LONG - Dijon and Nuits Visit: Rossignol Trapet, Haisma, Marchard de Gramont

Every year I spend a few days in Dijon with my friend Ed to escape work and family, walk Burgundy vineyards and drink far too much wine, normally around the weekend of the les Nuits au grand jour tasting in Nuits-Saint-Georges. It was again wonderful this year. Great nights in Bruno Bar et Vin in Dijon. A magical half bottle of old vine, Cote white from 2002 for under £20 at a restaurant but whose name I forgot to take - magical, rich, hazelnut. Reminder of what we have lost by not being able to age White Burgundy safely.

Highlights from the tastings - the vineyard expression in Rossignol Trapet’s 2016s. Open, generous Latricieres. Firmer, more serious Chapelle. The vintage really suits them.

Others elsewhere on the Forum have been discussing the virtues and acidity levels in Mark Haisma’s wines. I love them and the 2017s are all looking v good indeed - but I should declare he has become a friend and that makes a difference I think in tasting them. 2 of his new wines really stood out - the Chassagne (more complexity and precision than I expected at village level) and especially the Chambolle 1er Cru which really suits his style. Lots of stems - 70% I think he said. He’s experimenting with a new barrel provider on his Gevrey - 7 old; 2 new with 1 from the new provider. And it was great to hear him talk about having the new shed and it enabling him to make the wine he wants to make.

The Nuits tasting - wines in bottle, various vintages, 30+ producers - was very hard work. Overextracted and lacking balance except at the top level and best producers but 1 new to me producer stood out: Machard de Gramont. Bio but stable. Beautiful and precise wines. Finally, Bruno pulled out a 2015 Guillard Gevrey Reniard VV Village on our last night. Wow - concentration but with balance; 13% and if you can find some around £30 + shipping all in. As good as anything we drank at 3 or 4 times that during the trip.
 
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I remember bottles from Machard De Gramont going back to the eighties, always pleasing but it sounds as if they have moved on apace. Guillard is a completely new name to me.
 
Hi Jonathan. No didn’t go to the winery. They were at the Nuits au grand jour tasting on Saturday. It was Axelle who I met. The wines were such a relief especially the 2014s - the Allots and Terrasses des Vallerots. Some precision, elegance in the middle of tooth numbing tannin and power from too many of the others.
 
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