Food Restaurant A Wong

The green things with the flowers on top are just somewhat pickled normal cucumbers (the vegetable kind), aren't they?! Maybe abalone underneath?

Despite having been cited as a source above (thanks Tom, very flattering) I don't have masses to add, but I do think the Instagram tendency for people going to restaurants to go once only and to have a menu they've already seen over and over is a very bad trend in general. It is funny how fashions change, I remember an episode of Mad Men where one of the characters, wanting to show off, asks the restaurant for something 'special, out of season'....

I too very rarely eat in the higher end French places in London, but outside that world have recently enjoyed Kol (although that fades in the memory somewhat) and the Kurisu Omakase popup, which was probably not for the absolute purist but really pretty fantastic. Pre-pandemic I had several excellent meals at Ikoyi but haven't been back yet, and am looking forward to trying Roketsu. If I was to only go to one expensive restaurant in the UK it would be The Sportsman...
 
Alex Hills said:
The green things with the flowers on top are just somewhat pickled normal cucumbers (the vegetable kind), aren't they?! Maybe abalone underneath?

Despite having been cited as a source above (thanks Tom, very flattering) I don't have masses to add, but I do think the Instagram tendency for people going to restaurants to go once only and to have a menu they've already seen over and over is a very bad trend in general. It is funny how fashions change, I remember an episode of Mad Men where one of the characters, wanting to show off, asks the restaurant for something 'special, out of season'....

I too very rarely eat in the higher end French places in London, but outside that world have recently enjoyed Kol (although that fades in the memory somewhat) and the Kurisu Omakase popup, which was probably not for the absolute purist but really pretty fantastic. Pre-pandemic I had several excellent meals at Ikoyi but haven't been back yet, and am looking forward to trying Roketsu. If I was to only go to one expensive restaurant in the UK it would be The Sportsman...
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If you like Ikoyi you should give Akoko a try
 
Thom Blach said:
I admire your certainty; I had understood it to be a bit more complicated than that. The process for soaking the finest sea cucumbers takes four or five days; they are roasted over a flame then soaked for half a day, simmered for half an hour and soaked in the same water for another day, vigorously scrubbed, brought to the boil again and soaked another day. The bellies are opened and very carefully cleaned. At that point they should be soft and ready for their initial cooking in water with some ginger and spring onion all of which is then discarded, then its subsequent one with salt, sugar, pepper and sesame oil. This liquid is also discarded and the sea cucumber is now ready for its final preparation. There is I suppose an arguable ghost of original flavour left, but they take on the characteristics of the potent ingredients with which they are cooked. There are certainly lower grades that are prepared in a less painstaking manner, like the kind that is eaten alive in South Korea.

If cooking and eating is only about the very finest ingredients cooked in the most exquisite manner(not that I am dismissing that pleasure in the slightest, nor the connoisseurship required to appreciate it) then it is a subject considerably more sterile and tedious than I had heretofore imagined. To my weak mind gastronomy is above all about identity, in all its many splendours, and if that sense of identity very occasionally invokes the preparation of an ingredient that is 'out of season' it seems to me hardly calamitous.
Fanny Cradock thought that cooking was mostly for intimidating one's neighbours. Good old Fanny.
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You are speaking of Chinese gastronomy. I assure you they are not treated that way in Spain, even though there is a different emphasis on texture in the opposite direction. I also think about what the Chinese do to abalone vs. how they are prepared in Japan, which do you prefer? Certainly unique in their own ways, but a steamed giant abalone served with its liver vs. what I have had braised in top class restaurants in HK and Guangzhou? My preference is for the former.

I suppose you could also debate cured Jamon to fresh pork leg in the other direction, but back to A Wong... this is not a produce driven restaurant, which excludes it from any serious discussion. Call it sterile if you must, but I would rather eat great food in a fluorescent cafeteria than rubbish in plush surroundings and perfect lighting. Diff' strokes for diff' folks.
 
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Tom Gandey said:
You are speaking of Chinese gastronomy. I assure you they are not treated that way in Spain, even though there is a different emphasis on texture in the opposite direction. I also think about what the Chinese do to abalone vs. how they are prepared in Japan, which do you prefer? Certainly unique in their own ways, but a steamed giant abalone served with its liver vs. what I have had braised in top class restaurants in HK and Guangzhou? My preference is for the former.

I suppose you could also debate cured Jamon to fresh pork leg in the other direction, but back to A Wong... this is not a produce driven restaurant, which excludes it from any serious discussion. Call it sterile if you must, but I would rather eat great food in a fluorescent cafeteria than rubbish in plush surroundings and perfect lighting. Diff' strokes for diff' folks.
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I was indeed speaking of Chinese gastronomy, that being the subject in question. They are obviously not dried in Spain, and it is only quite recently that they have been consumed at all there. I've never eaten abalone in the Japanese manner, indeed Japanese cooking is a considerable blindspot in my life, I greatly respect it at its best but I do not love its various aesthetics which for me far too often cross the line between purity and sterility, entirely a matter of taste.
Hams were cured in China centuries before they were in Spain, FWIW. I haven't been to A Wong. I suspect you are right about it not being produce driven but that only excludes it from your serious discussion. There are other ways of being and Chinese cooking is paradoxical in being both obsessive about and completely careless of its materials. I'm negatively prejudiced about both A Wong's style and its assumptions myself, as it happens, but am willing to prove myself wrong.

I have no interest in dining in palaces; I think you may have completely misunderstood what I meant by narrative, which is rather about people and places and their stories. Whole cuisines are based upon the cook's fine hand and judgement rather than access to the finest raw materials, which have always been the privilege of the wealthy, and they are not to be dismissed summarily on those grounds, thrilling as the best produce undoubtedly is.
 
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Thom Blach said:
I was indeed speaking of Chinese gastronomy, that being the subject in question. They are obviously not dried in Spain, and it is only quite recently that they have been consumed at all there. I've never eaten abalone in the Japanese manner, indeed Japanese cooking is a considerable blindspot in my life, I greatly respect it at its best but I do not love its various aesthetics which for me far too often cross the line between purity and sterility, entirely a matter of taste.
Hams were cured in China centuries before they were in Spain, FWIW. I haven't been to A Wong. I suspect you are right about it not being produce driven but that only excludes it from your serious discussion. There are other ways of being and Chinese cooking is paradoxical in being both obsessive about and completely careless of its materials. I'm negatively prejudiced about both A Wong's style and its assumptions myself, as it happens, but am willing to prove myself wrong.

I have no interest in dining in palaces; I think you may have completely misunderstood what I meant by narrative, which is rather about people and places and their stories. Whole cuisines are based upon the cook's fine hand and judgement rather than access to the finest raw materials, which have always been the privilege of the wealthy, and they are not to be dismissed summarily on those grounds, thrilling as the best produce undoubtedly is.
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Fair enough on sea cucumber on it being relatively new to Spain as an ingredient, a lot more history in China.
I am familiar with the Chinese dried hams, but as you know the finest ones are Spanish (probably because the Japanese don't have enough land) and there is far less history in Spain, but there is more connoisseurship because they have been relatively more wealthy over a much longer recent period.

I also had prejudices about A Wong, which is partially why I went, having generally negative experiences with Chinese in London (HKK when it was around - chef now at Mei Mei), Min Jiang, Royal China Marylebone. Gold Mine is OK for casual Cantonese roast duck, but most of their other dishes fall well short. Imperial Treasure looks good but the price point is laughable.

You don't like palaces? L'Ambroisie? I'm not a fan of the atmosphere either, yet they deliver the goods. Ultimately my concern is what is in front of me, I don't need any narrative, as interesting as it may be. Whole cuisines are indeed as you say, based on technique/spicing, but the very best combines both. I'll sight Mikael as an example, a man that basically hates Chinese food and... you know what? He didn't have bad things to say about top Chinese restaurants in Tokyo because they used top quality produce.

Doesn't sound like you have had a proper Japan trip. To quote Kelly LeBrock in Weird Science, "Mindscrambler"
 
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Tom Gandey said:
I also had prejudices about A Wong, which is partially why I went, having generally negative experiences with Chinese in London (HKK when it was around - chef now at Mei Mei), Min Jiang, Royal China Marylebone. Gold Mine is OK for casual Cantonese roast duck, but most of their other dishes fall well short. Imperial Treasure looks good but the price point is laughable.
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The problem with Chinese restaurants in London has always been inconsistency but it seems much worse in recent years. Cooks from China are no longer allowed in and those from HK etc will always get better offers elsewhere. Things were hugely better thirty years ago, only partly because of a much more demanding and knowledgeable native population.
Tom Gandey said:
You don't like palaces? L'Ambroisie? I'm not a fan of the atmosphere either, yet they deliver the goods. Ultimately my concern is what is in front of me, I don't need any narrative, as interesting as it may be. Whole cuisines are indeed as you say, based on technique/spicing, but the very best combines both. I'll cite Mikael as an example, a man that basically hates Chinese food and... you know what? He didn't have bad things to say about top Chinese restaurants in Tokyo because they used top quality produce.
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I didn't mean that I don't like palaces, I meant that I don't need them. I love L'Ambroisie and its slightly ecclesiastical atmosphere on the grounds that if something is to be done it should be done properly. That isn't at all what I mean by narrative, however.
I have the greatest admiration for Mr. Jonsson but while his particular and highly exigent standards are commendable I do not regard him as the sole arbiter of what is good and true. I was about to write that I'm sure he doesn't either but on reflection that is probably incorrect!

Tom Gandey said:
Doesn't sound like you have had a proper Japan trip. To quote Kelly LeBrock in Weird Science, "Mindscrambler"
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I've had endless plans to go to Japan but it never quite happened and sadly probably won't now.
 
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Thom Blach said:
I have the greatest admiration for Mr. Jonsson but while his particular and highly exigent standards are commendable I do not regard him as the sole arbiter of what is good and true. I was about to write that I'm sure he doesn't either but on reflection that is probably incorrect!
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When it comes to Mikael, definitely incorrect!

Shame if you couldn't make it to Japan, haven't been for years but something I hope to rectify sooner rather than later.
 
Gabi and I will be in London on 19th Feb and sadly A Wong doesn’t have any vacancies. Where would you recommend we eat for Chinese food? I tried searching the forum as I’m sure it’s been discussed before but I can’t find a thread. Somewhere open all day would be great but not a dealbreaker. Otherwise a early dinner at 5 would work. I am open to any suggestions of interesting good food
 
Ian Russell said:
Gabi and I will be in London on 19th Feb and sadly A Wong doesn’t have any vacancies. Where would you recommend we eat for Chinese food? I tried searching the forum as I’m sure it’s been discussed before but I can’t find a thread. Somewhere open all day would be great but not a dealbreaker. Otherwise a early dinner at 5 would work. I am open to any suggestions of interesting good food
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I've far less knowledge than most, even before we get to local knowledge, but enjoyed this place: https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.th.../apr/21/jay-rayner-restaurant-oriental-dragon

Rayner praises the offal, I was keener on all the live seafood, barbecued to order.

The place isn't grand. It's barely basic. But the food was lovely.
 
Ian Russell said:
Gabi and I will be in London on 19th Feb and sadly A Wong doesn’t have any vacancies. Where would you recommend we eat for Chinese food? I tried searching the forum as I’m sure it’s been discussed before but I can’t find a thread. Somewhere open all day would be great but not a dealbreaker. Otherwise a early dinner at 5 would work. I am open to any suggestions of interesting good food
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Hunan

- Hunan London - Chinese Restaurant

A rapid succession of tapas-size portions promise a unique and memorable meal.
www.hunanlondon.com www.hunanlondon.com
 
I don‘t think Hunan opens at 5pm. (their website says dinner starts at 6pm)
I don‘t know much of other this kind of Chinese-inspired fine dining place, but if you want to try "traditional" (and arguably more humble) Chinese restaurants there are plenty that open all the afternoon. They won‘t be at A Wong or Hunan level‘s service but would be less pricy. Food up to each person‘s taste, for me A Wong and Hunan have totally different concept from traditional ones.
I heard good thing about Barshu in soho but I can‘t digest spicy chillies so never visited. For cantonese style cooking Gold Mine near Queensway has its fans, though we went on CNY day the quality was ok, maybe too busy on that day.
 
Po-yu Sung said:
I don‘t think Hunan opens at 5pm. (their website says dinner starts at 6pm)
I don‘t know much of other this kind of Chinese-inspired fine dining place, but if you want to try "traditional" (and arguably more humble) Chinese restaurants there are plenty that open all the afternoon. They won‘t be at A Wong or Hunan level‘s service but would be less pricy. Food up to each person‘s taste, for me A Wong and Hunan have totally different concept from traditional ones.
I heard good thing about Barshu in soho but I can‘t digest spicy chillies so never visited. For cantonese style cooking Gold Mine near Queensway has its fans, though we went on CNY day the quality was ok, maybe too busy on that day.
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I love hot and spicy food and Barshu might suit me well. Gabi not so sure? Having seen their website Barshu has gone favourite. It looks divine. And they are open all day.

It is difficult to always articulate clearly what we are looking for. I would be delighted by anywhere you would suggest. Posh surroundings and fancy service don’t matter to me. A tad politer than Wong Kei would be nice!

If it were down to you where would you suggest we go? I only rekindled this thread as I could t find any more recent threads on London Chinese food.
 
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Alex Hills said:
Haven't been to Barshu for ages but the cold tripe salad and the crispy pigs trotters are both not to be missed if that's your thing...
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I will eat most things Including tripe but it wouldn’t be top of my list. I have never found it easy to get on with pig‘s trotters either but if they are good I could be tempted? Gabi….hmmm
 
The whole seabass cooked with chillis (which aren't themselves really meant for eating) is certainly a classic too. Very good dumplings as well. I've tended not to order things which are too dependent on the innate quality of the proteins there but it is definitely a bit more ambitious (and expensive) than most of the other Sichuan places I've been to in London, which is a much lower proportion of them than it would have been 5 years ago....

Not that it is actually Sichuan, but I think Xi'an Impression (although I don't usually order meat there) is probably where my heart is for London Chinese.
 
I have enjoyed Barshu over the years as an occasional modestly priced stop in Central London. If I recall correctly the menu online seems to be smarter than the old one which used to have lots of pictures of the dishes. I may be wrong but the dishes used to have no, one, two or three chillies. They now just use two crossed chillies ("savory spicy") and a logo that looks like someone apparently exuding spicy heat ("authentic spicy"). Presumably, it is a mistake to label the "assorted meats in fiery sauce" (containing amongst other things duck blood, beef tripe, and pig's intestine) as "plant-base" [sic].
And the "assorted dry wok" has the person gagging on spice twice, so may be quite hot???
 
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