(2019) Lovely burnished gold colour. Such complex tobacco and briar and sweet damp earth. The palate is so powerful and grippy, an amost Fino-like intensity but different flavour profile. Some lemon rind, but red wine or even Cognac-like in its dry vinous character and grip and quite magnificent as the toast and earthiness pushes through.
(2019) Very smooth, but immediately involving nose, with a slightly purer, less Botrytis character than the 2008, but lovely purity of fruit here, as well as the complex phenolic characters from the skin contact. Apricot and orange, marmalade-like quality of bittersweetness, delicious, the fruit almost nectarine like, but of course wrapped in more complex earth and salt flavours, spices too.
(2019) Six months of skin contact for this vintage. A slightly darker, hint of amber hue. Wonderful nose, all coffee and cream and a gentle, damp leafy character, the touch of briar and oxidation fitting beautifully with the picture. On the palate so bone dry and salty, like a fragrant meat stock broth, then that lovely lemony acid and pure mineral salt finish.
(2019) Bottled only in magnum, this is the special Riserva from 1915 and 1950 vineyards. One year in amphora, six years in barrel, then six more years ageing in bottle before release. Gorgeous, glowing gold. Nutty, lots of ripe apricot fruit, both fresh and dried, and an ash and tobacco lift, but very elegant as well as concentrated. Fabulous, endlessly long, complex and youthful.
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