(2023) Hard to believe that the 2000 vintage of this same wine was my 'Wine of the Week' 22 years ago, but here we are in 2023, not 2001, and the wine is better than ever. From the north of Italy, Pinot Grigio is the ubiquitous pub wine with oceans of refreshing but undistinguished stuff exported to the UK each year. But there are producers of superior quality products, and this still moderately priced example fits that bill. CAVIT is a giant cooperative that dominates wine production in the Trentino region, the Tyrolean part of Italy close to the Austrian border. They are leading lights in research and improving quality, and here we have a Pinto Grigio with the requisite lemons and limes aromas, touched with florals, but the wine is stamped with quality: a little more texture on the palate than you might expect, racier, punchier flavours, but still light on its feet and with perfect acid balance. Watch the video for more information and food-matching ideas.

(2022) From a vineyard classed as experimental - although it has been run by CAVIT since the 1980s. Here a number of varieties and clones are grown for their agronomists and winemaker to experiment. Chardonnay has been planted in Trentino since it was an Austrian territory. This is barrel-fermented and aged until the May following harvest, then best barrels are selected for this cuvée. Lightly toasty and spicy on the nose, oak relatively obvious but topped by fresh lemon verbena fruitiness. Palate quite cool and clean, again it is citrus and yellow apple that carries the palate, acidity quite tangy and lightly salty perhaps.

(2022) After years of research via PICA, vineyards planted at higher than 600 metres - much higher than PG would normally be planted, maturing three weeks later and changing the profile of the wine with its mountain profile. There is also a very strict selection of grapes, each vineyard fermented separately in stainless steel, before final blending. Peaches and orange peel sum this wine up, along with a dash of mineral salts. Great intensity, juiciness, but a shimmering clarity to the acidity.

(2022) From the best areas for this variety, a mix of Mediterranean and more Alpine conditions. There's plenty of juicy yellow apple and lemon, but also hints of straw and minerality. It has quite a mouth-filling creaminess, less than 3g/l of sugar, but real juicy sweetness through the mid-palate. Delicious and quite full, yet the acidity is crisp and very nicely integrated.

(2021) From the super-Cooperative cellar, CAVIT, a range-topping Pinot Grigio cropped very low (45hl/ha) from high altitude vines with an average age of 15- to 30-years. It's an elegant and yet concentrated wine, unoaked, and showing a distinct salts and minerals edge to ripe pear fruit - not pear drops, but fully ripe fruit. In the mouth it has texture and a little sense of grippiness, very dry, a nice bitter endive twist to the finish where good acidity also pushes through.

(2019) A wine from Trentino, further west than Valpolicella and closer to the Austrian border. The Conti Bossi Fedrigotti family has 600 years of history on the estate, making wine for more than 300 of them, and today, like Serego Alighieri, Masi takes care of winemaking and commercialisation of the family's wines. Mostly Chardonnay with Traminer, it's not quite as aromatic as I expected, but there is a trace of floral character that blossoms on the palate. The oak is discreet and gently oatmeally, but the crisp orchard fruit, just edging towards exotic, balances with nicely judged, dry and lightly saline acidity.

(2019) Trentino's super co-op, CAVIT, produces an awful lot of wine, and an awful lot of Pinot Grigio, but that does give them the vineyards and the resources to add very high quality strings to their proverbial bow. This Pinot Grigio comes from some of their highest altitude and lowest-yielding vines from just north of Lake Garda, aged 15- to 30-years old. There's a creamy suggestion of density on the nose, soft leafy green herbs meet apple and something a little more honeyed. In the mouth it is a dry, zesty and linear style, serious and restrained, staying focused and pure with a hint of saltiness in the finish. Watch the video for more information and food-matching ideas.

(2018) Nosiola is a native grape of Trentino in the far north of Italy, often harvested late to make sweet Vin Santo wine. But here Bottega Vinai (a brand of the super-coop of the area, Cavit) has made a crisp, fresh and dry Nosiola with broad appeal. The variety takes its name from nocciola, the Italian word for hazelnut, the grape said to have a nutty flavour, and indeed, there is a nuttiness here, as well as firm pear and gentle spices, before the palate reveals its bright, focused and juicy fruit, licked with salts and finishing with a dry lime peel lick of precise acidity. A lovely grown-up wine that has broad sipping and food-matching appeal. Watch the video for more information and food matching ideas.

(2017) CAVIT is a super-cooperative (a co-op made up of other co-ops with over 1000 members) that totally dominates the Trentino region as I discovered on a visit way back in 2004. Bottega Vinai is a selection of the very best plots, in this case of Pinot Grigio from 30- to 60-year-old vines. There is a lovely delicacy to this wine, white flowers and the most gentle blossom and apple perfume. In the mouth it is dry, with pear and apple core acidity, and very good concentration. There's a saltiness too, in a crisp, decisive and characterful white wine.

(2006) >From Trentino, high in the foothills of the Dolomites close to the Austrian border, this is cool-climate Chardonnay, aged partly in barriques for four months. It has a beautiful sense of limpid freshness on the nose, with a little oatmeally quality, and a palate that combines lush, nectarine fruit with a dry, pithy citrus fruit acidity.