(2024) From Rutherglen, this was bottled in 1975 but the label states the age of the wine as 'unkown'. Made from 'brown muscat'. The nose moves from grilled meats, to nuttiness, to cedar, to espresso to toffee. All the rancio characters are there, but so is luscious, ripe nectarine, the Muscovado sugar weight and richness is absolutely stunning. Super sweet, long, a bittersweet serious nuance to add to the fresh cut of the acidity. An amazing bit of Australian history drinking so beautifully.

(2023) With an average age of 50 years plus, this is far older than the Rare Muscat classification average requirement of 30 years. All Saints’ unique Museum Muscat and Muscadelle have an average age of over 100 years, testament to their extraordinarily old stock. Dark chocolate, sticky date, salted caramel and burnt fig notes all honed and lifted by high quality neutral spirit. Massive concentration and a seemingly never-ending finish. Superlative. Price for a half bottle. (GD)

(2020) From the 'Rare' category of Rutherglen Muscats, the average age of wines in this blend is 20 years, the vineyards betwen 15 and 50 years old. It matures in a variety of barrel sizes, and has 312g/l of residual sugar. Easily the darkest of the samples here, just a little tawny at the rim, but the glass stained toffee-brown as you swirl the wine. Shellac, polished wood and old crackling varnish, the depth here speaks of the wine's passage of time, not so much of the fruit. The palate is thick as engine oil, like a PX Sherry maybe, fabulous dark Muscavado sugar and raisins, such depth touching on espresso and Seville orange, nutty, and so warming into an endless finish with such intense sweetness.

(2020) Moving on to the class of 'Grand' Muscats, the average age of wines in this blend is 18 years, the vines up to 36 years old. The wines spend time in a variety of barrel sizes, and stay there for between three and 30 years. It has 297/l of residual sugar. The darkest wine so far, but still with amber on the rim. A more subtle, coffee-touched, deep and fudge-like aroma, there is dark vine fruit and polished wood. In the mouth a thick, super-concentrated and intense wine, toast and rum and raisin fudge, Christmas cake fruit and spices, but staying so espresso-dark and toffeed too, it finishes with a blast of lip-smacking citrus acidity.