(2018) I’m not usually a fan of low dosage Champagne (I find many of them severe and unbalanced), but the longer lees aging in combination with the reserve wine provide us with a fine example of the genre. Fresh and bracing, citrus, spicy, and honeyed with fine acidity. Smooth, well balanced on the mid-palate, the lack of dosage is only felt in the slightly clipped finish, but an excellent wine in this style. Drink upon release.
(2018) There is 35% of reserve wines in this cuvée, and a dosage of 9g/l. Quite a developed yeastiness, with lots of russet apple, nutty and juiciness, but then white flower and nettle. Very delicate, a gentle mousse, with lovely orangey acidity and fruit freshness, very crisp and tapering. Whilst dry, not austere.
(2018) Made from a 2014 base plus reserve wines from 2012 and 2013, 15% of the Chardonnay comes from Chouilly and Oiry, 85% from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. Fermented in stainless steel with a dosage of 7 g/l. Flowery finesse, poised stone fruits, and a long, shimmering sensation of chalk. What's not to like? Drink: 2019-2022 with a potential to acheive 91/100.
(2017) Partially vinified in oak barrels and blended from 12 hectares of organically certified and cultivated vineyards, this new cuvée is 42% Chardonnay, 36% Pinot Meunier and 21% Pinot Noir with less than 6g/l dosage. It's a fresh and lightweight style, though almost four years on the lees has added some nuttiness and brioche character. But free-flowing and elegant on the palate, it's crisp, lemony and finishes with a lick of pleasing salinity.
(2017) A grower family, bottling their own wines for and based in the Grand Cru village of Verzy, this is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, with 8g/l of dosage. Bottled in April 2014 I am presuming it is a 2013 base, with one third of the blend reserve wines. It was disgorged on 8th April 2016. It has a taut, fresh nose, with a little biscuity richness just showing through, some herbal touches too. Lots of fruit ripeness on the palate, the mousse quite firm, and a clean, incisive palate, pristine fruit with not too much development, and a racing fresh finish.
(2016) Note that the price is for a magnum (two bottles equivalent) of Moët & Chandon's non-vintage Brut, though the price does reflect seasonal Champagne discounting - on average it's nearer to £60-£70. Magnums always feel so good, as does this with its biscuity but bright and elegant nose, and raft of apple fruit moving through to a per, lemony finish that's also très easy to drink. A brilliant superior party stand-out.
(2015) The dosage here is just 2g/l, though otherwise this cuvée is exactly the same blend and winemaking as the regular ‘D’ Brut. Certainly it is noticeably drier, mineral and salty. A wonderfully fresh and direct gastronomic style. Very focused, clean and pure, and although I do slightly prefer the little extra generosity in the Brut for sipping on this occassion, it’s a beautifully composed wine.
(2015) For the first time there is a little oak, with around 5% of this cuvée fermented in small barrels. It includes a high proportion of reserve wine at around 40%, and has 8g/l dosage. It’s made from around 60% Pinot Noir with Chardonnay. Lovely development, though I forgot to ask when this was disgorged, but a fine and gentle almond nuttiness and, as always with this range, a delightful core of lemon and mineral salt acidity and purity.
(2014) With its pale, lemony gold colour and steady stream of bubbles, the Blanc de Blancs has 5% Pinot Blanc blended with Chardonnay. The nose offers yeasty bruised apple notes, a touch of russet apple cider. In the mouth this has an inherent feeling of sweetness, and is fairly rich for a Blanc de Blancs, but the dosage is a modest 8g/l so that impression is coming from ripe fruit. It is not so racy and elegantly refined as some Blanc de Blancs Champagnes, but is has an open, robust and exuberant personality.
(2014) Sourced from three crus which, according to Vianney work together: "Le Mesnil-sur-Oger for fruit and warmth, Avize for floral character and Cramant as the great unifier." It has a bright, green apple freshness, a very appealing a racy palate with apple and lemon at the core, but not without a little biscuity development and richness too. Four years on the lees has given a broader base to ultra-sharp flavours.