(2019) The 2004 vintage has all the precision one looks for in the best vintages.  Several years since disgorgement and still so light, primary and fresh.  Supremely understated, yet there is so much complexity underneath the pretty, flowery veneer: cranberries, grapefruit, and a delicate note of raspberry.  All of this is nicely braced by firm acidity.  A classic Dom Pérignon that will age gracefully, slowly building in weight.  Drink from 2021 until 2036. (SP)

(2019) Dom Pérignon has surely delivered two of the best expressions of the 2006 vintage. Lovely nose, the red fruit aromas have moved to the darker end of the spectrum: sour cherry, plum, and reductive smokiness. Superb mouthfeel, so silkily smooth and creamy already.  Dense and chewy, with a lovely sweetness of fruit yet not heavy or clumsy at all.   The signature toastiness is already present: I find some coffee and walnut tones on the mid-palate, slightly forward but not fully resolved.  The finish is rather strict, bitterness from undeveloped, dry extract suggesting a bright future ahead. If you can keep your hands off it, drink this from 2021 until 2036. (SP)

(2017) The Dom Ruinart Rosé is a blend of 80% Chardonnay with a very high proportion - 20% - of Pinot Noir vinified as a red wine in the blend. It is extremely toasty (surely there's some barrel fermentation here?) with a wonderfully expressive, autumnal Pinot quality of small red fruits and truffle. On the palate the serious, toasty and earthy structure continues to express itself, with great concentration, a persistent mousse and a thrust of lemon-fresh acidity as the Chardonnay dominates. I loved this, and most of the tasters were just as convinced.