The Meursault thread

I thought I'd start a thread because I'm interested to hear forumites' views of this village. In particular, who are the best producers and premier crus and what flavours and aromas do you identify with them?
In The Wines of Burgundy, Clive Coates states that Les Perrieres is the best premier cru, followed by Genevrieres and Charmes. He suggests that Perieres is 'the most mineral, the most steely and the raciest of the Meursault premier crus'. He describes Genevrieres as 'rounder, lusher, less steely and mineral...the flavours are muskier and there can be an element of citrus.' Charmes, he says, has 'an attractive, soft flowery character...peach blossom,delicately nutty, gently honeyed....less racy than Perrieres and less exotically spicy than Genevrieres.'

What are forumites' thoughts? I've found Genevrieres to have aromas and flavours of greengages, especially the bottling from Girardin. Does anyone have this experience?

Is there any interest in an offline featuring these three premier crus?
 
David,

For me the most important thing is producer. Of the producers I know a little about, I prefer Coche historically (by quite some way) but it should be noted that there have been a few problems with premox in recent years (e.g., 2002, 2005, 2007).
Arnaud Ente is making great wines in recent times, but the prices of the top wines are now in Coche territory: e.g., arguably his best wine, La Seve du Clos, is around £500 a bottle on the secondary market for a wine that isn't even a 1er cru. I don't own a single bottle of Ente: I wish I did.

Tonight, I was lucky enough to try Lafon Perrieres 2008, Ente Clos des Ambres 2008 and Coche Caillerets 2008. (There was also a Nieillon Chevalier 2008 that was badly premoxed.)
The Lafon was a little tedious. Ente was pristine ... vg for his third best lieu dit. Not the most complex, but very nice. The Coche Caillerets (sometimes an awkward terroir for white) showed brilliantly, spicy and engaging.
So in theory Lafon is a great producer, Perrieres is the best vineyard ... yet the worst of these three bottles of Meursault tonight.

If forced to pick a current producer hierarchy (with usual premox caveats):

*** Coche-Dury, A. Ente
** Roulot, d'Auvenay
* Lafon, PYCM

I have tried to make this hierarchy independent of price and value.

I thought Lafon may be better in the most recent years (** post 2009?) but now I'm really not sure, and I'm not totally convinced by how the supposedly great Perrieres 2010 is turning out. And Lafon was pretty good historically (maybe *** pre 1982).
I note that I admire d'Auvenay more than I enjoy them.

Re terroir, I think I never used to like Perrieres that much when I first got to try it. It wasn't Meursault as I understood and enjoyed it (i.e., nutty) but was a mineral, stony wine.
Genevrieres has an underlying mineral streak like Perrieres but overlays a floral element on top.
Charmes is like a magnified village Meursault.

Re an offline, I think the problem with an offline is getting enough same vineyard + producer + year comparisons, otherwise it might be pretty random.
So a good tasting might be to serve pairs or triples from the same producer, same year, ideally all blind. And nothing too old.

Best,

Paul
 
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Where does someone like H Boillot stand in the pantheon?

I don't have the reference myself beyond a pretty smart Bourgogne Blanc but I've often wondered if there isn't actually quite a few growers not that far behind the secondary market favourites.
 
I used to spend a lot of time in Meursault when we used to go to Burgundy every year, so as much for reasons of sentimentality as anything else it became my favourite village.

More by luck than anything else I got into Ente quite early, but as Paul says, his wines are crazy now, and I'm in the same position as him.

I adore the precision of the Roulot wines. In a way they are atypical, at least as regards the buttery wines of the 80s and 90s from many producers I drank.

But prices! In 2015 IIRC I bought Roulot straight Meursault for £55/bottle. I think the Bourgogne Blanc is now over £40!

Again, Paul hits the nail on the head - producer, not site, is key. I myself have had to look elsewhere. For a while, PYCM Saint-Aubin provided something of an alternative, but prices, as always, move on.
 
Paul,

You've cited all the politically correct and most expensive ones! ;-))))))))))

A friend of mine, Patrick Essa, makes very good wine at Domaine Buisson Charles in Meursault.
Patrick is one of the most knowledgeable wine people I've ever met.
His wine is very good and much more affordable than the darlings.

Best,
Alex R.
 
They are the best ones, Alex. It is annoying. Buisson-Charles are very good but not really in the same league-though it would be boring if we only drank the best, certainly.
 
This might be a good time to get some input on Frank Grux's personal venture as his wines cost considerably less than those mentioned. Any experience at all? I can get his Les Meix Chavaux for half the price of Roulot from the same vintages, which whilst not cheap is..well.. half the price of Roulot!
 
As well as a couple of growers mentioned above, I also follow Patrick Javillier. His wines can be quirky but are never boring.
Additionally, I keep an eye out for a couple of lieux dits: Tillets & Narvaux. They are a clear notch above villages but remain reasonably priced.
Though ultimately I'm more interested in Puligny & St.Aubin, together with a growing interest in Chassagne (including its reds).
 
With the exception of D'Auvenay it's the secondary sellers who load on the shekels. If PYCM really is so generally highly regarded then their wines will shortly become very expensive, remarkably fair-minded as their UK agents are.
 
PYCM is the only one that I can get at remotely reasonable prices given the quality. Everyone else has pushed the boat out too far vs quality IMHO.
<smug alert on> His St. Aubins still reasonably priced in Beaune & its environs.<off> Though having looked, I paid a pretty penny for Narvaux '14, last year.:eek:
C-M La Maltroie '12 lined up for this weekend.
 
Negociants have been the source of some of the very best white burgundy historically though have had serious issues; It is to be hoped that Jadot will recover their genuine greatness in white.
But what is Meursault? is it Coche-Dury or Robert Ampeau? I adore both, it's the stuff in the middle than can be quite dull.
 
I love Burgundy, David, and in Burgundy, my chief love is Meursault. I very often get mineral, pear, lenon or lime, nuttiness and just plain class out of a bottle. Like the others, I adore Coche, Roulot, PYCM (his 08 Genevrieres for the Hospice was my WOTY 2 years ago), D'Auvenay and Boillot, but can't come close to affording any of these. The only place I can buy Coche is at Aupres du Clocher, see below from recent trip:


"2012 Coche-Dury Meursault

So (perhaps of course, and nod of thanks yet again to Don Cornutt) I opened this for Lynn and Jon, my very close friends who are doing this tour of Burgundy and Alsace with me, at Aupres du Clocher in Pommard, because a) they'd never had a Coche before, b) this is only about my third, and c) the price the restaurant is running it out at is stupid-good. (dinner, BTW, was fabulous with the epoisse mousse off-the-scale good).

Nose immediately grabs your attention with some matchstick and, Lynn finds, a pervasive undertone of tobacco, which eventually I find swirls up as well, all around hinted-at apple and pear. Matchstick, apple and pear replays in the main with perhaps some marzipan and light saline and truffle added in, but that's not what this wine is about. This wine is about the force of character which is really a force of nature. In whisky terms, this has "bags of character" and reinforces that there just isn't anything like it out there at all. Get this, gang----we tried it with their jambon persille ravioli, and it was super-delish. Then came the beef dish in a rich sauce. I had ordered a glass of 2011 Meo Camuzet Gevrey, and it was OK with the dish, emitting some clarity and red fruit polish. The Coche meanwhile? The Coche *kicked ass*. I kid you not. It was a better match with the meat than the red. An absolutely brilliant wine, especially for something this young, one of those I can still taste today and that I will remember for a long time. 98+, it only fails to be perfect because it is still so very, very young."

In the vineyards, I actually prefer Genevrieres above the others. There, Bouchard really does a fine job for my marks.

Alex---I didn't know Patrick was making wine for Buisson-Charles! Their 11 Bouches-Cheres was wonderful (see below, out of 109 wines poured on that day, I ranked it #8). Francois and Remy Jobard have given me pleasure for a nearly affordable price, worth looking into. On the trip, Olivier Leflaive surprised me with a very fine Santenots that I ended up buying a bottle of.

I'll include for interest's sake some notes from my WineFest last July, when I did a Meursault horizontal and pulled 8 1ers and 2 Lieu-Dits together to taste at once.

2012 Domaine De Montille Meursault Perrieres

On opening, lovely hazelnut and brazil nut scents. Nougat and underlying flinty sniffs too. A wine of great class and energy. Fills the mouth with sparky lemon and stone leads, with more nuts and ginger in the back. Such tremendous, elegant length, this is a stunner of which good examples will go out at least 20 years.

2009 Domaine Leflaive Meursault Sous Les Dos D’Ane

Still that abundant gunflint and bit of sulphur that characterizes a lot of DL. Really on the matchstick side. This shows an initial round feel but quickly grabs at your tongue with lemon-lime, stone and hint of hazelnut. Short-ish finish, though, will be interested to see others’ notes with a day’s air (I wasn’t able to get back to this, sadly)

2008 Marquis D’Angerville Meursault Santenots

Tropical scents here—dragon fruit and papaya curl around mineral and tick of mustard. This may be getting to tipping, but it is still very dry and forceful with apple and baked bread notes at the back. Great to try one of these (I was told by a couple others later that it had, indeed, faded)

2001 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets

Bouquet of lemon meringue pie…and so much else lurking underneath. This is simply sterling to taste---so much life still—lemon and mineral and the Roulot steel. And the thing of it is, it all comes together in a fashion that bespeaks royalty for the commune. #3, this was one of the superstars today and I’d probably bestow a 93 or so on it. One of those I wish I had another taste of!

2011 Buisson Charles Meursault Bouches Cheres

Lemon-lime, nuts, ginger—plenty of activity. This has a roundness the others don’t—still with drive and and a real savoury element. Lime repeat and some delicious herbs. This is a tremendously engaging wine.

2013 Lucien Muzard Meursault Les Meix Chavaux

A good smoked forest floor background to lemon-balm and some definite balsam in the nose. With a full day’s air, very lilting and dances across the tastebuds with white flowers, lemondrop, touch of saline at the back and some apple crisp. Quite good.

2012 Remi Jobard Meursault Poruzots-Dessus

An almost-fresh minerality here interspersed with juniper and lime. And a tremendous elegance on the tongue, great fundamental lime and minerals, but with a yellow fruit and sunshine-y frame. Very, very good and an archetype for the 2012 vintage, I think. I’m going to get more of this for sure.

2008 Bouchard Meursault Genevrieres

Really fine-tuned bouquet now, pears vie with lime, snip of thyme and a smoky minerality. And man, this is so consistently shudderlicious. Still fresh, but also super-long with lemon, lime a bit of sweet grapefruit and nutty finish. I could drink down a whole bottle of this and still have an ongoing conversation, not one of these bottles has disappointed me. This is absolutely super, 95, probably the best of the 8 or so that I’ve had and, remarkably #1 and WOTD.

2010 F & L Pillot Meursault Caillerets

Man, 2 days later this smells like a friggin' Chevy. Pure matchstick, approaching diesel, intermixed with lilac and acacia. Herbal undertone to sweet lemon and some pear. Very pretty indeed, it drives through the mouth and down the throat without lingering, taking the hazelnut and lemongrass mains with it. In the aftertaste, a real interesting almost coffee crisp-without-the-chocolate nuance. Fascinating.

2011 Maison Roche de Bellene Meursault Charmes

A little gunflint here too, but it is less of the focus, where here light nutty tinged with butterscotch and pear and apple hold sway in the aroma. This is perhaps the gentlest and most elegant of the bunch, having perfect balance and precision as it dances across the tongue. Mists away and yet still focused with lemon, pear skin and a very slight salinity. One to meditate on.
 
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Mike,

Thanks for sharing.
No, I definitely don't consider Buisson-Charles a second-rate producer.
And one gets so tired, so very tired of the overpriced superstars that don't always deserve their reputation (not saying this is the case for Coche-Dury, but it is for some of the others!)

Patrick Essa married Kate Buisson of Buisson Charles. He is a teacher, wine writer, man-about-Burgundy, and wine taster extraordinaire (I have never, ever seen anyone blind taste like him).

Alex R.
 
Mike there's a restaurant (bistro food at best) just outside Beaune which sells Coche-Dury at 50% UK retail. It's a half-kept secret (I was kindly tipped off by a Forumite) but would happily share the name by PM.
There is the added bonus that K & I can cycle there, from where we stay.
 
Or how high priced Meursault is becoming. Perfectly normal stuff is £50 a bottle now. How is the working man to afford his Meursault?

A classic Thom quote, brilliant stuff sir !

Aside from all the previously mentioned domaines, I've really enjoyed Ballot-Millot meursaults once they hit 1er level
 
This might be a good time to get some input on Frank Grux's personal venture as his wines cost considerably less than those mentioned. Any experience at all? I can get his Les Meix Chavaux for half the price of Roulot from the same vintages, which whilst not cheap is..well.. half the price of Roulot!

Don't have any experience of Frank Grux's current venture but it may have been forgotten that he was lending a hand making the wines at Chez Roulot during some of the time in the mid eighties. Just a thought.
 
Francois Jobard, Robert Ampeau, Pierre Morey and Francois Mikulski are worth consideration (IMHO). Don't forget the negociants either; Drouhin and Jadot.

I agree with Clive's descriptions for the most part. Don't overlook Goutte d'Or which can prodcue some excellent wines. Narvaux and tesson, not being 1er cru, are still very high quality in the right hands.

Yes, I would be interested in an offline but date depending as always.
 
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