TN Midweek 26 to 29 Sept

Tom Cannavan

Administrator
2021 Assyrtiko "Wild Ferment" from Skouras, bought at Majestic for £16 (£13 mix six price) for a WSET study session this weekend. Finished the bottle on Monday. The primary fruit was mostly green apple and grapefruit, a little floral, a lot leesy, saline, and some wet stone mineral notes (don't tell WSET I used the term "mineral"). Very fresh, and more concentrated than I expected. I'd be curious to see what this would do with a little bottle age, because I suspect it would evolve some savoury herbal notes that would be very pleasant.

I've been somewhat snobby about Majestic in the past, but I'll take it back, because I thought the entire flight was good for the prices!

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I know Assyrtiko is now planted all over Greece, so it would be nice to find very good examples at £13 - Assyrtiko from Santorini seems to have soared above £20/£25 minimum almost 'overnight'. I really liked the last edition of the TWS own-label Santorini at £15, but it's sold out and I await to see for how much the next vintage will offered.
 
2015 Cusumano "Alta Mora" Etna Rosso DOC 13.5% (100% Nerello Mascalese)
Not been a huge fan of the wines that I've tried from Cusumano in the past (found them a bit over-extracted/out of balance) so was not expecting a great deal from this. Initially quite hard going; very dry/gritty tannins, lots of acid and a bit mute on the nose. Food really lifted it (Chicken livers, red wine sauce, chips and garlicky chestnut mushrooms). Some perfumes began to emerge (herbs and aniseed), red cherry fruit, freshness from the acidity and an attractive lean flavour in the mid palate (not over extracted I'm pleased to report). It fills ot with more time in the glass. Dry bitter tannin and a savoury flavour on the finish. Solid rather spectacular. The rough edges will smooth out with further cellaring; depends on how you like your tannins I guess.

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Took some time to get the notes up due to an unfortunate break-up but hopefully some good wines over the upcoming birthday weekend to get over it!

MAINLY MEURSAULTS - (27/9/2022)

  • 2018 Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Le Mont Benoit Extra Brut - France, Champagne
    Superb way to kick things off, this was brought by a generous friend. Top notch champagne that was right in my wheelhouse, powerful champagne with lots of tension, ripe yet restrained yellow fruit. Think I said this had a slightly natty feel and similar weight to a Collin. Was almost disappointed when it got revealed because these are getting so expensive. (94 pts.)
  • 2010 Deutz Champagne Hommage à William Deutz Aÿ - France, Champagne
    Another bubbly brought by another generous friend. Similarly ripe fruit to the Brochet but a little greener curiously enough. Rounder texture, and the dosage stuck out - this felt overly sweet alongside the Brochet. (90 pts.)
  • 2010 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Les Poruzots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
    Unfortunately corked. Shame because this felt like a great wine underneath the taint. NR (flawed)
  • 2018 Domaine Heitz-Lochardet Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
    Made in a new-school reductive style but that didn't quite gel with the warmer vintage characteristics of exotic fruit and overt alcohol notes. Still too much baby fat and a little simple for the pedigree of the plot, no one was in Perrieres for this. Needs more time. (90 pts.)
  • 2018 Domaine Rougeot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
    Despite being a good wine, this was less impressive than lower-level bottlings that I have tried from this producer which I felt outperformed their level. Others got a strong curry leaf on the nose funnily enough. Greener and more restrained compared to the Heitz alongside but still showed the same baby fat. Got better with air. (91 pts.)
  • 2015 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes-Dessus - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
    Haven't had many Girardin whites but have heard good things, and this was a fine example. Clearly some oak use but wasn't distracting. Very good old-school Burg white, rich and buttery with hazelnuts, but not overdone in any way despite not having the enamel-stripping acidity that some of the new-school producers have. (93 pts.)
  • 2018 Domaine Fabien Coche Meursault en l'Ormeau - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
    This punched well above its weight - I guessed 2012 1er on this. Thought it showed some age with the darker colour, very forthcoming fruit and a more experienced taster was right when he said that it was a little simple compared to Girardin and Morey before they were revealed. (92 pts.)
  • 2007 Morey-Blanc Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
    My contribution. Took time to get into balance as it was a little honeyed and disjointed at first, but blossomed into a stunning wine. Rich almond notes, expressive citrus fruit and had a complexity that only a good maker and age can bring. Love Pierre Morey wines and this showed much better than a '08 Tessons that I had last year. (94 pts.)
  • 2016 Bruno Rocca Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Opened the previous night but I kept some in a small bottle for the group to try. Perfumed, floral nose laced with rose petals. Still quite primary but showed the balance of a great vintage - elegant, pure red fruit but with a good tannic bite. Did not come across as modern at all and very enjoyable. (92 pts.)
  • 2008 Domaine Jacques Prieur Volnay 1er Cru Champans - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
    Don't have much experience with this producer but this was very pleasant. Cool and elegant dark red fruit, had a distinct cola note and savouriness that made me guess Gevrey. (91 pts.)

 
I can’t remember when I last saw a note on an Amarone on here (but then it’s not from Piedmonte ;) )

I like Amarone but so rarely drink it.
The biggest problem with Amarone is when you have a well balanced one you don’t really notice the alcohol until it’s gone and then you feel well and truly hammered! So, probably best not to drink too many.
 
I can’t remember when I last saw a note on an Amarone on here (but then it’s not from Piedmonte ;) )

I like Amarone but so rarely drink it.
It’s sort of the Italian fine wine that’s easy to forget. Maybe because the style doesn’t fit with the zeitgeist. I had one last week (think it was an Alpha Zeta thing) and it was rather nice but verging on porty. Super-pricey Quintarelli and Dal Forno aside it’s not a wine one sees an awful lot of column inches devoted to.
 
It’s sort of the Italian fine wine that’s easy to forget. Maybe because the style doesn’t fit with the zeitgeist. I had one last week (think it was an Alpha Zeta thing) and it was rather nice but verging on porty. Super-pricey Quintarelli and Dal Forno aside it’s not a wine one sees an awful lot of column inches devoted to.
I would suggest Ferragu as a decent compromise.
 

Tom Cannavan

Administrator
I can’t remember when I last saw a note on an Amarone on here (but then it’s not from Piedmonte ;) )

I like Amarone but so rarely drink it.

No, we very rarely drink it and I honestly can never remember buying a bottle or ordering it in a restaurant - people sometimes gift it, and of course I receive samples.

I was really quite impressed by some of the wines when I visited Masi and a number of other Amarone estates, but it just never springs to mind as the wine I want to drink.
 
Last night a magnum of Vinsobres 'altitude 420' 2019 from Jaume. Lovely simple, juicy, clean wine for drinking rather than contemplation. While it will certainly keep it would be silly to keep it on purpose.
 
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