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(2023) >p>Made from Muscat de Frontignan, Vin de Constance is a recreation of an iconic wine from the 1700s, said to be a favourite of Napoleon. The winemaking team used historical information to produce as close a copy as possible - even down to the bottle. From a year that produced small, concentrated berries, no fewer than 26 passes through the vineyard were made to select grapes ranging from high acidity, to raisined berries. Each pass was vinified separately and aged for 18 months in 50% new oak barrels, then a further 18 months in large format foudres. It's a fully sweet and luscious wine with 166g/l of residual sugar. It has all the gossamer-light aromatics of Muscat, floral and gently herbal, but opulence too, the fruit running from mango to pineapple. In the mouth a swathe of orange acidity cuts through the luscious flavours, buttery and rich enough, but always feather light. Price for 50cl. There are a lot stockists with prices ranging from £59 to £75, so use the wine-searcher link. Watch the video for more information.

Also recommended: the Disznókö Late Harvest Tokaji 2020. Cheapest price I can see currently is Master of Malt at £16.95, but use wine-searcher to find a lot more stockists.

Residual sugar is 172g/l here. Just gorgeous on the nose, the depth of the bouquet from the bush-vine Muscat, the heavy florals, sumptuous exotic Sandalwood and and lychee and marmalade. Heavenly perfume. Botrytis is deliberately avoided if at all possible, as only late-harvest grapes are desired. The palate has great silky richness, thick texture and nectarine, such lovely freshness and acidity, again that lick of saltiness adding to that clarity.
There are 160g/l of sugar here, and the deeper colour is matched by slightly deeper aromas, still so much florals, a little bit of a leafy herbal character, but the underpinning of stone fruit juiciness is fabulous. The palate has also developed a toffee note of creaminess, trading that against the 2015's vibrancy, but it makes for a hugely overwhelming sensory experience, flavour, texture, the aroma each time you lift the glass to our nose. Fabulous.
(2016) Light golden toffee colour with such a clear, fruit and glacé orange nose, the gentle tobacco and toast, then a limpid, shimmering palate. Retains so much honey and limpidity into a long glorious finish. With 130g/l I find this the most elegant vintage so far tasted.
(2016) Slightly more sherried and gently oxidised than the 1987, with currants and raisins and such lovely orange rind fullness and grippy acids. Really searing and long acid finish gives this fabulous balance and clarity. Not available retail.
(2016) Wonderful lifted aromas, in a blend of honey and raisins in this wine from only the second vintage made in the modern era. The palate has delicate toffee and such pure sweetness, then a mocha touch of richness comes through. So long, gently nutty but always sweet. Superb. This had less than 80g/l of residual sugar, whereas today the wine typically will have 160g/l or more. Not available retail.
Displaying results 0 - 6 of 6