jaune, for this is a wine styled after the famous voile-affected wines of the Jura, even coming in a similar little squat bottle. Matured under veil for four years, it is 100% Sauvignon Blanc (rather than Savignin) from limestone soils under sand. Gorgeous, walnutty, orange and marmalade notes, bready and again the brightness of lemon comes through. This has great freshness, with a touch of curry-leaf adding intrigue. Perhaps the veil effect could be felt even more strongly, but a fun and very good wine. No retail stockists listed in the UK at time of review.

(2019) From seven vineyards across the Swartland, all older than 35 years, mostly grown on the granitic Paardeberg mountain. Whole-bunch pressed, matured on the lees in neutral 300-litre barrels, without stirring. There’s some lemon peel and a red apple, juicy character. On the palate, racing with lemon and orange oil bitterness, beautifully off-setting the sweetness of the fruit.

(2019) From the Klipkop vineyard, planted in 1966, this fermented for 16 months on the lees. It has a nose of melon and lightly waxy citrus skins. The palate burst with juicy, ripe, pear and melon, recently bottled and will settle, but just thrilling orange acidity that is vital and full of energy. Stockist at time of review is for an earlier vintage.

(2019) Steen is the old name for Chenin Blanc in South Africa. A lot more funkiness than the Klipkop, with melon skins, apple cores and a dry character. Absolutely sparkling fruit sweetness and clarity, a great texture and grip here, a bitter almond oil touch to the finish, smooth and long, though concentrated fruit and pith acids balance out in the finish.

(2019) Chenin from granite, Verdelho and a touch of Viognier. All fermented in old oak, mostly big barrels, though the Chenin in older 225l barriques. There’s a bittersweet character here, and lots of juicy apple skin and firm pear flesh. Lots of lemony acidity, lemon jelly softness yet good acid bite.

(2019) A fascinating mutation of Cinsault, not a blanc de noirs, made with skin contact and fermented in amphora, this is lovely with creaminess and a touch of light dusty earth, fine crisp palate, still has weight and texture and a lovely lemon confit finish, long and distinctive.