(2019) When I tasted this wine early in 2018, I noted: "an austere reticence that is quite uncommon for a 2005”. One year on, the wine is beginning to build some fruit. Stylistic somewhere between 2004 and 2006. Medium weight, with a bouquet of crunchy red fruits, that picks up some tangerine zest on the back of the palate. This has good potential, although one to bury at the back of the cellar to allow the fruit to build. I wouldn’t broach the first one until 2022, should hold nicely for a decade beyond that. (SP)
(2019) Only my second encounter with this wine since its initial release. So not toasty! The nose delivers an intense blast of banana oil (possibly a consequence of the combined effects of drought and reduced yields). The attack is somewhat gentle, the aromas building through mid-palate. The fruit is super dense, coating the palate with its viscosity. Chewy, powerful, rather potent, an unusually early drinker for a Dom Pérignon release. A strong similarity to the blanc version here, and again, I’d probably wait for the P2 or P3 versions of this wine as extended lees aging should help manage the excesses of the vintage. Drink from 2019 until 2023. (SP)
(2019) The neckband of all of the ‘D’ non-vintage wines states "Aged 5 years," a considerably longer period than most Champagnes, especially rosé wines, that tend to forsake some of the yeasty development in favour of fruitiness. This blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is also a low dosage Brut, with 8g/l of residual sugar. It retains delicacy, though there is a meaty, earthy character with small red fruit notes, a touch of redcurrant, but a shimmering lemony freshness. The palate is driven by the red fruits, but the time on the lees comes through giving this a more complex layering of flavour, some umami and salts, and a lovely acid freshness. An excellent rosé Champagne. Watch the video for more information and food-matching ideas.
(2019) Old vine Pinot Noir from 1er Cru vineyards in Vertus, this is made by bleeding some colour from the Pinot grapes at the start of fermentation. It's Extra Brut, so dry with only around 3g/l of sugar, but ageing for two years on the lees and six more months on the bottle adds richness. Filled with small, taut red fruit aromas - redcurrant and raspberry - it is vinous for sure, the PInot heritage clear as it strikes the palate with real authority: tight, crisp tannins and acids, the little bullets of hard red fruits giving crunch and presence, and the mousse and touch of leesy creaminess softening the picture into a long, crisply-defined finish. Terrific, thought-provoking pink Champagne.
(2017) Beautiful aromas here, a hint of meatiness and damp forest floors, then the small red fruits, very clear indeed, a haunting glimpse of something floral, like rose-hip perhaps in this blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Dry, delicate, but there is good length and it does have substance and a touch of meaty, earthy character beneath the charm of the fruit. Drinking now.
(2017) Richard Geoffroy used the highest ever proportion of red Pinot Noir wine in this blend, 27%, making it a decidedly meaty, Burgundian Champagne, with truffle and forest floor, vinous with red berry fruit. That welterweight of flavour slightly butts up against the acidity at this stage for me, tannins too against grapefruit, suggesting perhaps that a few years in the cellar will do this no harm.
(2014) The Rose is composed of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, with the addition of 7% of red Pinot Noir from Bouzy and Ambonnay in a rosé made by 'assemblage' rather than the skin contact method of 'saignée'. It spends four years on the lees before disgorgement. What a lovely, bold raspberry and softer strawberry fruit it presents on the nose, with a hint of Pinot earthiness and truffle and a little yeasty note. There's a nicely drying nip of tannin on the palate, but lots of Pinot character with truffle and soft red berries, and fine balancing acidity.
(2014) DP rosé is an assemblage rather than a saignée, that is, it is made by adding some red Pinot Noir to the base wine for the blend, and whilst the heat of 2003 was exceptional, Dom Pérignon seem to have embraced it to make a very ripe rosé Champagne. It has a beautiful pale to medium salmon colour. Really fresh and bright, strawberry and raspberry soar from the glass. Notes of the baked apple and vanilla richness of the 2004, are there, but what this majors on is the sweet fruit richness and vinous depth. Layered and yet delicate, there is a meaty substance here too that is Pinot-like, suggesting this would be a great food wine. This style wasn't universally popular on the night, but I really enjoyed it.
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