Morris & Verdin established their initial reputation as wine merchants on their selection of Burgundies, and even though they have recently been bought by Berry Bros & Rudd, they still maintain their independence and success in this field, as their recent tasting of 2002s amply illustrated. Prices are per case of twelve bottles in bond
whites
Didier Picq Chablis – £71.00
Always a great way to start the tasting. A firm mineral nose, with rich flinty fruit on the palate and an underlying elegance. Drinking well now, but could also develop with bottle age.
Didier Picq Chablis Vieilles Vignes – £81.00
From three plots of vines that are all over 50 years old. Quite a full nose, richer than the previous wine, with more concentration and weight, but a similarity of style.
Didier Picq Chablis 1er cru Vaucoupin – £105.00
Quite a solid firm nose. Quite rounded, with good leafy fruit and a certain concentration. Plenty of potential for future drinking.
Domaine du Bois Guillaume, Les Champs Perdrix Hautes Côtes de Beaune – £83
Quite a firm oaky nose, with oak on the palate too, but none the less, very elegant and balanced with good acidity.
Les Héritiers des Comtes Lafon Macon Milly-Lamartine – £83.00
Smokey nose, with similar oaky notes on the palate. Attractively leafy fruit, with good acidity. Nicely balanced.
Olivier Merlin Mâcon La Roche Vineuse – £60.00
Elegant nose; quite rounded smokey, lightly oak palate, balanced with good acidity.
Olivier Merlin Pouilly-Fuissé, Fuissé – £77.50 for six bottles
Firm, closed oaky nose, with firm structured fruit on the palate. Oak still very present, but a long buttery finish.
Domaine Michel Bouzereau et fils Meursault Grands Carrons – £157.00
Firm nose. Structured palate; nicely tight-knit, youthful and elegant, and very promising for future development.
Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault le Tesson, cask sample – £265.00
Firm dry nose. The same on the palate, with an elegant finish and nicely balanced oak and fruit.
Domaine Benoit Ente Puligny-Montrachet, Folatières, 1er cru – £310.00
Quite a firm dry nose. Sturdy concentrated palate, but with an underlying elegance. Enormous potential for bottle ageing.
reds
Domaine Carré Courbin Volnay – £135.00
Medium colour; quite firm raspberry fruit on both nose and palate. A fresh elegant finish.
Domaine Carré Courbin Volnay vieilles vignes – £195.00
Medium colour. Quite a firm perfumed nose, with a structured palate and a depth and ripeness, compared to the previous wine.
Domaine Carré Courbin Volnay les Taillepieds. 1er cru. – £275.00
And this is even better, though at a price of course. Firm fruit on both nose and palate, but with an underlying ripeness and a certain indefinable silky finish that is quintessentially fine Pinot Noir. A long finish.
Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu 2001 – £275.00
Medium colour. Smokey nose. Quite fresh raspberry fruit, with quite firm tannins. Contrasts with 2002 vintage.
Domaine du Comte Armand Volnay Fremiets 1er cru, cask sample – £280.00
Quite a sturdy nose; solid rounded raspberry fruit. Ripe and rounded, with all the charm of the 2002 vintage. An elegant finish. Should be delicious in a few years time.
Dujac Fils et Père Morey St. Denis – £180.00
Firm smokey nose. Lovely elegant ripe fruit, quite supple and accessible but with a firm backbone.
Domaine Dujac Gevrey Chambertin Combottes 1er cru2001 – £360.00
Firm nose, with a structured plate, and underlying raspberry fruit. An attractive freshness.
Patrice Rion – Nuits St. Georges vieilles vignes – £190.00 cask sample
Medium colour. Quite vegetal notes on the nose. Supple vegetal and raspberry fruit on the palate. In other words, classic Pinot Noir, with elegance and concentration.
Domaine René Engel Grands Echezeaux grand cru, cask sample – £480 .00
Medium colour. A firm nose, with very good fruit and spicy liquorice notes. Repeated on the palate, with a backbone of tannins. A wonderful combination of elegance and concentration. Should develop beautifully. A great note on which to finish.