(2023) The Chardonnay was whole bunch pressed and barrel fermented with 100% wild yeast. It spent eight months on lees, with partial malolactic fermentation. There's plenty of toast here, almost a cracked wheat character, quite subtle lemony fruit and a touch of stony flint. In the mouth more punchy than the Yering Station for example, a more vivacious blast of citrus juiciness and higher acid, though lacks a little of the latter's elegance. Price and stockist below is for the 2021 vintage.

(2021) Kooyong's Chardonnay comes from vineyards just 12 kilometres from the ocean in the south of Victoria State, on clay loam soils and vines around 25 years old. Whole-bunch feremented with wild yeasts, it spent nne months in French oak barriques, only 7% new, and only 10% was put through malolactic fermentation. Quite a pale straw/gold colour, charming nose, a little buttery and nutty, not overtly flinty though there is a touch of wet river stones, and the very juicy peach fruit comes through nicely on the palate, running into a lime acidity that's incisive but not too sharp.

(2017) Pioneers of Pinot Gris in Australia in the early 1990s, planting in Wogga Wogga where owner Kathy Quealy studied oenology inspired her. She says "Pinot Gris is just like Pinot Noir - it's very site specific and needs a cool climate. Mornington Pinot Gris is in huge demand in Australia." Much more leesy and aromatic than the Nazaary, more weight and texture on the palate. There is some balancing sweetness in a generous Alsace style.

(2017) From the southernmost winery on the Peninsula. Cuttings from Kathleen Quealy, queen of Pinot Gris. Fresh and limpid style, lightly creamy from oatmeal and almond barrel, arguably a touch too much has a fine apple skin with a fine texture. Very attractive, lemon sorbet character, it has fine texture, largely dry, acidity very good.

(2017) Nice, creamy, but brightly fruity Pinot Gris, plenty of lemon zest and firm pithy acids, a taut and juicy character, touches of herbs and saltiness in a fine, dry but gently creamy style.

(2014) The entry level Chardonnay is 100% barrel fermented in French oak and aged on the lees for 10 months, It is deliciously vegetal and complex, with complex flint and mineral notes and clear citrus fruit. The palate is lean and serious. There is a continuation of that flinty, complex sulphide character over apple and lemon, that gives this such tight raciness.