(2023) The Sercial grape traditionally makes the driest style of Madeira, and indeed this example has only around 15g/l making it only semi-sweet. The colour is a burnished, glowing amber. The nose is fabulous, from Seville orange to walnut to raisin and milk chocolate. In the mouth it has weight and creamy texture, and while those luscious Muscovado, walnut and apricot flavours flood the mouth, it's the beautiful energy endowed by sparkling acidity that gives this terrific impact. Tannins are modest, and the spirit brings only the gentlest heat to the spicy, fruity finish. Marvellous stuff. Watch the video for more information and food matching ideas. Price for 50cl. Watch the video for more information and food matching ideas.

(2019) Lovely golden colour and a nose of shellac and walnut, a fruity pear-like hint. Sweet, with immediate intensity. Mouthfilling richness and concentration, orange peel and candied fruit and again a walnut richness. Around 55gl of residual sugar, which is barely detectable.

(2019) The residual sugar here rises to 95gl in a wine with such intense raisin and brown sugar character, lovely depth of caramel-edged bittersweet orange. Marmalady, long and deliciously moreish.

(2019) As is traditional, the Malmsey is the sweetest in this 10-year-old range, with 125gl of sugar. Again into walnut and shellac tones over the Christmas cake fruit. So intense on the palate, but that thrilling balance with the searing acidity shimmering through.

(2013) 90g/l RS. Quite a dark, nut-brown tawny. Toffee and hints of Muscovado sugar, that lovely caramelised colour. The palate has lovely balance again: sweet, sweet wine, a twist of marmalade and liquorice, but the toffee and coffee comes through and of course that fabulous acidity that really sharpens this wine, running through to a peppery, spicy finish.

(2013) 75g/l RS. More amber coloured, with lots of fruitiness here, more berries and plum, then some walnut and tobacco spice. The palate has a gorgeous weight and texture, hints of the sumptuous richness, but then that firm, spicy core of acidity, citrusy and with shellac dryness. Delicious stuff, very long.