
I don’t think I’ve ever had a Drouhin Volnay of any description before, and I may have had a ‘79 burgundy but cannot recall. Anyway, this Drouhin Volnay Clos des Chenes 1979, picked up at Hedonism earlier this week, is in remarkably good nick, especially considering that it’s been back and forth across the Atlantic (label states it’s a US import, for Dreyfus Ashby).
The main point is that it’s not over the hill by any means, and very clearly of 1er cru quality. The colour is pretty clear and translucent (and indeed it was the promising colour evident in the shop, through the very pale, almost clear glass of the bottle, that persuaded me it was worth a punt). Not an especially beguiling bouquet, but certainly nothing offputting or even funky. It’s the palate that is the most surprising, in that there’s still some fruit, and if tasting blind I’d have put this in the 90s. A nice line of acidity still, and not too much of a sense of this being past it, in fact it improves in the glass. It’s fully mature but with a surprisingly modern elegance.
Hedonism is generally rather overpriced, but I think that this at £128 represents something approaching value, given that’s the same retail price as a Lafarge Clos des Chenes in a lesser recent vintage such as ‘11 or ‘13. Hedonism has had a run of mature burgundies in recent months, they tell me more are coming, another recent surprising success from them was a Bouchard Nuits St Georges Clos des Argillieres 1997, which was c.£70 if I recall. They also have the ‘79 Drouhin village Volnay (at £66), which is what I had spotted on their website, but that looked rather brown and cloudy compared to this one which was next to it on the shelf. Very pleased I decided to trade up to this.