Weekend 12-14 February 2021

Difficult Valentine's lunch today as Isabelle lost a sense of smell and taste (not 100% though). Was a kind of selfish event but I downgraded on the wines for better days...
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I was lucky to find the first local asparagus at the market on Friday (grown in greenhouse, he hardly had any to sell but they looked glorious and how/when do you expect to be able to marry winter truffle and local asparagus?) and the latest picked Luberon truffles (20 Euros for 29 grams from the picker) all prepared with some guinea fowls breats. Sauce was Guinea fowl (carcasse) and vegetable stock with whitewine and fresh cream with slices of truffle added in several steps in the later stages of preparation. This was so good...

All this washed down by Mugneret Gibourg Bourgogne rouge 2014 (opened last night and better today)

We then moved to the wonderful Comte 48 months (does not come often) well complemented by the MG

...and to the wonderful Mousse au chocolat (Guanaja by Valrhona) prepared by Isabelle and washed down by W Schaefer Himmelreich Auslese 2012... (had planned the 2009, but kept it for better days) which came out rather well given the bad vintage review and my low expectations. Not the best, but good fit with the mousse and nicely nuanced.
 
Three very different wines this weekend. All were truly lovely in their own way.

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The Lafon Macon-Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette 2014 was outstanding for what it was. It was full of interest, intensely flavoured and beautifully balanced. I’ve had many white wines from renowned villages in the Cote d’Or that didn’t come close to this in quality. It evolved positively over the time taken to drink it. Regrettably it was a single bottle (ex D Byrne & Co as is apparent from the price sticker) which I bought because I’d not had a Lafon Macon since the early years of that venture, when I didn’t find them particularly special, and I wanted to see how they’d come on. I wish I had a case of this!

The Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec 2007 looked and, initially, smelled as though it might be on the madeirising downslope. But with air it blossomed into a nicely honeyed, mature chenin blanc. I’d made a classic beurre blanc sauce to accompany some nice fillets of sea trout and the wine was perfect with that.

The Wirra Wirra RSW Shiraz 2003 was proper, old-skool McLaren Vale shiraz, of high quality. There was plenty of fruit still, balanced by fine tannin. It wasn’t blousy or obvious in the slightest and it made a very good, well-flavoured accompaniment to grilled rib-eye steaks.

It being St Valentine’s weekend we also had a bottle of Lanson rose that I’d bought in December 2012, which was much better than expected. It still had a background flavour of strawberry and also just the slightest hint of an oxidative note, just sufficient to provide interest. The mousse was fine and persistent.
 
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1997 Punset Barbaresco Campo Quadro last night, a random singleton from early in my wine buying days. Had left this one a little too long. Still a rather highly structured wine there, with both acid and tannin, but not so much on the other side of the equation, and some oxi-ish marmite on the nose. By no means undrinkable but not on a par with aged Produttori, for instance (though I don't know the 97s).
 
A champagne and burgundy weekend.

The Egly was lovely. A previous bottle from the same batch (disgorged July 2015 after 48 months in the bottle) was a little oxidised but this bottle was in a really good place, despite the deep colour, between freshness and maturity. Lots going on here, lemon tart, pear, crunchy bar honeycomb, beurre noisette, cream, vanilla and bruised apple.
The Clos de Reas was just about in its drinking window I think. There was fruit (not a given based on my red burgundy experience) but the acidity was pretty high and its only just showing signs of development. I think this will come good but it didn't dazzle us.

Pavelot still to come. Fingers are crossed, it smells great.

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To accompany a Venison Wellington, sourced via Vito, a local restauranteur and Sommelier (which was excellent) we opened a 2000 Dom P which was perfect, hardly a pop when I opened it and a very delicate Champagne emerged with just a welcome hint of oxidation on the finish. Truly wonderful and thanks to Steve Pritchard! Followed with a half via Coravin of Massolino Vigna Rionda 2005 which was unfortunately rather surly and not giving too much away. I have some magnums which I will keep for another 10 years on this showing.
 
Apropos of another thread, I do like a good Wellington and on the infrequent occasions that I have been able to find kosher venison have thoroughly enjoyed eating that so the thought of a Venison Wellington is most alluring, albeit unfortunately improbable.
 
Friday night, the Champagne because we deserved it and the Auslese because it had been too long since I'd had one (and at 7%, it basically doesn't count, does it):

  • NV Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée No. 738 Dégorgement Tardif - France, Champagne (2/12/2021)
    2019 disgorgement/2010 base. Very full-bodied in all respects: dark colour, strong yeasty nose (although there are some more delicate floral scents too), fills the mouth with loads of flavour, Marmite on the finish. It reminds me of the Egly-Ouriet VP but without that wine's energy. Although there's little dosage, the richness of the fruit gives a contrary impression. Fine, but maybe a little boring. (92 pts.)
  • 2008 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (2/11/2021)
    Very floral and restrained, with hints of cream. Incredibly elegant, but there's not a great deal going on and acidity is slightly low. Possible slight TCA as there's a faint mustiness towards the end of each sniff, although the palate seems fine (if a little dull). Oh well. (89 pts.)

Saturday night, with the Northcote box:

  • 2010 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (2/13/2021)
    This wine has a reputation for premox, but the bottle we had was in splendid condition - arguably, in fact, still overly youthful. Very 'big' in all respects, like the red 2010s in that respect - lots of colour, aroma, texture, acidity and oak. The most significant aspects were the tidal wave of pineapple fruit and the pervading waft of vanillins; with air the oily, waxy quality of the Semillon became increasingly obvious. I really enjoyed this, but a few more years for the oak to integrate would make it even better. (92 pts.)
  • 2016 Riecine Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (2/13/2021)
    Very simple and high-toned for the first 20 minutes or so, making me think this was of supermarket wine quality; however, with some air the fruit became less screechy and a delicious savoury note appeared. Overall view: competent and deserves more time. (89 pts.)

Tonight, with roast chicken:

  • 2002 Domaine Jean Grivot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (2/14/2021)
    This has come on a lot since my last bottle in 2019, and feels in its drinking window now. The acid remains on the prominent side but now feels much more integrated. Attractive notes of rose, cherry and soy - there's a little tertiary development now. Will try another bottle in a year or two's time. (91 pts.)

In conclusion, no smash hits, but a pretty good weekend. If I could have one of them again next weekend? The DDC Blanc is the one I can still taste now if I think about it.
 
A wonderful Chablis Montee de Tonnerre 2011, Duplessis.Ready to drink in that it is fantastically enjoyable, sleek and green with tremendous depth, length and lift with some of the truffles that will undoubtedly emerge just peeking out of the soil, but my guess is that this will gradually become even more exciting for another couple of decades. Unfortunately there's no way of knowing so I'll drink the few I have left at home and forget about the case in storage for as long as I dare.
What gives me particular pleasure is that this wine couldn't be mistaken for one from the Cote D'Or in a million years.
 
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A few nice things this weekend. The 90 DP appeared very funky and possibly corked at first and we feared the worst. So we moved into the Dassai 23 which was lovely. Ripe pear, white flowers and even some tropical pineapple. It was rich and full on the palate again with tropical notes. It worked perfectly with mixed sashimi.

We then returned to the DP and it had totally cleared up. Lovely marzipan and cotton candy on the nose. It is rich and luxurious on the palate, the acidity is nice and vibrant, notes of quince dance around the tongue. It really is very fine. We were so glad the taint totally blew off!

Finally we opened a Ledru. This felt positively muscular compared to the DP but it had a lovely freshness to it, and great salinity on the nose. The palate is well textured and benefits from the five or six years it’s been in the cellar. Really rather good and a pleasing way to end the evening.
 
I rarely bother with Boredeaux these days but so many fans of natural wine here have praised Ch. Le Puy "Emilien" 2016 (AC Côtes de Bordeaux; 13% abv; c.46€) that I decided to try one. And ok, I'll admit, Bordeaux can occasionally be nice. This is a Merlot-based blend aged in foudres and smells like it's old wood rather than new. There's a nice lift to the dark fruit so I guess that's the Cab Franc bringing its magic into the blend (I love CF). Youthful but open but with lovely tobacco leaf aromas in addition to young fruit. Ripe but with pretty amazing acidity. I normally think of Bordeaux as low acid with tannin causing the structure but here it's both acid and tannin. Lovely wine though seems pretty conventional (except no new oak aromas) to me and the only way I'd know it was "natural" Bordeaux is by reading it on the label. Buy again? Hahah nope. Silly price when half the price brings me equal or greater enjoyment elsewhere. But it is a lovely wine. If someone else pays I'll be happy to drink tons of this.

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A couple of lovely wines today. First up Louis Roederer 2013 rose for a Valentines tipple with some salmon blinis

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Not much to say other than this is delicious. Last bottle a lot more austere but this was just so gluggable. I’m no pink champagne expert but this seemed in a very good place.

Then with roast chicken a favourite of mine on top form. Honeyed peaches and lime acidity. Puts many a meursault to shame...

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Last night we opened a 2006 Fourrier GC Goulots, recently brought from a forumite, showing a bit of sous bois alongside the fruit and in quite a lovely spot.
this evening I thought we should try a 2017 Potazzine Rosso di Montalcino but that wasn’t a great idea as it was pretty tight and unforgiving, even after 3 hours or more in a decanter it was only grudgingly giving you a little hint of what it could be, hey ho, better luck next time
 
Antoine Singer said:
Difficult Valentine's lunch today as Isabelle lost a sense of smell and taste (not 100% though). Was a kind of selfish event but I downgraded on the wines for better days...
View attachment 17427
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I was lucky to find the first local asparagus at the market on Friday (grown in greenhouse, he hardly had any to sell but they looked glorious and how/when do you expect to be able to marry winter truffle and local asparagus?) and the latest picked Luberon truffles (20 Euros for 29 grams from the picker) all prepared with some guinea fowls breats. Sauce was Guinea fowl (carcasse) and vegetable stock with whitewine and fresh cream with slices of truffle added in several steps in the later stages of preparation. This was so good...

All this washed down by Mugneret Gibourg Bourgogne rouge 2014 (opened last night and better today)

We then moved to the wonderful Comte 48 months (does not come often) well complemented by the MG

...and to the wonderful Mousse au chocolat (Guanaja by Valrhona) prepared by Isabelle and washed down by W Schaefer Himmelreich Auslese 2012... (had planned the 2009, but kept it for better days) which came out rather well given the bad vintage review and my low expectations. Not the best, but good fit with the mousse and nicely nuanced.
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Sorry to hear about Isabelle, hope she's ok and that you will remain so!
I'd love to know more about the M-G BR, I have a case in storage...
 
Simon Reilly said:
A couple of lovely wines today. First up Louis Roederer 2013 rose for a Valentines tipple with some salmon blinis

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Not much to say other than this is delicious. Last bottle a lot more austere but this was just so gluggable. I’m no pink champagne expert but this seemed in a very good place.

Then with roast chicken a favourite of mine on top form. Honeyed peaches and lime acidity. Puts many a meursault to shame...

View attachment 17443
Click to expand...
A lovely wine. In a moment of recklessness gave my final bottle away.
 
Chris Davies said:
A champagne and burgundy weekend.

The Egly was lovely. A previous bottle from the same batch (disgorged July 2015 after 48 months in the bottle) was a little oxidised but this bottle was in a really good place, despite the deep colour, between freshness and maturity. Lots going on here, lemon tart, pear, crunchy bar honeycomb, beurre noisette, cream, vanilla and bruised apple.
The Clos de Reas was just about in its drinking window I think. There was fruit (not a given based on my red burgundy experience) but the acidity was pretty high and its only just showing signs of development. I think this will come good but it didn't dazzle us.

Pavelot still to come. Fingers are crossed.
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The Pavelot was quite good but in a similar place to the Vosne. Nice fruit so not shut down but not much other development. Decent but no fireworks.

Star of the show was some terrific beef rib from Quality Chop House Shop. Spinalis and cap especially tasty. Koffman's potatoes also delicious.

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Veronica Ortega, 'Quite' 2018, was well-made and approachable, but more weighty and plush than I was expecting, despite having had a few bottles over the past 6 months. For some reason I often find this with mencia, and the fault is mine not the winemaker's or the grape's. Murgo, Etna Bianco 2017, a simple pleasure of lemon, herbs and salt. Then Musar rouge '01. This was 3/12, and all quite different so far - this resembled a slightly wild, maturing burgundy (though I've no great familiarity with mature burg or Musar). The cork came out easily and appeared surprisingly robust, but then promptly snapped in half when I was sticking it back in the bottle at the end of the day. A lesson there, perhaps.
 
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