(2024) There are tasting notes on just over 20,000 wines in wine-pages database. This wine is only the second to score a maximum 100 points. Why? The wine does not come from a solera, but is believed to be a single vintage wine. It was generously poured by a friend at a fine wine dinner who told me its story. The private cellar in Funchal of the late Gil Borges Acciaioly was inherited by his sons. This wine, finally bottled some time in the 1940s or 50s, is believed to have been stored in sealed glass demi-johns after its long barrel ageing, which will have helped preserve it. It is made from Terrantez and, dating from 223 years ago, becomes the oldest wine I have tasted by some 80 years. The colour is nut brown, and the impression is of such soulful, dark and polished aromas, followed by a palate that sparks into vibrant life, plenty of pin-sharp acidity to complement the aged richness, with literally perfect balance and length. I did not write formal notes - I decided just to enjoy the moment in this surely once in a lifetime experience. The last bottle I can find that was sold at auction fetched £2,600, but that was in 2017. I believe if a bottle appears on the market today, a price of around $20,000 is expected. An extraordinary experience and such a generous sharing of a wine.

(2019) Second time I've been lucky enough to taste this, previously scored 99/100. Lots of complex volatile notes here, depth of walnut and Raisin fruit, amazing concentration yet again, Seville orange and such intense wine. Salty again in the finish, but so long, so deeply concentrated.

(2018) A stunning, stunning dry Madeira, at 60 years old and what a treat to taste one of the world’s great wines with surely another 50 years ahead of it. Shellac and walnut notes lead on to a bone-dry palate of Seville orange that has searing intensity. Oh, for a bowl of salted almonds with this contemplative wine.

(2018) Tasted alongside the Blandy's 1968 vintage Sercial, a bone-dry but absolutely magnificent sister Madeira, this was just stunning at 71 years of age. Nut brown in colour, the nose a soulful, burnished depth of walnut and Seville orange marmalade, toffee and dark Agen prune notes along with spices and tobacco. With just over 100g/l of residual sugar it is sweet without being cloying, with classic Madeira firmness and vitality, magically tangy and bright with electric acidity perfectly balanced against the sumptuous spices and dark, tea-steeped dark fruit flavours. Wines like this almost defy scores and descriptions. What a treat if you can afford it (price for a half bottle).