(2024) It may come as a surprise to learn that Germany is now the world's third biggest producer of Pinot Noir, aka Spätburgunder, the variety now accounting for around 12% of Germany's vineyard area. This from the cousins Hanewald-Schwerdt is made from 30-year-old vines grown on their patch of limestone soil. Fermented with natural yeasts in large oak casks, it then spends time in smaller barriques, 20% of which are new. Medium garnet in colour, this has beautiful fragrance, with red berries and a juicy, ripe cherry, also a little floral lift. But there are all sorts of nuances, with some truffle and smokiness, briary, autumnal characters developing. In the mouth quite substantial and meaty, delivering a spicy but still pure, red fruited glass of Pinot of excellent character for its modest price. The finish is smoothed by a little vanilla, ripe tannin and a juicy orange acidity. Watch the video
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