(2019) The dosage here is 6gl, in a wine disgorged in March 2018. Fully mature (perhaps overly so). Honey, apricots, dried fruit, and oxidative spiciness are the themes here, and I certainly wouldn’t age it further. Instead, enjoy the evolved nature of the bouquet by pairing with food. Drink upon release. £622 (case of six), Crump, Richmond & Shaw.
(2018) In 2013 the blend was 30% old vines Pinot Noir from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ (parcels: Faubourg D'enfer, Croix Blanche, Pruche), 25% Pinot Noir from Aÿ (parcels: Cheuzelles, Pierre Robert, Le Leon), 35% old vines Chardonnay from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ (parcels: Beauregard, Ramonette, Buisson Saint Loup) and 10% Chardonnay from Oiry and Chouilly. Fermented in stainless steel from the coeur de cuvée, with a dosage of 6.5 g/l. On paper, this vintage was similar to 2012, with a combination of high acidity and high potential alcohol. However, unlike the previous vintage, flowering was much later, leading to a late September and early October harvest. Cuvées from this year possess a minerality, freshness, and coolness of fruit that reminds me of 2008. The Hebrart 2013 Special Club is especially fine, with its throttled back aromatics and desirable austerity. This Champagne will certainly take a while to show its hand, but I have no doubts that given time, it will give the 2012 a run for its money and possibly earn a score of 94/100 too. Drink: 2024-2032.
(2017) Though their prestige cuvée, Belle Epoque, is also an all-Chardonnay wine, a non-vintage Blanc de Blancs is a new addition to Perrier-Jouët's repertoire as of summer 2017. Cellarmaster Hervé Deschamps selected his most elegant and floral Chardonnays for this blend, and it certainly fulfills its brief. From its clear glass bottle the wine pours a very pale colour and opens with fresh, bright floral and summery aromas, a subtle biscuit character, but much more focused on light fruitiness. In the mouth the mousse is crisp and the fruit clean and snappy, an elegant acid framework around cool, quite vivacious fruit. It's a lovely wine and no doubt precisely what Perrier-Jouët intended, but I have to say it feels just a little too simple at its price.
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