TN Domaine Tollot-Beaut mini vertical

Domaine Tollot-Beaut is the estate in Chorey-lès-Beaune which started bottling its own wines since 1921.

Today the ‘front of house’ face of 24ha domaine is Nathalie Tollot. She is the 5th generation to run a domaine that has been run from the same premises for over 100 years — since late 19th century — though parts of the cellars are as much as 250 years old.

In the vineyard, Tollot-Beaut does not use fertilisers, and green harvests are usually performed to limit yields. Grapes are harvested manually on a plot-by-plot basis. Red fruit is mostly destemmed and lightly handled to avoid crushing before going into fermentation tanks.
Domaine Tollot-Beaut also has a reputation for its balanced use of oak, the philosophy behind is about cleanliness of winemaking, not oak flavour.
Grand Cru wines are aged 18 months in around 50% of new oak.

The estate is known for its high proportion of old vines from Pinot Fin, the original clone of Pinot Noir.

We had the chance to taste a small vertical of Corton-Bressandes and also compare with Corton.

Producers of Corton have the option of labeling the wine as simply “Corton,” or adding the name of one of 28 individual climats that make up this Corton Grand Cru. Corton-Bressandes is a well-known, east-facing mid slope climat with high limestone content often cited as one of the very best climats of the hill.

Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru 2016 (91pts) is very youthful and tight, showing primary black fruits over spices and earth. High acidity and firm yet green tannins. It will benefit a lot from some bottle age as most of Corton reds do, however ’16 might reach its maturity bit earlier.


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Domaine Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru 2015
Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru 2015 (92+pts) was definitely the wine of the tasting. Still youthful and vanilla oaky with firm tannins, but it revealed its high breed with more powerful and even perfumed aromatics. Mix of red & black berries, earthiness, flowers with touch of herbs.

Then we followed with the battle of Grand Crus: Corton-Bressandes vs Corton both from 2013 vintage.
Corton comes from Les Combes, a small climat that faces directly south. The vines were planted between 1930 and 2008.


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Domaine Tollot-Beaut Corton vs. Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru 2013
Corton Grand Cru 2013 (90pts). Aromas and flavors of black cherry, fur, chocolate, mineral. Concentrated, structured.

Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru 2013 (90pts) was very much consistent with younger vintages in style. The wine seems to be closed up even with extra bottle aging which gave it some development. In this pair with Corton it showed more balanced

Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru 2011 (89pts) being the oldest wine of the tasting didn’t show on par with the others. Fruit aromas mixed with beetroot flavours. It lacks concentration on the palate and felt somewhat watery and diluted which I can only blame odd ’11 vintage for.
 
My most underrated domaine of Burgundy.

Been buying and drinking since 1993, indeed bought a shed load of that year which at the time was not lauded.
15 years later the Beaune premier cru Clos De Roi was a gem.

Scary to think the chorey village was circa £6 a bottle.

Why do not more top flight merchants latch on to this domeinae as small as it is.
Lay and Wheeler were in the day and latterly domaines direct.
 
I know this domaine well and have visited them many times over the last 25 years. In my experience you have opened these GC's at a very young age and they usually need around 15 - 25 years to show their best. Personally I would even give most of their village wines 10 years. I still have several wines, at village, 1er and GC from 1998/99/2000/01/02/03 waiting for the right moment.
 
Another domaine where the old label was better though!

This domaine, along with Gouges, was one of my first tastings of burgundy when I worked private house functions as a teenager.

I still remember really noticing the perfume of a bottle and the 'sweetness' of the taste.
 
Perversely I like the new labels, don’t much care for the wine despite trying to many times.

Too much oak and extraction and not enough charm mean they often seem astringent to my palate.
 
Clearly I need to get out more as I'm the only one posting but another popped into my head - Jobard too.

Nothing wrong with the new one but I really liked the old one!
 
Couldn't care less about the labels but what I would very much object to are those dreadful glasses. Not just the irregular shape but the so thick, rolled edge. A glass with a fine rim enhances the pleasure of drinking the wine enormously. The Zalto burg glasses are excellent in that respect.
 
My most underrated domaine of Burgundy.

Been buying and drinking since 1993, indeed bought a shed load of that year which at the time was not lauded.
15 years later the Beaune premier cru Clos De Roi was a gem.

Scary to think the chorey village was circa £6 a bottle.

Why do not more top flight merchants latch on to this domeinae as small as it is.
Lay and Wheeler were in the day and latterly domaines direct.
24 hectares is quite a sizeable domaine by Burgundian standards.

Loeb used to do them as well. I don’t know whether the new proprietors of Loeb have continued.

The wines have always been easy to buy, even the GC’s. I remember asking Brough Gurney-Randall about them a few years back when he was sales director of Loeb’s and his take was that the wines lasted almost indefinitely - he cited a long term Tollot Beaut customer with whom he had tasted village wines from the early 80’s which were still drinking well at thirty years of age - but the difficulty in selling them was that they taste a bit “new worldly” with plenty of apparently up front fruit and lots of oak when young giving the impression that the wines wouldn’t last. Not exactly the easiest combination for the uninitiated to work with. I was certainly fooled for many years and only came around to buying late in the day.

My experience has been that they seem to work better in the “better” vintages, as they have sufficient stuffing to balance the oak in such vintages, but seem a little less well balanced in lighter vintages as they don’t seem to me to dial the oak back sufficiently. Only my view though and mainly based on tasting the wines young.
 
Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru 2016 (91pts) is very youthful and tight, showing primary black fruits over spices and earth. High acidity and firm yet green tannins. It will benefit a lot from some bottle age as most of Corton reds do, however ’16 might reach its maturity bit earlier.

Surprised that you conclude that a wine with firm acidity and firm yet green tannins with 50% new oak and green harvested to increase concentration and maturity might reach maturity a bit earlier!
 
Surprised that you conclude that a wine with firm acidity and firm yet green tannins with 50% new oak and green harvested to increase concentration and maturity might reach maturity a bit earlier!
Tasted together with 2015. I can tell the difference. 2015 has already 1 extra year of bottle aging, but it is by far more reserved and concentrated at the same time. 2016 lacks that concentration of 2015, so that's pretty much the rationale behind the conclusion.
 
Tasted together with 2015. I can tell the difference. 2015 has already 1 extra year of bottle aging, but it is by far more reserved and concentrated at the same time. 2016 lacks that concentration of 2015, so that's pretty much the rationale behind the conclusion.
Which is pretty much there point I'm trying to make.

A wine with excellent balance and plenty of concentration would often be drinkable (and apparently mature) before a wine with less concentration but with a slightly edgy balance, even though it would probably have a longer drinking window and possibly outclass and outlast the latter wine. The latter would often need the time to come into some sort of mature balance.

In the interests of fairness it's not always easy to tell how these things will turn out, especially when the wines tasted are very young. If this were Bordeaux I'd reckon you'd be in with a better chance of drawing firm conclusions at this point. With burgundy less so.
 
In the interests of fairness it's not always easy to tell how these things will turn out, especially when the wines tasted are very young. If this were Bordeaux I'd reckon you'd be in with a better chance of drawing firm conclusions at this point. With burgundy less so.
For 'it's not always easy' I might substitute 'it's not usually possible'.
 
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