Alsace Extra-Brut
It takes a lot to get me to recommend an Extra-Brut. The Blanck is exceptional within its category.
75 Domaine Paul Blanck 1999 Crémant d’Alsace, Extra Brut
70 Domaine Meyer Fonné 1999 Crémant d’Alsace, Brut Extra
70 Klein 1997 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, Crémant d’Alsace
70 Klein 1996 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, Crémant d’Alsace
Alsace all other styles
After the sparkling wines from this region performed so well last year, I visited Alsace for a more in-depth tasting. There are a lot of very good sparkling wines being produced, but nothing so far that can be compared (in terms of quality, not style) with a very good Champagne. With over 500 producers churning out twice the volume of Saumur there is more than enough critical mass to create the competition necessary for taking these wines onto the next level of quality, so why hasn’t it happened? Because less than half-a-dozen producers compete with each other outside of Alsace itself and only two – Dopff Au Moulin and Wolfberger – have any international standing. When we see the smaller producers asserting themselves on the international scene, Crémant d’Alsace will start to come of age and the quality should improve across the board. However, the growers of this region are light-years behind the growers of Champagne, who are themselves light-years behind their Burgundian counterparts in establishing any sort of international reputation, and I cannot see the grower of Alsace discovering a warp-drive in the near future for their varietal wines, let alone their Crémant d’Alsace.
80 Kuentz Bas 1991 Chardonnay Brut, Crémant d’Alsace
80 Domaine Joseph Scharsch 1998 Cuvée Prestige, Crémant d’Alsace
80 Kuentz Bas 1991 Chardonnay Brut RD, Crémant d’Alsace (magnum)
79 Willm 1998 Blanc de Noirs, Crémant d’Alsace
79 Wolfberger 1999 Chardonnay, Crémant d’Alsace
78 Domaine Schlegel Boeglin 1998 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
78 Christian Dock 1999 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
78 Bernard Bohn 1995 Rosé, Crémant d’Alsace
78 Heim NV Imperial, Crémant d’Alsace
78 Pierre Sparr 1999 Brut Réserve, Crémant d’Alsace
77 Christian Dock 1998 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
77 François Runner et Fils 1999 Runner, Crémant d’Alsace
77 Domaine Wantz 1999 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
77 Pierre Paul Zink 1998 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
77 Jean Becker 1999 B de Becker, Crémant d’Alsace
77 Cave Vinicole de Pfaffenheim 1997 Hartenberg Tokay Pinot Gris Brut
76 Cave Vinicole de Turckheim 1999 Mayerling Brut, Crémant d’Alsace
76 Frey Sohler 1999 Blanc de Blancs, Crémant d’Alsace
76 Lucien Albrecht NV Crémant d’Alsace Brut
76 Cave Vinicole de Pfaffenheim 1999 Hartenberg, Blanc de Blancs Brut
76 Paul Ginglinger 1998 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
76 Domaine Daniel Ruff 1999 Blanc de Noirs, Crémant d’Alsace
76 La Cave de Sigolsheim 1995 Brut Rosé, Crémant d’Alsace
76 Domaine Léon Boesch 1996 Cuvée Réservée, Crémant d’Alsace
75 Cave Vinicole de Beblenheim NV Heimberger, Crémant d’Alsace
75 Cave Vinicole de Beblenheim NV Baron de Hoen, Crémant d’Alsace
75 Cave du Roi Dagobert 1998 St. Eloi Rosé, Crémant d’Alsace
75 Clément Weck 1999 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
75 Hubert Metz 1997 Réserve de la Dome, Crémant d’Alsace
75 Domaine du Bollenberg 1999 Eugène, Crémant d’Alsace
75 Domaine Einhart du Westerberg 1998 Einhart, Crémant d’Alsace
75 Henri Schoenheitz 1998 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
75 Spitz 1997 Brut Blanc de Noirs, Crémant d’Alsace
75 Cave de Ribeauvillé 1998 Giersberger Cuvée Prestige, Crémant d’Alsace
75 Domaine Gruss 1998 Brut Prestige, Crémant d’Alsace
75 Bernard Schwach 1999 Brut Réserve, Crémant d’Alsace
75 Domaine Barmes Buecher 1998 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
75 Wolfberger 1997 Prestige Cuvée An 2000, Crémant d’Alsace Brut
75 René Muré 1997 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
74 Cave de Beblenheim 1998 Blanc de Noirs Heimberger, Crémant d’Alsace
74 Cave Vinicole de Ribeauvillé 1998 Giersberger Brut, Crémant d’Alsace
74 Domaine Stentz Buecher 1998 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
74 Cave Vinicole de Cléebourg NV Clérotstein, Crémant d’Alsace
74 Schaeffer Woerly 1998 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
74 Gilbert Ruhlmann 1997 Cuvée Prestige, Crémant d’Alsace
74 Willm NV Crémant d’Alsace Brut
74 Pierre Paul Zink 1999 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
74 Cattin 1999 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
74 Haegelin 1996 Chardonnay, Crémant d’Alsace
74 Victor Hertz 1995 Rosé d’Alsace, Crémant d’Alsace
74 Edmond Rentz 1999 Crémant d’Alsace, Brut Prestige
74 Louis Sipp 1999 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
74 Domaine Albert Mann 1998 Baron de Castex Brut, Crémant d’Alsace
74 Pierre Sparr 1995 Brut Dynastie, Crémant d’Alsace
74 Pierre Sparr 1995 Glorius 2000, Crémant d’Alsace
74 Willm 1997 Prestige Cuvée Emile Willm, Crémant d’Alsace
73 Cave Vinicole d’Orschwiller 1998 Moenchberner, Crémant d’Alsace
73 Wunsch Mann 1998 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
73 Antoine Stoffel 1998 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
73 Maison Zoeller 1998 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
73 Pierre Hutt NV Crémant d’Alsace Brut
73 Domaine Valentin Zusslin NV Saint Valentin, Crémant d’Alsace
73 Dopff & Irion 1998 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
73 Dopff au Moulin NV Cuvée Julien, Crémant d’Alsace
73 Wolfberger 1999 Riesling, Crémant d’Alsace
73 Dopff au Moulin NV Rosé, Crémant d’Alsace
73 René Muré NV Crémant d’Alsace Brut
73 Domaine Léon Boesch 1998 Cuvée Réservée, Crémant d’Alsace
73 Bernard Bohn 1992 Crémant d’Alsace Brut magnum (magnum)
72 Baur 1998 Blanc de Noirs, Crémant d’Alsace
72 Paul Buecher 1999 Prestige Rosé, Crémant d’Alsace
72 Baumann Zirgel 1999 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
72 Bestheim 1998 Madame Sans Gene, Crémant d’Alsace
72 Frey Sohler 1998 Riesling, Crémant d’Alsace
72 Victor Hertz 1996 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
70 Gustave Lorentz 1999 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
70 Cave Vinicole d’Ingersheim NV Crémant d’Alsace Brut
70 Metz Laugel 1998 Riesling, Crémant d’Alsace
70 Cave Vinicole d’Ingersheim NV Brut Prestige, Crémant d’Alsace
70 Bestheim NV Crémant d’Alsace Brut
70 Cave Vinicole de Hunawihr NV Calixte Brut, Crémant d’Alsace
70 Domaine Bruno Sorg 1998 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
70 Wolfberger 1999 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
70 André Wantz 1996 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
70 David Ermel 1998 Brut David Ermel, Crémant d’Alsace
70 Willy Gisselbrecht 1999 Blanc de Noirs, Crémant d’Alsace
70 Spitz 1998 Brut Blanc de Noirs, Crémant d’Alsace
70 Stentz Buecher 1997 Chardonnay, Crémant d’Alsace
70 Vignoble Klur 1999 Klur Clement, Crémant d’Alsace
70 Robert Klingenfus NV Crémant d’Alsace Brut
70 Domaine Sipp Mack 1998 Crémant d’Alsace Brut
70 Cave Vinicole d’Orschwiller 1998 Chardonnay, Crémant d’Alsace
70 Cave Vinicole de Ribeauvillé 1998 Cuvée l’Offensee, Crémant d’Alsace
70 Schlegel Boeglin 1996 Réserve de la Vallée Noble, Crémant d’Alsace
70 Kuentz Bas NV Tradition, Crémant d’Alsace
Return to Champagne and Sparkling Wine Guide 2002
Gaillac
A dismal performance by Gaillac yielded just two recommendations.
75 Robert Plageoles NV Mauzac Nature, Gaillac
73 Cave de Labastide de Lévis NV Gaillac Brut
Limoux
As I said last year ‘I’m seeing less exciting Limoux, whether Blanquette or Crémant, as each year goes by’, although no one bothered to submit its finest and most interesting wine, the succulently sweet Méthode Ancestrale.
80 Cuvée Maistre Antoine NV Blanquette de Limoux Brut
79 Domaine de l’Aigle NV Jean-Louis Denois, Brut Tradition
73 Jean Louis Denois NV Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay Brut
Loire, all styles
If not for the Tresor, the Crémant de Loire from the Saumur cooperative would have topped this list, which would have been embarrassing for a leading Saumur producer. It is not that this cooperative happens to have better vineyards outside Saumur, just that the regulations for Crémant de Loire are more user-friendly for those winemakers who try to make a classic quality sparkling wine. As for the Tresor, it is one of the most helter-skelter wines on the market, but this year’s performance not only means that it is as good as one of the very best Champagnes in its own right, it is one percentile point short of the deluxe cuvée quality. We all know that the Loire can do it. It is arguably equal to Chablis in its potential to rival Champagne, yet both regions consistently produce more dross than quality. If the winemaker responsible for Pirie, Croser, Roederer Estate, Iron Horse and Domaine Carneros La Rêve were given vineyards here, overnight the Loire would become the hottest place for sparkling wine. Come on guys, do you really need foreigners to show you the way? The main obstruction is, as we all know, that this region (and Chablis) are famous for other still styles of wine. Whoever is brave enough to use first quality grapes from the very best vineyards for sparkling wine will become one of the world’s most legendary winemakers. Anyone up for it, or are you all prepared to let an Aussie or a Yank steal the limelight?
89 Bouvet Ladubay NV Tresor, Brut Saumur
75 CV de Saumur, Crémant de Loire NV Cuvée de la Chevalerie, Brut
75 Ackerman Laurance NV Cuvée Excellence, Saumur Brut
74 CV de Saumur, Crémant de Loire 1998 Les Médaillés, Brut
74 Ackerman Laurance NV Saumur 1811, Brut
74 Ackerman Laurance NV 1811 Vouvray Brut
74 Ackerman Laurance NV Cuvée Excellence, Crémant de Loire Brut
74 Langlois NV Crémant de Loire, Brut Rosé
72 Montvermeil NV Crémant de Loire, Brut
72 Ackerman NV Cuvée Privée, Crémant de Loire Brut
72 Château de Montgueret 1997 Tête de Cuvée, Saumur Brut
72 Langlois NV Crémant de Loire, Brut
72 Bouvet 1998 Saphir Brut Vintage, Saumur
71 Ackerman 1996 Cuvée Jean-Baptiste, Saumur Brut
70 Ackerman Laurance NV Privilège Brut, Crémant de Loire
75 Zéro par Bouvet-Ladubay 1998 Extra Brut, Saumur
78 CV de Saumur, Habit Pourpre NV Cuvée de la Chevalier, Cabernet Demi-Sec
Return to Champagne and Sparkling Wine Guide 2002
Australia: Vintage & Non-vintage
As can be gleaned from the results below, the presence of a vintage on an Australian fizz usually represents a step up in terms of quality, although any variation in the different years is more likely to be attributed more to learning curves than climatic conditions.
91 Pirie 1996 Pipers Brook
89 Pirie 1997 Pipers Brook
88 Croser 1998 Petaluma
86 Croser 1991 Petaluma
85 Chandon Australia 1997 Vintage Blanc de Blancs
84 Green Point by Chandon 1997 Vintage Brut
83 Green Point by Chandon 1997 Vintage Brut Rosé
80 Chandon NV Brut
80 Blue Pyrenees NV Midnight Cuvée Chardonnay
80 Yellowglen 1997 Brut Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier
80 Penley 1994 Coonawarra Pinot Noir Chardonnay
79 Glaetzer 1996 Barossa Valley Sparkling Pinot Noir
79 Omni NV
79 Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV Special Cuvée, Selected Reserve
78 White Quartz, Adelaide Hills 1997 Organic Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay
78 Hardys NV R&R Classic Cuvée
78 Wirra Wirra 1997 The Cousins, Pinot Noir Chardonnay
77 Strathbogie Ranges 1997 Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir
77 Yellowglen NV Brut Pinot Noir Chardonnay
77 Sir James 1995 Vintage
76 Barramundi Sparkling NV
76 Yellowglen NV Pinot Noir Chardonnay Grande Cuvée
76 Banrock Station NV Sparkling Chardonnay
75 Seaview 1996 Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs, Vintage Research Brut
74 Flirt NV Fizz
74 Sir James Brut de Brut NV Pinot Noir Chardonnay
74 Brown Brothers NV Pinot Noir & Chardonnay Sparkling, King Valley
74 Jansz of Tasmania NV
74 Blue Pyrenees Reserve Brut NV Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier
73 Sir James Cuvée Brut NV Pinot Noir Chardonnay
72 Hardys Stamp of Australia NV Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir
72 Cranswick NV Pinot Chardonnay
70 Sacred Hill NV Brut Cuvée SEA
Australian: sparkling red
This is very much Australia’s own style of sparkling wine. Most wines in this category are sparkling Shiraz, but you can get fizzed up versions of Cabernet, Merlot and various blends. The appearance of Pinot Noir is a rarity, especially in its pure form, which is odd since the first Australian red fizz was a “Sparkling Burgundy” back in 1881. The wines today are generally on the sweet side, very deep in colour and fall into one of two categories: cedary-oaky or fruit-driven. The sight of anything this colour with bubbles can give those brought up on Champagne a shock and this is only made worse by the big smack of tannin encountered in those sparkling red wines of the cedary-oaky style. Champagne drinkers who refuse to consider anything other than the genuine article will be brought within a mile of these wines, but those who are positively interested in the development of sparkling wines beyond the confines of northern France should at least try to understand Australian sparkling red wine. Although the bulk of Aussie red fizz is seen as nothing more (or anything less) than barbecue fodder, there is something of a cult-following for the very best wines.
90 Charles Melton NV Barossa Valley Sparkling Red
87 Nero NV Sparkling Shiraz
85 Chandon Australia NV Sparkling Red, Pinot Noir/Shiraz
85 Balnaves of Coonawarra 1999 Sparkling Cabernet
85 The Black Queen 1996 Sparkling Shiraz
85 Joseph NV Sparkling Red
84 Andrew Harris 1997 Double Vision Mudgee Sparkling Shiraz
80 Haselgrove NV McLaren Vale Garnet SG-7
80 Miranda 1994 Sparkling Shiraz, Barossa Old Vine Reserve
80 Omni NV Red
80 Leasingham Classic Clare 1994 Sparkling Shiraz
80 Glaetzer NV Barossa Valley Sparkling Shiraz
78 McLarens on the Lake NV Sparkling Red Shiraz
77 Willows Vineyard, The Doctor NV Sparkling Red, Shiraz/Pinot Noir
75 Tatachilla NV Sparkling Malbec
Return to Champagne and Sparkling Wine Guide 2002
England, all styles
England’s climate is every bit as variable as Champagne’s and the White Cliffs of Dover are part of the same chalk basin that extends under Channel and Paris to emerge in the famous region itself as the Côte des Blancs, so it is little wonder that sparkling wine is England’s great wine hope. Furthermore, the English deliberately put the bubbles into wine long before the French did. This was documented by Christopher Merret in 1662, six years before Dom Pérignon set foot in Hautvillers (this document is reproduced in my Christie’s World Encyclopedia of Champagne & Sparkling Wine), consequently sparkling Champagne was famous enough for English dramatists to wax lyrical about it in 1676 (The Man of Mode, Sir George Etherege), 43 years before the French claim to have invented it!
89 Nyetimber 1994 Aurora Cuvée, Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs, Brut (magnum)
88 Nyetimber 1994 Première Cuvée, Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs, Brut
87 Nyetimber 1994 Classic Cuvée, Brut
86 Davenport 1999 Brut Reserve
86 Bloomsbury 1997 Cuvée Merret, Brut
85 Fitzrovia 1998 Cuvée Merret, Brut
85 Cavendish 1998 Cuvée Merret
84 South Ridge 1998 Cuvée Merret, Brut
80 Bruisyard NV Millennium
80 Bearsted NV Brut
78 Breaky Bottom, Millennium Cuvée Maman Mercier 1996 Cuvée Réservé Brut
76 Chapel Down 1995 Epoch Vintage Brut
75 Bardfield 1998 Extra-Brut
75 Camel Valley 1999 Cornwall Brut
73 Chapel Down NV Epoch, Brut
73 The English Wine Centre 1996 House Bubbly, Brut RD 2000
72 Southern Shore NV Brut
72 Davenport 1998 Brut
70 Danebury 1995 Cossack, Brut
70 Hale Valley 1998 Brut
Return to Champagne and Sparkling Wine Guide 2002
Germany Riesling Sekt
Riesling makes a classic Sekt, but not a classic sparkling wine. Its terpene-laden character overwhelms the subtle influence of autolysis, thus no sparkling wine made from this variety will ever achieve classic bottle-fermented aromas. What it will achieve, however, is what any good still Riesling can accomplish and that is a classic Riesling bottle-aroma. Call it petrolly or what you like, but this usually takes a few years after disgorgement, hence a certain maturity is required. A Champagne-lover who is also a Riesling-lover should enjoy a mature Riesling Sekt, but only if all preconceived notions of what a sparkling wine should be are put to one side.
Riesling Sekt Extra-Brut
Often less austere than their Champagne counterparts, although subject to the same 0-6 grams per litre of residual sugar.
80 Prinz von Hessen 1997 Extra Brut
75 Hans Lang 1997 Johann Maximilian Extra Brut
72 Baron zu Knyphausen 1993 Herrlichkeit Knyphausen
70 Winzerverein Deidesheim 1998 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Extra Brut
Riesling Sekt Brut
By far the most successful style, the Reichsrat von Buhl 1999 Forster Pechstein being equivalent in pure quality terms to a very good Champagne.
85 Reichsrat von Buhl 1996 Forster Pechstein Riesling Brut (magnum)
80 Markus Fries 1997 Noviander Klosterberg Brut
78 Studert Prüm Maximinhof 1998 Maximiner Cabinet Brut
78 Selbach-Oster 1997 Zeltinger Himmelreich Brut
75 Carl Adelseck 1998 Juwel Brut
75 St. Urbans-Hof 1998 Brut
75 Rainer Eymann 1998 Riesling Sekt Brut
75 Prinz zu Salm Dalberg’sches Weingut 1998 Rheingraf Riesling Sekt Brut
75 St. Laurentius Sektgut 1998 Riesling Brut
75 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach 1998 Rauenthaler Baiken Brut
74 Freunde von Reinhartshausen NV Hattenheimer Deutelsberg Brut
74 Schales 1991 Riesling Sekt Brut
74 C. v. Schubert’sche 1998 Maximin Grünhäuser Riesling Sekt Brut
72 Albert Kallfelz 1999 Kallfelz Riesling Sekt Brut
72 Freiherr von Schleinitz 1999 Riesling Sekt Brut
72 Reichsrat von Buhl 1999 Riesling Brut
72 Sybille Kuntz 1999 Riesling Sekt Brut
72 Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt NV Schloss Castell Brut
71 Heinrich Schmitges 1999 Riesling Sekt Brut
70 C. Rumpel & Cie. 1998 Trabener Gaispfad Brut
70 Max Ferd. Richter 1998 Mulheimer Sonnenlay Brut
70 Heim’sche Privat-Sektkellerei 1999 Martin Heim Brut
70 Saar-Mosel-Winzersekt 1999 Mosel Riesling Sekt Brut
70 Durbacher Wg. 1998 Durbacher Plauelrain Riesling Brut
70 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 1995 Zeltinger Himmelreich Brut
Riesling Sekt Trocken & Extra-Troken
Technically the same as Sec and Extra Sec, thus the former will have between 17 and 35 grams per litre of residual sugar, while the latter may have between 12 and 20.
77 Carl Adelseck 1998 Juwel Trocken
74 Paul Anheuser 1996 Nahe Riesling Sekt Trocken
74 Schmitt-Peitz 1999 Wallhäuser Pfarrgarten Trocken
73 Tauberfränkische 1998 Becksteiner Kirchberg Riesling Sekt Trocken
71 Schmitges 1999 Riesling Sekt Trocken
70 des Hauses Württemberg 1998 Maulbronner Eilfingerberg Riesling Sekt Trocken
70 Joseph Deppisch 1998 Franken Riesling Extra Trocken
Other Sekt: Extra-Brut
Regardless of actual quality, most of these wines will be more classic in style as far as most experienced sparkling wine are concerned. Spätburgunder is the most successful variety.
80 Prinz von Hessen 1997 Extra Brut
75 Reichsrat von Buhl 1998 Weissburgunder Dosage Zero
75 Hans Lang 1997 Johann Maximilian Extra Brut
72 Baron zu Knyphausen 1993 Herrlichkeit Knyphausen Extra Brut
70 Winzerverein Deidesheim 1998 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Extra Brut
Other Sekt: Brut
80 Markus Fries 1997 Noviander Klosterberg Brut
80 Dr. Bürklin Wolf 1997 Chardonnay Brut
78 Studert Prüm Maximinhof 1998 Maximiner Cabinet Brut
78 Selbach-Oster 1997 Zeltinger Himmelreich Brut
78 Wilhelmshof 1998 Siebeldinger Königsgarten Blanc de Noir Brut
77 Reichsrat von Buhl 1994 Spätburgunder Blanc de Noir Brut
77 Reichsrat von Buhl 1994 Spätburgunder Blanc de Noir Brut
75 Carl Adelseck 1998 Juwel Brut
75 St. Urbans-Hof 1998 Brut
75 St. Laurentius Sektgut 1998 Chardonnay Brut
75 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach 1998 Rauenthaler Baiken Brut
75 Mäurer’s 1996 Chardonnay Classic Brut
75 Bürgermeister W. Schweinhardt Nachf. 1998 Chardonnay Brut
75 Domänenweingut Schloss Schönborn 1994 Assmannshäuser Höllenberg Brut
74 Freunde von Reinhartshausen NV Hattenheimer Deutelsberg Brut
74 Wg. Lauffen 1996 Katzenbeißer Blanc de Noir Brut
74 Gut Nägelsförst 1998 Blanc de Blanc Brut
73 Staatsweingut Meersburg 1999 Pinot Brut
73 Wilhelmshof 1999 Siebeldinger Königsgarten Blanc de Noir Brut
73 Albert Heitlinger 1997 Heilinger Blanc et Brut
72 Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt NV Schloss Castell Brut
71 Wg. Bickensohl 1999 Bickensohler Pinot blanc de Noir Brut
70 C. Rumpel & Cie. 1998 Trabener Gaispfad Brut
70 Max Ferd. Richter 1998 Mulheimer Sonnenlay Brut
70 Heim’sche Privat-Sektkellerei 1999 Martin Heim Brut
70 Eugen Schönhals 1999 Pinot Blanc de Noir Brut
70 Joseph Deppisch 1998 Franken Silvaner Brut
70 Badischer Winzerkeller 1996 Brut
70 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 1995 Zeltinger Himmelreich Brut
70 Freunde von Reinhartshausen 1998 Schloss Reinhartshausen Brut
Other Sekt: Trocken & Extra-Trocken
80 Reis und Luft 1998 Blauer Spätburgunder Winzersekt Trocken
77 Carl Adelseck 1998 Juwel Trocken
75 Schales 1997 Weisser Burgunder Sekt Extra Trocken
74 Winzerverein Deidesheim 1999 Spätburgunder Trocken Rotsekt
74 Schmitt-Peitz 1999 Wallhäuser Pfarrgarten Trocken
72 Edith Stein 1999 Riesling Gewürztraminer Trocken
70 Winzerkeller Hex vom Dasenstein 1997 Trocken
70 Weingärtner Flein-Talheim 1998 Trocken
70 Winzersekt 1999 Rheinhessen Spätburgunder Weißherbst Extra Trocken
70 Schloss Affaltrach, Dr. R. Baumann GmbH & Co. 1998 Rose ExtraTrocken
Return to Champagne and Sparkling Wine Guide 2002
Italy: Franciacorta
The only Italian sparkling wine appellation that must be made by méthode champenoise. Franciacorta also happens to be the only compact wine area producing world class sparkling wine in Italy. The overall quality was excellent, but an increasing number of Franciacorta are suffering from heavy-handed malolactic, which at best robs the wines of their finesse, while at worst results in off-putting aromas.
Franciacorta Extra-Brut
82 Ricci Curbastro NV Franciacorta Extra Brut
82 Uberti NV Francesco I, Franciacorta Extra Brut
76 Monzio Campagnoni NV Franciacorta Extra Brut
74 Lo Sparviere NV Franciacorta Extra Brut
74 il Mosnel NV Franciacorta Extra Brut
Franciacorta Brut
85 Vezzoli 1997 Franciacorta Brut
85 Ca’del Bosco 1994 Cuvée Annamaria Clementi
83 Ricci Curbastro NV Franciacorta Satèn Brut
82 Barone Pizzini NV Franciacorta Satèn
82 Bagnadore Io 1995 Franciacorta Brut
82 Villa 1995 Franciacorta Brut Selezione
80 Riccafana NV Franciacorta Satèn
80 Boschi NV Franciacorta Brut
80 San Cristoforo NV Franciacorta Brut
80 Castelveder 1996 Franciacorta Brut
80 Bellavista 1997 Gran Cuvée Brut, Franciacorta
78 Bredasole NV Franciacorta Brut
78 La Montina 1996 Franciacorta Brut
77 Barboglio DeGaioncelli NV Franciacorta Brut
77 Vigna Dorata NV Franciacorta Brut
77 La Boscaiola 1996 Franciacorta Brut
77 Monogram NV Cuvée Giunone, Franciacorta Brut
77 Ricci Curbastro NV Franciacorta Brut
77 il Mosnel 1997 Franciacorta Brut Satèn
76 Gatti NV Franciacorta Brut
76 Tenuta Castellino Bonomi NV Franciacorta Brut
76 Barone Pizzini NV Franciacorta Brut
76 Bersi Serlini NV Cuvée No.4, Franciacorta Brut
76 Bellavista NV Cuvée Brut, Franciacorta
75 Cornaleto 1997 Franciacorta Brut Satèn
75 Monzio Compagnoni NV Franciacorta Brut
75 Faccoli NV Franciacorta Brut
75 Montorfano de Filippo NV Franciacorta Brut
75 il Mosnel NV Franciacorta Brut
75 Monzio Compagnoni NV Franciacorta Satèn
75 Bersi Serlini NV Franciacorta Brut
75 La Boscaiola NV Franciacorta Brut
75 Antica Cantina Fratta 1998 Franciacorta Brut
75 Contadi Castaldi NV Franciacorta Brut
75 Ca’del Bosco NV Franciacorta Brut
75 Contadi Castaldi 1997 Franciacorta Brut Satèn
75 Cornaleto 1992 Franciacorta Brut
75 Ronco Calino 1996 Franciacorta Brut
75 Uberti NV Magnificentia, Franciacorta Satèn
75 Bellavista NV Gran Cuvée Satèn, Franciacorta
75 Ca’del Bosco 1996 Franciacorta Satèn
74 Mirabella NV Franciacorta Brut
74 Gatti NV Franciacorta Satèn
74 Ferghettina NV Franciacorta Brut
74 Le Marchesine NV Franciacorta Brut
74 Tenuta Castellino Bonomi NV Franciacorta Satèn
74 Conti Bettoni Cazzago NV Tetellus, Franciacorta Brut
74 Monogram 1991 Franciacorta Brut
74 Cavalleri NV Franciacorta Satèn Blanc de Blancs
74 Monte Rossa NV Franciacorta Brut Satèn
73 Riccafana NV Franciacorta Brut
73 Enrico Serafino 1995 Cuvée Speciale per il Millennio, Brut Millesimato
73 Castelveder NV Franciacorta Brut
71 Batasiolo Dosage Zéro 1994 Millésimé
Franciacorta Sec & Extra-Sec
78 Barone Pizzini NV Franciacorta Extra Dry
77 Barboglio DeGaioncelli NV Franciacorta Extra Dry
72 Monte Rossa NV Franciacorta Sec
Franciacorta Rosé
The best of these wines have an elegance to rival most pink Champagnes
80 Mirabella NV Franciacorta Rosé
80 Monte Rossa 1995 Cabochon, Franciacorta Rosé Brut
77 Faccoli NV Franciacorta Rosé Brut
75 Barone Pizzini NV Franciacorta Rosé
74 Ca’del Bosco 1997 Franciacorta Rosé
72 Bellavista 1997 Gran Cuvée Brut Rosé, Franciacorta
Italy: Asti
At long last I’m beginning to whittle Asti down to the true classics.
90 La Selvatica – Asti NV Caudrina, Romano Dogliotti
88 De Miranda 1998 Asti Metodo Classico
87 De Miranda 1997 Asti Metodo Classico
86 Cerutti NV Asti Cesare
85 Tosti NV Asti Dolce
85 Vigne Regali NV Asti, Spumante Dolce
85 Capetta NV Asti Dolce
85 Conte di Cavour NV Asti
85 Casa Martelletti NV Tradizione Asti
85 Bava NV Malvasia di Castelnuovo don Bosco, Rosé Dolce
85 Vignaioli di S. Stefano 2000 Asti Spumante
84 Bersano NV Asti Dolce
75 Santero NV Asti Dolce
Italy: Brachetto d’Acqui
Red Asti for all intents and purposes, except that the aroma is more creamy-winey, less floral and never as intense as the peach or orange sometimes found on the best Asti.
85 I Ronchetti NV Brachetto d’Acqui
81 Tosti NV Brachetto d’Acqui
80 Marenco NV Brachetto d’Acqui Dolce
78 Arione NV Piemonte Brachetto Dolce
78 Rosa Regale 2000 Brachetto d’Acqui
78 Bersano NV Brachetto d’Acqui Dolce
78 Dezzani NV Brachetto d’Acqui Dolce
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New Zealand
This country vies with Tasmania as the greatest sparkling wine area in the Southern Hemisphere and only the Loire and Burgundy share the same potential outside of Champagne in the Northern Hemisphere. It will be interesting to see who wins as New Zealand and Tasmania fight it out over the next couple of decades, although neither should worry about the French regions – the French producers don’t.
89 Hunter’s 1996 Brut
89 Morton Estate 1995 RD, Marlborough
87 Miru Miru 1998 Hunter’s
86 Miru Miru 1999 Hunter’s
85 Pelorus 1996 Marlborough
83 Lindauer NV Special Reserve
80 Soljans Estate 1998 Sparkling Pinotage
80 Montana Deutz NV Marlborough Cuvée
80 Kim Crawford Rory NV Brut
80 Huia 1997 Brut
80 Daniel No.1 NV Brut
80 Pelorus NV Marlborough
78 Lindauer NV Rosé
78 Morton Estate NV Premium Brut, Marlborough
78 Montana Deutz 1996 Blanc de Blancs
77 Palliser Estate 1997 Martinborough
75 Lindauer NV Brut
75 Daniel le Brun 1996 Blanc de Blancs
75 Alan McCorkindale 1999 Vintage, Waipara Valley
75 Lindauer NV Grandeur
73 Daniel le Brun NV Brut
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Spain
There are Cava fans out there who think that I hate Cava unless it has been crafted in the style of a Champagne, but I’m a Cava-sceptic, not a Cava-hater and I am perfectly willing to acknowledge quality in a Cava produced from Parellada, Macabéo and Xarel.lo grapes. The fact that most of the very best Cavas have been produced from Champagne grapes, whether pure or blended, can easily be explained. These varieties have established their credential as the best for sparkling wine throughout the world, whereas Cava’s so-called traditional grapes have not. I taste hundreds of Cava every year and inevitably recommend more traditional-based products than Chardonnay-based. If I didn’t I would suspect myself of being biased because that’s the way the dice is loaded. Now, however, traditional-based Cava has reached a milestone (as far as this guide is concerned) because it is the first time that I have found such a Cava to be equal in quality to a very good Champagne. I have awarded 85-87 points to Cavas in previous editions, but they were all pumped-up with Chardonnay to one degree or another, but the Torre Galimany 1998 is made exclusively from the Holy Trinity of Parellada, Macabéo and Xarel.lo, with the emphasis on the last variety. Furthermore, all previous high-scorers – Raimat Gran Brut (87 points in the first edition), Jaume Codorníu (85 points in the 2000 edition) and once again the Raimat Gran Brut (85 points in the 2001 edition) – were from the Codorníu stable, whereas the Torre Galimany 1998 is the first Freixenet group Cava to break the quality barrier.
Cava Brut Nature
Brut Nature is restricted to a maximum of three grams per litre of residual sugar. I have never recommended so many Brut Nature in any category of sparkling wine, including Champagne.
85 Torre Galimany 1998 Cava Brut Nature
80 Cristina Colomer NV Cava Brut Nature
80 Eudald Massana Noya NV Cava Brut Nature Mil.lenni
80 Gramona, III Lustros 1996 Cava Brut Nature
80 Gramona, III Lustros 1995 Cava Brut Nature
80 Gran Claustro 1998 Cava Brut Nature
80 Maria Casanovas NV Cava Brut Nature Gran Reserva
78 Signat 1999 Cava Brut Nature
78 Raventós i Blanc 1998 Cava Brut Nature Gran Reserva
77 Alsina Sardà Sello 1996 Cava Brut Nature Gran Reserva
77 Titiana de Parxet NV Cava Brut Nature
76 Duc de Foix NV Cava Brut Nature
76 Mont-Ferrant Blanes Nature 1997 Cava Extra Brut
76 Juvé & Camps, Reserva de la Familia 1997 Cava Brut Nature
74 Castellblanch Brut Zero NV Cava Brut Reserva
74 Bohigas NV Cava Brut Nature
74 Duc de Foix NV Cava Brut Nature Rosado
73 Marques de Gelida NV Cava Brut Nature
72 Joan Raventós Rosell NV Cava Brut Nature
70 Sumarroca 1997 Cava Brut Nature Gran Reserva
Cava Extra-Brut
Extra-Brut may have up to six grams per litre of residual sugar.
80 Torreblanca 1999 Cava Extra Brut Reserva
76 Masblanc NV Cava Extra Brut
Cava Brut
Interestingly the four highest scoring wines are all non-vintage, as were the three highest-scoring Cavas from previous edition (see the main Cava introduction above).
80 Torreblanca NV Cava Brut
80 Raimat Chardonnay NV Cava Brut
80 Jaume de Codorníu NV Cava Brut
79 Vallformosa NV Cava Brut
79 Gramona, Imperial 1997 Cava Brut Gran Reserva
79 Gramona, Imperial 1998 Cava Brut Gran Reserva
78 Gala de Vallformosa 1998 Cava Brut
78 Codorníu Cuvée Raventós NV Cava Brut
77 Freixenet Cuvée D.S. 1996 Cava Brut
77 Naveran 1998 Cava Brut Reserva
77 Sumarroca 1998 Cava Brut Reserva
76 Castellblanch Gran Castell NV Cava Brut Gran Reserva
76 Marques de Gelida NV Cava Brut Reserva
76 Agustí Torelló Mata 1998 Cava Brut Reserva
75 Torre Oria NV Cava Brut Reserva
75 Eudald Massana Noya NV Cava Brut Nature Reserva
75 Ferret NV Cava Brut Reserva
75 Paul Cheneau NV Cava Brut
75 Cuvée 21 de Parxet NV Cava Brut
74 Castell de Vilarnau 1997 Cava Brut Gran Reserva
72 Cristalino NV Cava Brut
72 Chandon NV Cava Brut
70 Castillo de Perelada NV Cava Brut Reserva
70 Castell de Vilarnau NV Cava Brut
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South Africa
For the very first time in three year two Cap Classique wines have matched the quality of a very good Champagne. In the first edition Nicky Krone achieved this with two vintages of Krone Borealis. This time Pieter Ferreira of Graham Beck has done the same. Cap Classique has the potential to develop internationally, but it won’t do so until there are at least ten-times as many producers as there are now. Only when a critical mass of producers begin to push each other forward will we know what the true potential of Cap Classique actually is.
85 Private Vintners Limited Release 1995 Pinot Noir, Cap Classique
85 Graham Beck 1996 Brut Blanc de Blancs, Cap Classique
83 Krone Borealis 1994 Brut, Cap Classique
82 Graham Beck NV Pinot Noir – Chardonnay Brut, Cap Classique
80 Morgenhof 1997 Brut, Cap Classique
80 Graham Beck NV Cuvée Two Thousand, Cap Classique
78 J.C. Le Roux 1996 Chardonnay, Cap Classique
76 Villiera 1998 Brut Natural Chardonnay, Cap Classique
75 Villiera NV Tradition Brut, Cap Classique
75 Buitenverwachting NV Brut, Cap Classique
74 Krone Borealis 1998 Brut, Cap Classique
72 Villiera NV Brut Rosé, Cap Classique
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United States of America
California was the first New World area in which a Champagne house set up a serious méthode champenoise operation, when Moët established Domaine Chandon in 1973. This state still leads the way, but with Washington and Oregon (not tasted this year) in the wings.
91 Roederer Estate L’Ermitage 1994 Brut
91 Domaine Carneros by Taittinger 1995 Le Rêve
90 Gloria Ferrer 1994 Royal Cuvée Brut
90 Roederer Estate L’Ermitage 1996 Brut
90 Iron Horse 1991 Brut
89 Gloria Ferrer 1993 Royal Cuvée Brut
89 Domaine Carneros by Taittinger 1994 Le Rêve Blanc de Blancs
88 Iron Horse 1997 Blanc de Blancs
85 Mumm Cuvée Napa 1994 Winery Lake
85 Mumm Cuvée Napa NV Sparkling Pinot Noir
85 Roederer Estate NV Rosé Brut
85 Iron Horse 1995 Classic Vintage Brut
85 Mountain Dome NV Cuvée Forté
85 Mumm Cuvée Napa 1996 DVX Brut
85 J 1994 Brut (magnum)
83 Mountain Dome 1995 Brut
83 J 1996 Brut
82 Schramsberg 1997 Blanc de Blancs
80 Gloria Ferrer NV Carneros Rosé
80 Mumm Cuvée Napa NV Brut Prestige
80 Roederer Estate NV Brut
80 Domaine Carneros by Taittinger NV Brut
80 Iron Horse 1996 Russian Cuvée
80 Etoile NV Brut
79 Thornton NV Cuvée de Frontignan
78 Mountain Dome NV Brut
78 Jepson NV Blanc de Blancs
78 Mumm Cuvée Napa NV Blanc de Noirs
77 Mumm Cuvée Napa NV Blanc de Blancs
77 Thornton NV Millennium Cuvée
77 Iron Horse 1996 Classic Vintage Brut
76 Mirabelle NV Brut, Schramsberg
76 Gloria Ferrer NV Brut
76 Thornton NV Brut Rosé
75 Mumm Cuvée Napa 1995 Brut
75 Domaine Chandon NV Blanc de Noirs
75 Korbel 1998 Natural Chardonnay Champagne
75 Gloria Ferrer NV Blanc de Noirs
75 Pacific Echo NV Brut, Mendocino County
75 Iron Horse NV Brut Rosé
72 Chateau Frank 1996 Brut
70 Shadow Creek by Chandon NV Blanc de Noirs
70 Thornton NV Natural Brut Reserve
70 Chateau Biltmore 1998 Blanc de Blancs Brut
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