(2024) Ambra Zanetti is the third generation winemaker at this family estate, where vines are up to 60 years old, and yields very low. Work in the vineyards observes some biodynamic principles, but the wine is not certified biodynamic. It was fermented and aged in concrete vats with a 24 hour maceration with skins, them 24 months in vat. It certainly stands out among the Lugana wines tasted here, much more herbal, leafy and limey. There is that lightly earthy, kaolin and yeasty note too. The palate has a little phenolic grippiness and this is a citrus, acid-driven style. It has texture, a little nuttiness and good length with a certain juiciness. Different, but very good.

(2024) Founded 1938, the Franzosi family originally produced a limited quantity of wine and olive oil from six hectares of land. Today, their vineyard covers 25 hectares, plus an additional 15 hectares which they manage. Fermentation is in stainless steel followed by ageing in bottle. There's a softening almond and oatmeal nuance to the fresh sliced apple and more peachy fruit here. Clean, well-balanced palate, the acidity braces and extends into a long, pleasing finish that is dry and food-friendly.

(2024) Farmed by four generations, hillside vineyards begin just ten kilometres from Lake Garda. Soft pressing followed by light maceration on the skins and six months in steel barrels. Moderately deep straw/lemon colour, and a sense of mealiness with a hint of almond to the fruitiness. Quite an exotic character to this, both aromas and then fruit on the palate flirting with lychee and mango, copious ripeness and a little phenolic edge adding to the acidity too.

(2024) From a 200-year-old winery owned by the Begnoni family, who have a focus on sustainability and environmental protection. This comes from hillside vineyards of carbonate minerals and clays and was fermented and given short ageing in stainless steel. A particularly peachy, soft and fragrant wine, a crisp golden delious crunch and bite of acidity freshens the palate, but it zips along with abundant fruit and zest.

(2024) 100% Turbiana from hillside slopes at 150-250 metres on calcareous clay soil, vineyards 20 years old. After fermentation in temperature controlled stainless steel, it aged 10 months in a combination of steel and small barrels. A fresh, floral and quite mineral nose, subtle almond nuttiness. In the mouth this has a clarity, tension and brightness - even edginess - compared to some. Fresh, crisp and appley acidity adds to the impression.

(2023) There's Soave and there's Soave, and this superior example from Tedeschi, 100% Garganega, comes from family vineyards in the heart of Monteforte d’Alpone and volcanic clay soils. The nose is charming with its fresh, bright fruit and subtle background of honey and nuttiness. In the mouth the amalgam of peach and citrus means this is both ripe and quite luxurious, but pin-point sharp, the acidity of the dry finish is poised and precise, without ever becoming shrill.  A lovely example.    

(2022) Founded in 2003, I Stefanini has quickly built a reputation for quality, this 100% Garganega wine being one of three I Stefani Soaves stocked by Dudley Jones. Surprisingly deep buttercup colour with a flash of emerald, the nose has chamomile and spring flowers, a touch of nuttiness and lemon. In the mouth a delightfully zippy and refreshing wine, very good mouthfeel with a slippery texture and fruit moving from apricot and light honey into a zesty but rich finish. A terrific Soave this, with bags of character. Watch the video for more information and food-matching ideas.

(2021) Pears and fat Amalfi lemons in this crowd-pleasing Pinot Grigo which has a dollop of residual sugar (5g/l) to make a by-the-glass sipper but one with a bit of quality. Decent concentration of pear and lemon fruit, and balanced.

(2019) A small proportion of Verduzzo in this blend was fermented in 600-litre French oak and that nutty creaminess comes through, with more subdued pear and a gentle grassy background. The palate has weight and structure, fine fruit sweetness and rich texture, but really fresh acidity that powers the finish.

(2018) From the Venice area, Soave is one of the great names of Italian white wine, though the quality of what is produced can be variable. This, however, is a very nice example, a blend of 85% Garganega and 15% Trebbiano I guess it must have seen a little lees ageing to add a gentle mealy, mineral quality to cool citrus and orchard fruits, a touch of blossom, but a clean, agile palate with beautifully defined acidity. Another favourite in this crop of wines.