- Location
- London
Exhibit A, 24 July 2021, from Gareth’s ‘best of Bordeaux‘ dinner last summer
Exhibit B
Exhibit C
Exhibit D, Joel’s pristine Ferrari F40
Exhibit E, my last bottle of Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1985 with back up and dessert wine
It finally started to fall into place. We set a date. Friday 20th May, 2022. Joel invited Nick and Graham too. The idea was that I would get down to Joel’s country gaff in Cowden, deep in rural Kent, near the Sussex border, early to go for a spin and the others would come later, in time for lunch.
The weather has been pretty good lately but the forecast for Friday was looking dodgy. Thursday was bright and sunny as today, Saturday, promises to be. But on Friday morning it didn’t just rain, it poured, which put the kibosh on it. It was not a sensible nor safe proposition to take the F40 out, a car from an era before traction control and airbags.
But at least I got to peel the potatoes … contributing Joel’s tour de force in cooking.
With gougeres
2011 Champagne Larmandier-Bernie’s Vieilles Vignes du Levant Grand Cru Extra Brut
A creamy lively, lovely vivacious, effusive BdB
With crab, bread and butter
2018 Meusault 1er Cru Poruzots Pierre-Yves Colin Morey
Already accessible but still quite reductive, intense with white peach and orchard fruits and minerality; very classy, superb potential
1985 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Chaumees Colin Deleger
Vibrant, rich, buttery, toasty, brioche, light golden hue, complex with hints of aniseed, beautiful wine, holding up ever so well with years left
With shoulder, rump and rack of Penhurst lamb, pommes purée
1969 Corton Bonneau du Martray
Wonderful secondary and tertiary floral, herbal expression with tea notes, good acidity holding it together with only a slight drying in the finish - a veritable treat
1985 Mouton Rothschild
Similar to previous bottles this has a racy ethereal quality. It is so light on its feet, with bright red fruits, spice box, truffles and tobacco with a thrilling grippyness and tension. This bottle was ever so slightly drying on the finish. Still thrilling - like riding in an F40?
2004 Barolo Mascarello Monprivato
I still have a few of these stuck in America, and was looking forward to reacquainting myself with this wine. But it tasted pretty flat in comparison to its older livelier flight mates. It did not appear to be flawed it just kind of didn’t show up.
Leoville Barton 1961
Tertiary notes of leather, with iron and blood - that is all I can remember of this bottle that Joel pulled out at the last minute.
The lamb, which Joel sourced locally, was beautifully succulent, and triumphant, the culinary highlight in an impressive repertoire.
Anna’s orange and almond cake
Anna is Joel’s wife, who unfortunately could not join us, but generously made this delicious cake for our dessert.
Chateau d’Yquem 1990
Almost de rigeur now, layered and complex including hints of saffron
Selection of cheeses, then
Hine Rare VSOP and a puff of one of Joel’s Montecristos (I am not allowed to smoke cigars these days)
By the afternoon it was sunny and dry again. Sod’s law.
Thank you Joel for inviting us and your Hurculean efforts in the kitchen, and to Nick and Graham for their contributions.
Exhibit B
Exhibit C
Exhibit D, Joel’s pristine Ferrari F40
Exhibit E, my last bottle of Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1985 with back up and dessert wine
It finally started to fall into place. We set a date. Friday 20th May, 2022. Joel invited Nick and Graham too. The idea was that I would get down to Joel’s country gaff in Cowden, deep in rural Kent, near the Sussex border, early to go for a spin and the others would come later, in time for lunch.
The weather has been pretty good lately but the forecast for Friday was looking dodgy. Thursday was bright and sunny as today, Saturday, promises to be. But on Friday morning it didn’t just rain, it poured, which put the kibosh on it. It was not a sensible nor safe proposition to take the F40 out, a car from an era before traction control and airbags.
But at least I got to peel the potatoes … contributing Joel’s tour de force in cooking.
With gougeres
2011 Champagne Larmandier-Bernie’s Vieilles Vignes du Levant Grand Cru Extra Brut
A creamy lively, lovely vivacious, effusive BdB
With crab, bread and butter
2018 Meusault 1er Cru Poruzots Pierre-Yves Colin Morey
Already accessible but still quite reductive, intense with white peach and orchard fruits and minerality; very classy, superb potential
1985 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Chaumees Colin Deleger
Vibrant, rich, buttery, toasty, brioche, light golden hue, complex with hints of aniseed, beautiful wine, holding up ever so well with years left
With shoulder, rump and rack of Penhurst lamb, pommes purée
1969 Corton Bonneau du Martray
Wonderful secondary and tertiary floral, herbal expression with tea notes, good acidity holding it together with only a slight drying in the finish - a veritable treat
1985 Mouton Rothschild
Similar to previous bottles this has a racy ethereal quality. It is so light on its feet, with bright red fruits, spice box, truffles and tobacco with a thrilling grippyness and tension. This bottle was ever so slightly drying on the finish. Still thrilling - like riding in an F40?
2004 Barolo Mascarello Monprivato
I still have a few of these stuck in America, and was looking forward to reacquainting myself with this wine. But it tasted pretty flat in comparison to its older livelier flight mates. It did not appear to be flawed it just kind of didn’t show up.
Leoville Barton 1961
Tertiary notes of leather, with iron and blood - that is all I can remember of this bottle that Joel pulled out at the last minute.
The lamb, which Joel sourced locally, was beautifully succulent, and triumphant, the culinary highlight in an impressive repertoire.
Anna’s orange and almond cake
Anna is Joel’s wife, who unfortunately could not join us, but generously made this delicious cake for our dessert.
Chateau d’Yquem 1990
Almost de rigeur now, layered and complex including hints of saffron
Selection of cheeses, then
Hine Rare VSOP and a puff of one of Joel’s Montecristos (I am not allowed to smoke cigars these days)
By the afternoon it was sunny and dry again. Sod’s law.
Thank you Joel for inviting us and your Hurculean efforts in the kitchen, and to Nick and Graham for their contributions.
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