(2025) The colour here darkest of all, into nutty brown tones with a hint of ruby. Here, fruitiness is subsumed under spice and cedar, dried fruits, nuts and some sous-bois character. A more comtemplative style, the palate is easily the glycerine richest of the range, slippery in texture and unctuous, with coffee and caramel underpinning and warming the whole fireside picture, though a sweet depth of fruits, dried and mellow, joins excellent acidity. A distinctive style.

(2025) A similar chestnut colour to the Verdelho, there is a lovely figgy richness to this, and underpinning of mocha coffee and the expected nutty tones. But that fruit quality - fig and quince - is evident. Sweet on the palate, but not tasting dramatically moreso than the Verdelho for me, due to the fine acid core and the taut nature of this wine, smooth and elegant into the finish.

(2025) A little deeper and more chestnut in colour compared to the Sercial, this doesn't quite have that wine's aromatic fireworks, more subdued and nutty, with a deep sheen of polished wood. In the mouth it is noticeably sweeter and has a ripe feeling to the fruit, which is more forward than in the Sercial, more unctuous, with classically fine citrus acidity slicing through the finish.

(2025) Pouring a realtively pale tobacco brown colour, this has a delightful nose of citrus - Seville orange mostly - with nuttiness and that bready, yeasty lift that is so appealling. In the mouth it is definitely not 'dry dry', but the unctuous flavours that run from butterscotch to rich coffee have a depth of sweetness that is then cut by a sweep of acidity that certainly freshens and cleanses the finish. The warming nutty tones are there of course, but a delightful, balanced and long wine that's certainly on the dry side.

(2023) Madeira is undoubtedly one of the world's great wines, but arguably one of the most overlooked. The volcanic Portuguese island of the same name lies far out into the Atlantic off the coast of Morocco. It is from here that the tradition of these wines, fortified with spirit to withstand long sea voyages, began. Madeira normally has some sweetness, and the level of sweetness traditionally follows through the four most important grape varieties in order: Sercial wines are usually the driest, then Verdelho, Bual, and finally Malmsey, normally the sweetest.

This 15-year-old example of a Verdelho wine is a glowing amber to tawny in colour. The nose has that wonderfully evocative shellac character, old polished wood with a sheen of beeswax and varnish, and a nutty walnut and marzipan depth. In the mouth this is sweet and rich, brown sugar and intense raisin and walnut flooding the palate, with marvellous bitter orange acidity biting down on the long, spicy, tobacco-infused finish. Terrific and world class wine. Price is for 50cl.

(2016) One of the rarest grapes of Madeira, this Terrantez was bottled to celebrate the bi-centenery of Blandy's. It has a glowing, burnished gold/tawny colour and real lift of spice, flowers, a lovely and arresting aromatic, with orange a rounded walnut character of age and oxidation sitting behind. The palate has fantastic richness and mellow coffee-infused, red fruit freshness. Just beautiful balance, the tawny, nutty marmalade and prune notes against the abundant citrus freshness, fat mouth-filling sweetness and texture, and an endless finish.