(2019) Delightful, pale lemon/straw colour. Chardonnay-dominant, refined mousse, light, blossom and gently biscuity nose, with lemon and pear. The palate also shows that little biscuity, creamy richness, such sweet and ripe fruit, lemon and peach, then a very fine, fresh finish with precise acidity to give some backbone. Dosage is 6.5g/l.

(2015) Our fourth straight Chardonnay wine, also a Satèn, this time from 2009. Around 40% of the blend is fermented and aged in small oak barrels, and it spends a full 40 months on the lees. The dosage is 7.5g/l and the alcohol is 13.5%. More herbaceous, with more of a bruised apple character, a touch of smoke and minerals too. Juicy and taut on the palate, the mineral complexity shines here, layering of gentle toast and smoke and a bittersweet grapefruit pith finish.

(2014) All Chardonnay, this cuvée is sold through BBR in the UK. No dosage, so less than 1g/l sugar, bottled under lower pressure. Nice cream and vanilla touches, but also nettle and delicate flowers and herbs, with those subtle complexities showing beautifully. The palate has real intensity: given that there is no sugar, it has an intense inherent sweetness and attack: a big grapefruity thrust of acidity, the sourness biting into the finish as a lovely counterpoint and an intensely dry finish. A fascinating style, very dry and authoritative, but it shimmers with edgy freshness and acidity in the finish.