(2022) With around 7.5g/l of residual sugar but full fruit ripeness and texture, I guess this could be described as being in the 'Alsace style', and bloomin' delicious it is too. From vines planted in 2006 and cropped low, it's a truly aromatic expression of Pinot Gris, honeysuckle and smoky mango swirling with nectarine. On the palate it is weighty and really quite dense, preserved lemon fruit and plenty of sweet, exotic flavours runnning into a fine core of refreshing acidity that extends the finish. It's a beauty, this.

(2022) Hot off the press is this single block 2022 Riesling, made in an approximate 'Kabinnet' style with 18g/l of residual sugar, so certainly off-dry. Very pure lime and lemon sherbet on the nose, but there's a core of green apple too. A hint of beeswax somewhere in there. That sherbetty/lemon sorbet character persists in the mouth, but a whack of acidity means the sweetness is swept away in a mouthwatering rush. The finishes balances fruit, that touches on peachy, with that core of acid and plenty of sweetness.

(2020) Off-dry with 12g/l residual sugar, I can see whay this won the trophy for Gewurztraminer at the Air New Zealand Wine Awards. Proper Gewurztraminer, light lychee and old roses character, plenty of fruit and a hint of Turkish delight. Has the same full Gewurz traits on the palate too, with touch of oiliness to the texture, all the flavour and then a fine acid line.

(2020) This appears under the Cicada label because it is the only wine in this line-up not made from estate-grown fruit. Old roses, peach and a touch of Turkish delight. Very floral and aromatic, full of flavour on the palate, great Gewürztraminer character, loads of fruit and sweet nectarine, and the finish flowing with a gentle but pin-point acidity.

(2020) A little more subdued aromatically compared to the vibrant 2019, a touch of a yeasty character, then more of the florals developing. The palate has more sugar, much more of a Kabinett feel than the 2019, the sweetness set against quite pithy lemon and lime, and a long, clear finish. Price for previous vintage at time of review.

(2017) My first tasting of a Gewurz from Riverby and it is a very good one. Cicada is an occasional brand used by Kevin Courtney when a wine is made from purchased, rather than estate-grown, fruit. This is made in an unashamedly opulent style, all about aromatics, sweetness and full, fat texture in the mouth. Classic aromas of Turkish delight and talcum, rose petal and some waxy exotic fruit peel lead on to a mouth-filling, spicy wine where the expansiveness of the flavour and texture is matched by very good acidity as the spiciness of the variety powers through. A banker for spicy Szechwan or Thai food, maybe even light fruity desserts.