2004 Alsace. Wine performance group 3


Since Pinot Blanc was not a category I specifically requested, just two such wines were sent up to my CIVA tasting. I’m not quite sure why the one from Clément Lissner was submitted, but the reason for the Dirler-Cadé was because it is a Pinot Noir that has been vinified white, and cask-fermented. The only pity is that it was not more exciting.

For those who are not aware, it should be explained that whilst all Alsace varietal wines must consist 100% of the grape indicated on the label, there is no Pinot Blanc designation as such, only Pinot, and this may be composed in part or whole of any authorised Pinot variety (i.e., Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Auxerrois).


Alsace Pinot Noir Vinifié En Barrique En Jus Blanc 2002 Dirler-Cade (€9)
Spoilt by caramel aromas (malolactic).

Pinot Auxerrois

Technically these wines come under the Pinot designation, but any Alsace wine that is labelled, specifically, Pinot Auxerrois or Auxerrois should be 100% Auxerrois. This is a fatter, spicier grape than the Pinot Blanc, and has traditionally been blended with the latter to produce a better balanced Pinot wine, with a distinct inclination for producers south of Colmar to use more Pinot Blanc in the blend, while those further north use more Auxerrois. Get up as far as Cléebourg and the Auxerrois in its pure form can display an astonishing amount of finesse for what is often thought of as a fat and blowzy variety. Grow Auxerrois on the warmest sites in Alsace, and it would indeed be fat and blowzy.


Alsace Pinot Auxerrois L’instant Rare D’emile 1998 Beyer Emile (€25.50)
Deep, old-gold colour. Bright. An extraordinary wine for its variety, and scored as such, but in pure quality terms, it is too fat and a touch cloying.


Alsace Pinot Auxerrois De Traenheim Vieilles Vignes 2002 Muller Charles Et Fils (€6.50)
Lovely, fresh Auxerrois fruit, with very good acidity, and potential for short-term development (2-3 years).


Alsace Pinot Auxerrois Les Murets 2002 Becht Pierre Et Frederic (€8.50)
Rich, tangy, but somewhat elevated, medium-dry to medium-sweet fruit.


Alsace Pinot Auxerrois Botrytis Barrique 1999 Loew Etienne(€15)
Apricot-skin aromas permeating through rich fruit, but lacks finesse.

Pinot Gris

It has always puzzled why Alsace Pinot Gris is so full-bodied, powerfully spicy, with excellent acidity, whereas (supposedly) the same variety grown elsewhere produces a much lighter bodied, distinctly soft wine devoid of spice. Either it’s a massive conspiracy whereby ever producer presses Pinot Gris immediately after the Gewürztraminer, or it is not the same variety at all. Or, at the very least, it is an entirely different clone.

But no, apparently the rest of the world not only has the same variety, but also has the same clones (146 and 152). Yet, grown elsewhere, Pinot Gris is closer to Pinot Grigio (a.k.a. Pinot Gris), which is fresh, light and soft than the true varietal character of Pinot Gris. And that includes the areas where this variety has built up some sort of reputation, such as New Zealand and Oregon. They might be a bit more “serious”, firmer and slightly more alcoholic version of Pinot Grigio, but they are closer to that template, and nothing like Alsace Pinot Gris. There is no spice – despite winemakers’ fantasy tasting notes.

For those wondering when the historical Tokay name will be phased out, this is due to happen by the end of 2006.


Alsace Grand Cru Gloeckelberg Tokay Pinot Gris SGN 2001 Koeberle-Kreyer (€34)
Soil: granite argilifié. The best Pinot Gris SGN I have tasted in many a year, and relatively inexpensive too, given the quality. Fresh, concentrated, lemony-citrus aromas, with beautifully fresh, exquisitely acidulated fruit on the finish. Very sweet.


Alsace Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl 2002 Zind-Humbrecht (€42)
Beautiful crystallised fruits nose and palate. Very pure and fresh. Quite sweet.
See all Zind-Humbrecht Windsbuhl stockists on wine-searcher.com.


Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris “Barrique” 2001 Zink Pierre Paul (€25.30)
Oaky Pinot Gris! This is a very serious, very sweet wine, with classy oak on the finish, and toasty, crystallised apples, pears and pineapples on the aftertaste. Alsace meets Sauternes-and wins! Stunning.


Alsace Grand Cru Rosacker Pinot Gris 2002 Cave Vinicole De Hunawihr Et Environs (€9.65)
Soil: calcaire dolomitique. A beautifully fresh, sweet and succulent Pinot Gris produced from vines just a spitting distance away from Trimbach’s famous Clos Ste. Hune. So pure, with vibrant acidity, and a hint of used oak on the finish. Very sweet for claimed 13.5g/l residual sugar (according to my Clinitest it was over 20g/l), but there is no doubting this is a wine of real class. And what a bargain!

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Stoffel Antoine (€6.10)
Textbook Pinot Gris with beautifully elegant, (effectively) dry fruit and perfect balancing acidity. Crisp, clean and satisfying.


Alsace Grand Cru Froehn Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Becker J.Phil. & Francois (€13.60)
Soil: argilo-marneux. Crystal-clear focus. Very rich, very sweet. Needs at least 5 years.

Alsace Pinot Gris 2002 Meyer Alfred Et Fils (€7.80)
If you want to know what great Pinot Gris smells like when just 12 months old, then take a sniff of this. It’s not spice per se, it’s all potential, but once the potential spice template is grasped, you will never forget. Instantly identifiable. This also happens to be extraordinarily good value.

Alsace Grand Cru Altenberg De Bergheim Tokay Pinot Gris SGN 2001 Freyburger Louis Et Fils Sarl (€30)
Soil: marno-calcaire. Wonderfully clean, crisp, concentrated fruit. Intensely sweet.

Alsace Grand Cru Furstentum Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Mann Albert (€16)
Soil: calcaire. Very distinctive, citrus-cum-Lucozade aroma (and it’s much better than this sounds!); zesty-citrus fruits on palate. A splendid if somewhat whacky Pinot Gris. Definitely sweet.

Alsace Grand Cru Furstentum Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Blanck Paul Et Fils (€15.30)
Soil: granitique. Lovely acids. This should be left somewhere cool and dark for 5 years.


Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Au Puits Des Moines 2002 Allimant-Laugner (€9.50)
Elegant yet remarkably concentrated fruit. Huge amount of sugar (40g/l) for a non-VT wine, and definitely very sweet, yet impeccably balanced. Fresh, vital.


Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Kientzler Andre (€8)
A totally dry Pinot Gris that needs at least three years to build-up spicy bottle-aromas. Excellent structure and acid.

Alsace Grand Cru Brand Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Boxler Albert (€18)
Soil: granitique. Concentrated fruit. Real VT level, even if not so classified. Very rich, very sweet. Crystallised pears and apples.
See all Boxler TPG Brand stockists on wine-searcher.com.

Alsace Grand Cru Florimont Pinot Gris 2002 Sorg Bruno (€12)
Soil: marno-calcaire. Very sweet, very clean, rich and tangy. Might not develop much spice, but a lovely wine nonetheless. Distinctly sweet.


Alsace Pinot Gris SGN 2000 Sipp Louis (€44)
Excellent medium-weight Pinot Gris SGN in a very sweet, but not intensely sweet style that should one day achieve a certain spiciness.

Alsace Pinot Gris 2002 Trimbach
This is a very early developing Pinot Gris that is already delicious to drink. When in the mouth, the wine creates a tingling sensation at the back of the tongue, on both sides. This is an indication of further spice developing, so although an early drinking wine, it is also offers medium-term longevity.

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Vieilles Vignes 2002 Klur Clement (€8.40)
So young, fresh and vital that it has yet to establish its identity, although the quality is unmistakable. Sweet.

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Schoffit (€9)
Lemony-leather aromas; great depth and richness, but needs at least 4 years. Distinctly sweet.


Alsace Grand Cru Mambourg Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Cave Vinicole Jean Geiler (€9.20)
Soil: marno-calcaire. Leather and apricot aromas followed by rich, sweet apricot fruit.

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris “Ancestrum” 2001 Cave Vinicole Pfaffenheim-Gueberschwihr (€15)
Fresh, rich and tasty. Will develop in a more fruity, less spicy, style.

Alsace Grand Cru Sommerberg Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Kuehn (€9.80)
Soil: granitique. Secondary aromas dominating. Needs time to settle in bottle. Sweet, vanilla-apricot fruit on palate.

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Lieu-Dit Letzenberg 2002 Schoech Albert (€6.50)
Nose and palate promise spicy bottle-aromas in 3 years or so. Quite full-bodied fruit, medium-sweet to sweet. Good food wine.

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Rosenberg 2002 Stentz Andre (€8.60)
Remarkably light and elegant, tangy fruit. Sweet.

Alsace Pinot Gris Clos Du Letzenberg 2002 Domaine Du Manoir-Thomann Marina (€7)
Youthful, banana-grape-skin aromas. Very rich and sweet, with no shortage of freshness and elegance. Needs 5 years at least.

Alsace Pinot Gris Réserve 2002 Jux (€5.80)
Youthful grape-skin aromas explain, perhaps, why this wine has a hollow front-to-middle palate. The richness comes only towards the end, and it’s sweet, fresh and elegantly fruity.

Alsace Pinot Gris 2002 Mader Jean-Luc (€6)
Good, easy-drinking Pinot Gris in an off-dry style. Should gain some spice over the next couple of years.

Alsace Pinot Gris 2002 Scherb Louis Et Fils (€5.60)
1st bottle: corked. 2nd bottle: clean, with elegantly rich medium-weight fruit that promises to gain some spicy bottle-aromas in the next 2-3 years.

alsace pinot gris vieilles vignes 2002 schwartz j.l. (€6.50)
Very fresh, grape-skin nose promising spicy bottle-aromas in a year or two. Really quite sweet. Ideal with foie-gras.

Alsace Pinot Gris 2002 Zusslin Valentin Et Fils (€7.50)
Potentially fresh, light, elegant, medium-sweet Pinot Gris that will start building spicy bottle-aromas after 2-3 years.

Alsace Pinot Gris Clos Des Récollets 2001 Albrecht Lucien (€25)
Pale for a Pinot Gris, yet really quite sweet and definitely has some botrytis. Aftertaste pretty dominant, but needs a couple of years to build and come together.


Alsace Pinot Gris 2002 Kuhlmann Frederic (€6)
1st bottle: corked. 2nd bottle: clean, with the potential to develop mellow-spicy bottle-aromas over the next 3-4 years. Nice acidity. Not as sweet as its 15g/l residual sugar might suggest.

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Hinterburg De Katzenthal 2002 Meyer-Fonne (€11.20)
You might like the butterscotch-fruit in this and other Pinot Gris wines that have obviously gone through malolactic, but the diacetyl produced by the malolactic should not be so obvious that it ends up like butterscotch. Whilst this wine might be rich and fresh, with elegant fruit on the palate, it could have been a hell of a lot better.

Alsace Grand Cru Steinert Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Moltes (€9.80)
Soil: calcaire. Lovely youthfully rich and tangy Pinot Gris fruit on the palate, but the nose needs a few years to focus. Sweet.


Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Letzenberg 2002 Adam J-B (€13.50)
Passerillage fruit, but balance could be better.

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Sigille VT 1997 Stoffel Antoine (€16.80)
Tinned lychees (yep, this is correct – it’s a Pinot Gris with a classic Gewurztraminer characteristic). Very sweet. Acidity could be higher (it’s closer to typical Gewurztraminer level!).


Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Brobecker (€5.80)
Grape-skin aromas promising spicy bottle-aromas, sweetish fruit, touch of leather on the finish, with malolactic creeping up on the aftertaste (probably only noticeable when tasting blind in peer group).

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Réserve Personnelle 2002 Buecher-Fix (€6.30)
Big chunk of sulphur on the nose (presumably, at this time of the year, due to recent bottling), but good fruit and acidity underneath. Should go toasty-spicy in 2-3 years.

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Bollenberg 2002 Chateau D’orschwihr (€7.30)
Rich and solid. Needs time to evolve, but will always be rugged rather than elegant.

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Klingenfus Robert (€6)
Good, basic (effectively) dry Pinot Gris.

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Cuvée Alexandra 2002 Mauler Jean-Paul (€7.20)
Leather-grape-skin aromas. Very rich. Could be finer-tuned, better-focused.

alsace grand cru rangen tokay pinot gris clos st theobald sgn 2001 schoffit (€99)
Soil: volcanique. This must be Alsace’s answer to German’s TBAs. Not so much because of its deep gold colour, as its viscosity. This wine goes down the neck like Castrol GTX!

Alsace Pinot Gris Le Fromenteau 2002 Josmeyer & Fils Sa (€13.50)
Pinot Gris with coffee grinds! Dry. I should perhaps reserve my judgement on such an oddity, but scored according to how it drinks now.

Alsace Pinot Gris Rosenbourg 2002 Schaetzel Martin (€11.70)
Very sweet with a hole mid-palate and a cliff on the finish! Might well develop, but score is based on today’s tasting.

Alsace Pinot Gris 2002 Schneider Gerard Et Fils (€5.30)
Sweet tinned mandarins. Ready-drinking, with short-term potential.

Alsace Pinot Gris 2002 Schwartz Christian (€6)
Sweet, youthful Pinot Gris fruit with a hint of liquorice. Very smooth. Medium sweet.

Alsace Grand Cru Mambourg Pinot Gris 2002 Sparr Pierre Et Ses Fils (€13)
Although you can taste the very good, VT level of Pinot Gris fruit this was made from, the freshness and vitality has been compromised by malolactic.


Alsace Pinot Gris Rosenberg 2002 Barmes-Buecher (€13)
Lacks freshness on the nose and a niggling suspicion that “high” rape seed aromas might be building on the finish.


Alsace Pinot Gris Breiterberg 2002 Haag Jean-Marie (€10.50)
An unfocused sweet wine.

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Cave Vinicole De Ribeauville Et Environs (€6.49)
1st bottle: polythene and chemicals! 2nd bottle: clean, but rather ordinary Pinot Gris fruit. Lacks finesse.

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Klee Freres
An effectively dry Pinot Gris, but just does not have the crispness, freshness and focus.


Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Stierkopf 2002 Becht Pierre Et Frederic (€6.10)
Leather on nose, sweet and simple fruit on palate.


Alsace Pinot Gris Vignoble De Bennwihr 2002 Fonne Michel (€6.50)
A touch lactic on the finish.

Alsace Pinot Gris Rebberg 2002 Kreydenweiss Marc (€20)
Spoilt by malo aromas.


Alsace Pinot Gris Cuvée Laure VT 2000 Schlumberger (€31)
Spoilt by a touch malolactic on the finish.


Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Les Maquisards 2002 Dopff-Irion (€9.95)
Not exactly fresh and vital.


Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Schwenckel 2002 Baumann-Zirgel (€8.60)
Spoilt by malolactic.

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Château Isenbourg 2002 Chateaux & Terroirs (€11.45)
Lacks freshness on nose and finesse on palate. Off-dry.

Alsace Tokay Pinot Gris Cuvée Singulière 2000 Hausherr Hubert Et Heidi (€16)
Yet more rape seed

Alsace Grand Cru Zinnkoepfle Tokay Pinot Gris 2002 Hertz Albert
Soil: calcaro-gréseux. Spoilt by malolactic.


Alsace Grand Cru Gloeckelberg Pinot Gris VT 1996 Koehly Charles Et fils (€15.50)
Soil: granite argilifié. Golden yellow colour. Alien, off-putting smell of paint, chemicals or something of that nature.

Pinot Noir

During my April trip to Alsace, I tasted 30-odd Pinot Noirs, most of which were unsatisfactory (over-extracted, too tannic, too oaky etc). The best by far was Marcel Deiss 2000 Pinot Noir Burlenberg (€25.00), while the second best, by quite a margin (although still very nice and a relative bargain, especially from this producer) was Domaine Weinbach 2001 Pinot Noir Réserve (€13.50), closely followed by the most commercial of all, Hugel 2001 Jubilée Pinot Noir (€21.08). And that was about it.

Maybe another four or five were delightful on the nose, but did not live up to the promise on the palate. I therefore expressed my disappointment, hoping for a better showing in November, but again most were sub-standard. Why is it that although both Alsace and Germany started at the same time (mid-eighties) to develop Pinot Noir as a serious red wine style (as opposed to rosé), only Germany has succeeded? The cadre of top-performing Pinot Noir producers includes the likes of Deutzerhof, Kreuzberg, Huber, Johner, Knipser, Philipp Kuhn, Bernhart, Fürst, August Kesseler, and Aldinger, yet the only Alsace producer who would not be shown up in such company is Deiss, and the very best of Hugel’s wines.


Alsace Pinot Noir Burlenberg 2000 Deiss Marcel (€28)
Deep colour, medium-full body. Distinctly oaky, yet definitely superior Pinot Noir, with grippy, almost puckering tannins, yet bags of big, serious Pinot Noir fruit. Has finesses and is potentially complex. Should age beautifully.


Alsace “Jubilee” Pinot Noir Le Neveux 2002 Hugel
Only the fourth vintage made since 1990, Le Neveux is a barrique-fermented Pinot Noir from a climat or single-plot, and represents something of a statement by the next generation (Marc, Etienne & Jean-Philippe). A cask sample of 2003, which was harvested at 13% ABV, had an opaque purple colour, rich fruit and big tannins. I would need to retaste this when it has been bottled, but it could well turn out to be better than the inaugural 1990 vintage and, who knows, maybe even Deiss’s Burlenberg …


Alsace “Jubilee” Pinot Noir Le Neveux 1990 Hugel
Wonderful fruit, with none of the gaminess that can affect some Hugel Pinot Noir, particularly the older vintages. Bright Pinot fruit on the palate, with menthol complexity building on the finish.


Alsace “Jubilee” Pinot Noir 2001 Hugel (€21.08)
Beautiful Pinot Noir aromas (quite Burgundian, almost Santenay-like), with lovely fruit on the palate, deftly balanced by nice dry tannins. The finish is not big, but it does have a certain voluptuousness.


Alsace “Jubilee” Pinot Noir Le Neveux 2000 Hugel
The Pinot Noir fruit is broader than in Le Neveux 2001, with some fat, less complexity and finesse.


Alsace Pinot Noir Les Tonnelles 2001 Dopff-Irion (€10.55)
Medium body and colour. Strawberry Pinot fruit, which is unusual for Alsace. A nice wine made from truly ripe Pinot Noir grapes, but could do with some complexity and more finesse?

Alsace Pinot Noir Cuvée Du Chat Noir 2002 Hering Domaine (€9.50)
Light-medium body and colour. Creamy-oaky Pinot Noir. Elegant. Quite fine, but not complex.

Alsace Pinot Noir 2001 Hugel (€9.22)
This vintage of Hugel’s standard, entry-level Pinot Noir promises well, with its ripe, sweet varietal aromas, and elegant, medium-bodied weight.

Alsace “Jubilee” Pinot Noir 1990 Hugel
Lovely fruit, but there is a gaminess that reduces the score.

Alsace Pinot Noir 2002 Lissner Clement (€4.80)
Medium-full body and colour. Serious Pinot Noir fruit, nice acid-tannin structure, needs 3-4 years.


Alsace Pinot Noir 2000 Weber Odile Et Danielle (€6.40)
Medium body and colour. Menthol-touched Pinot Noir fruit. Some complexity. Not herbaceous.


Alsace “Jubilee” Pinot Noir 1998 Hugel (€18.69)
Firm and vital, with a mellow finish, but the tannins will outlive the fruit.

Alsace Pinot Noir Rouge De St Léonard 2001 Hummel Bernard Et Filles (€7)
Medium body and colour. Good Pinot fruit, nice grippy tannins.

Alsace Pinot Noir 2000 Stentz Andre (€7.50)
Medium body and colour. Some serious Pinot Noir fruit, good tannins on finish.


alsace pinot noir le pn de jean-baptiste adam 2001 adam j-b (€14)
Medium body and colour. Good varietal fruit, smooth finish.

Alsace Pinot Noir 2000 Hugel
Full, gamey notes mixing with Pinot Noir aromas, with some menthol finesse developing on the finish. Not yet released.

Alsace Pinot Noir Fût De Chêne 2001 Humbrecht Georges Et Claude (€7)
Light-medium body and colour. Good fruit and nice varietal character.


Alsace Pinot Noir 2002 Bohn Francois (€6.10)
Light-medium body and colour. Pure Pinot Noir, elegant, some tannins, but not complex.

Alsace Pinot Noir Westerberg 2002 Einhart (€5.81)
Full-on rose colour. Very herbaceous nose and palate. The world’s first pink Sauvignon Blanc? Refreshing rose as a drink, but not Pinot Noir.

Alsace Pinot Noir Cuvée Fernand 2001 Engel Fernand Et Fils (€8.70)
Medium-full body and colour. Very fruity aromas, with perfumed fruit on palate, and a creamy aftertaste to balance nice, grippy tannins. Has some Pinot Noir character, and not bad as a red wine, but could have more varietal typicity.

Alsace “Jubilee” Pinot Noir 1985 Hugel
The first vintage of Pinot Noir produced exclusively from Hugel’s own vineyards is very soft, and past its best.

Alsace Pinot Noir Rouge De St Léonard / Vin Issu De Raisins De Culture Biologique 2002 Hummel Bernard Et Filles (€7.80)
Medium body and colour. Herbaceous nose, good, Pinot fruit on palate; creamy finish balances tannins.

Alsace Pinot Noir 2002 Muller Charles Et Fils (€6.80)
Medium body and colour. Good fruit, nice acidity, some varietal typicity.

Alsace Pinot Noir 2000 Stentz Aime Et Fils (€6.40)
A somewhat herbaceous Pinot Noir made in a refreshing, fruity clairet/rose style. Tastes like 50/50 Pinot Noir/Sauvignon Blanc! For drinking slightly chilled in a café on a sunny day.

Alsace Pinot Noir Rouge D’ottrott 2002 Vonville Jean Charles (€9.80)
Light-medium body and colour. Everything you could hope to expect from a red Pinot d’Alsace 15 years ago: good Pinot Noir fruit, but rather simplistic.

Alsace “Jubilee” Pinot Noir 1983 Hugel
Made entirely from purchased fruit, the 1983 “Jubilée” has very mature Pinot fruit, with a dry finish.


Alsace “Jubilee” Pinot Noir 1999 Hugel (€21.08)

Alsace “Jubilee” Pinot Noir 1996 Hugel
No 1996 stink, but the gamey Pinot aromas make the wine somewhat rustic.


Alsace Pinot Noir Rosé De Marlenheim 2002 Fritsch Romain (€4.50)
Simple rose style. Not much varietal character, but pleasant enough.

Alsace “Jubilee” Pinot Noir 1993 Hugel
Gamey-mature Pinot fruit, with a dry finish.

Alsace Pinot Noir 2002 Klee Freres
Light-medium body and colour. Some Pinot Noir fruit.

Alsace Pinot Noir 2002 Hugel
Hugel’s entry-level Pinot Noir is made entirely from purchased fruit (mostly from Gueberschwihr and Rouffach), but since 1999 Hugel has contracted to buy twice the amount of grapes it requires so that it can increase quality through selection. Also since 1999, a small proportion has been vinified in oak. Unfortunately neither of these measures has had much beneficial effect on this light-bodied, high-acid wine, which has more in common with Gamay (and Gamay grown on the wrong soil, at that), than Pinot Noir.

Alsace “Jubilee” Pinot Noir 1997 Hugel
Starting to go over on the nose.

alsace pinot noir vieilles vignes 2002 schwartz christian (€7.40)
Medium body and colour. Aldehydic, coconut-oaky red. Alsace meets Rioja!

Alsace Pinot Noir 2002 Stentz Fernand (€6.50)
Light-medium body and colour. More red wine than Pinot Noir. Dry finish hides fruit.

Alsace Pinot Noir Rouge D’ottrott 2001 Vonville Jean Charles (€8.50)
Medium body and colour. Menthol-herbaceousness on nose translates as austere fruit on palate.

Alsace Pinot Noir 1997 Zink Pierre Paul (€6.25)
Over-ambitious, aldehydic, lacks fruit.


Alsace Pinot Noir 2002 Koeberle Kreyer (€7.20)
Light-medium body and colour. More basic red wine than Pinot Noir.

Alsace Pinot Noir Hahnenberg Barriques 2001 Koehly Jean-Marie (€7.30)
Aldehydic-oaky with puckering fruit.

Alsace Pinot Noir 2002 Schneider Gerard Et Fils (€5)
Medium body and colour. Some Pinot fruit, but could be fresher.

Alsace Pinot Noir “Granite” 2001 Stentz-Buecher (€15)
Dark colour for Alsace Pinot Noir, with incongruous herbaceousness from nose through palate to finish. Over extracted for degree of physiological ripeness. Trying too hard.

Back to Alsace wine guide 2004 main page