de Montille Volnay en Champans 2014

Tom Cannavan

Tom Cannavan

Administrator
Trying to choose between two wines to open this evening, one of which is my only bottle of this 1er Cru from Domaine de Montille. Fascinated to see it tasted in December 2015 by Jenny Cho Lee who scored it 86, and one month later by Tim Atkin who scored it 94.

I know the latter is prone to a bit of point inflation, but that's some discrepancy - between pretty average and verging on outstanding. I cannot see the actual reviews of either, but given the wine is still listed by the Wine Society, thought someone here might have a more recent experience of it?
 
We had the 2013 a few weeks ago. It was fairly closed on opening with an initially slightly disjointed palate. After an hour or two it did open up a little and the palate came together. Still pretty tough though. The 2014 was chapatalised by one degree, as most other recent vintages were (though to a less degree). Based on the 2013 I’d open it a good few hours before and possibly decant. Ps Steve Tanzer gives it 89 so I guess he’s in the middle.
 
On the end I switched tack completely and went with Meursault (!?!?) - the Les Meix Chavaux 2018 from Lucien Muzard. Very buttery, almost mint humbuggy on the nose, but a clean and refined palate, maybe lacking some excitement, but actually a lovely 91 point sort of wine.
 
Tom Cannavan said:
Just squaring the circle on this as I opened it 10 minutes ago for the upcoming late Sunday lunch: Drinking nicely: maybe now a tiny bit shy on fruit, but there is a crushed, small red berry intensity (redcurrant, cranberry) and a genuinely lovely herbal and truffle character. I'm going to enjoy this.

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I time this message at around 4.15, which is by no definition a late lunch. In Lancashire we would call it tea. Even with that red stuff.
 
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