(2024) Redolent of acacia honey, this is fabulous stuff with 156g/l of residual sugar. A blend of 56% Furmint and 44% Hárslevelü, it spent two years in barriques, 25% of which were new. Such glycerine-rich aromas blending barley sugar and orange with vanilla and the dry, smoky, leaf-tea character of the Botrytis. In the mouth it is unctuous and rich without being too thick, and the core of shimmering lemon acidity that runs like a spine into the long, tapering, sweet peaches and cream finish is fabulous.

(2023) This has 203g/l of residual sugar. One of the company’s small production special ‘By Appointment’ labels that are single varietals rather than blends. In this case, the lesser known Kabar grape is used. Authorised in the Tokaj region since 2006, it is low-yielding, can reach high sugar levels and is prone to the noble form of botrytis. It is also high in acidity. Linden-blossom honey and tart lime notes. Not in UK (GD)

(2017) An exceptionally fine Tokaji this, last tasted by me at the winery back in 2011, and now absolutely singing with clear notes of honey, glycerine, tea and bergamot, deep notes of coffee and high notes of white flowers. In the mouth luscious and sweet, the tang of Seville orange marmalade, but a shimmering, silky acidity and energy gives wonderful balance as it flows across the tongue. An absolute treat now, but will age for decades. Price is for 50cl. For more information and food matching ideas, please watch the video.

(2012) With 132g/l of residual sugar (and a beautifully balancing 7.2g/l of total acidity) this is a fully sweet dessert wine, but one that retains the elegance that is typical of the Disznókö estate too. Vanilla and custard from new oak ageing are still apparent, but so too is a welter-weight of creamy, full and ripe fruit; pear, peach and citrus. On the palate the silky weight of honey is gorgeous, with toffee and cream, a butterscotch richness and lots of that tea and tobacco character. As always the acidity is delightful; burnt orange and a touch of grapefruit, and huge finish showing spice and delicious lushness, but poise.