Like many here I have been drinking so much more Aligoté than ever before. Is it so vastly improved? Yes, no doubt about it.
I remember Aligoté in the 1980s and it was usually characterised by excess acidity rarely matched (well, in Gros Plant). It was cheap, but acidic.
Something seems to have happened. I mean Coche Dury Aligoté is still acidic, but you just need to keep it twenty years. But good Aligoté does seem to have something extra these days. For me that something is quite exciting, but I can’t always define exactly what it is.
When it comes to Chardonnay it is also remarkable how wines from the fringes have come on. Macon and the Auxerrois, for example. But what I think might begin knocking at the door in 2019, if gently at first, is Beaujolais Blanc.