TN 2010 Wittmann Morstein GG - a masterpiece of Dry Riesling

On sunday I had this magic Grosses Gewächs/Grand Cru Dry Riesling from Rheinhessen.


2010 Wittmann "Morstein" GG

A real masterpiece of Dry Riesling. It's all about saltiness, purity, minerality and power.
Still such youthful and a loooong life ahead. Also again proves that 2010 is one of my favorite vintages for dry Riesling.

Site: Weingut Wittmann - Sites

96-97/100


WMorstein16.jpg



Cheers,
Martin
 
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Thx for the note Martin, how do you rate 12, 13, 14 and 15 against 10? I love the elegant vintages and the raging acidity of 10 but have no experience of GG so would be interested to hear your views.
 
Thx for the note Martin, how do you rate 12, 13, 14 and 15 against 10? I love the elegant vintages and the raging acidity of 10 but have no experience of GG so would be interested to hear your views.


Christopher,

2012 Morstein GG seems a notch better than 2010, but we have to look in 5-10+ years. 2013 is a cool climate vintage like 2010 looks promising. 2014 I was not such impressed, we will see in the future. 2015 Morstein GG I haven´t tasted so far, but looks very, very promising.

Here some notes about a MORSTEIN-vertical in 2014 in Berlin.


In general the Morstein Riesling is marked by stone fruit, limestone, tobacco and power.

Site
Morstein is situated on the south-facing slope that stretches from Gundersheim to Westhofen. The subsoil consists of massive limestone rocks. The first documented mention of the site dates from 1282. Today, we own about 4 ha (10 acres) in the best (southeastern exposure) parcel of this vineyard.

Soil
The upper layer of soil is primarily heavy clayish marl interspersed with limestone. The subsoil is also heavy and marked by layers of limestone that help circulate water. This ensures that the vines are well supplied with nutrients and minerals, and accounts for the mineral character of our Morstein.



My favorite vintages of the vertical were of course the cool climate vintages 2004, 2008, 2010 and 2012. And I was also impressed by the wonderful 2007 and I was really surprised of the performance by 2003 "Am Turm". We also had the auction wine 2011 "La Borne" which is a magic white wine and could easily compete with the best Burgundy has to offer.








Morstein GG 2012

Very, very closed at this night. From sip to sip the brilliancy flashed up. But this happens with outstanding wines sometimes, they doesn´t perform such brilliantly every night or like the famous austrian winemaker Lucas Pichler said "“Große Weine müssen nicht immer und zu jeder Zeit gut sein”. Anyway, on the last tastings in Wiesbaden and Berlin I gave him 95-96/100. BUY


Morstein GG 2011

This is not my ideal of a Morstein. I missed finesse, precision, clarity, brilliance. Also quite developed already. Not suitable for long storage, I would drink it now or in the next 3-5 years. On the other hand it offers a lot of drinking pleasure due to its opulent fruit. Ein Maul voll Wein. 91/100


Morstein GG 2010

My favorite vintage for Dry Riesling marked by precision, acidity, purity and minerality. Looong life ahead. The vintage 2012 will certainly top it in the long run. But we will see in 10 years. 94/100


Morstein GG 2009

Quite strange performance, such diffuse flavors. Maybe not in the mood right now? Bad bottle??


Morstein GG 2008

A vintage for freaks. No doubt, a very special vintage. Not everybody´s cup of Riesling. I like it. Quite similar to the vintage 2010, but a bit more wild. Big future. 93+/100


Morstein GG 2007

A role-model for Dry Riesling. It has everything to offer what the people like regarding Riesling, fruit&minerality&freshness&finesse and drinking pleasure. Here we have what MORSTEIN is all about, stone fruit, limestone, tobacco and power. Wonderful to drink right now, but no hurry. 93/100


Morstein GG 2006

Quite difficult vintage in Rheinhessen. A lot of rain in autumnn which means the wines are marked by botrytis.


Morstein GG 2005

Quite nice performance. Not really an outstanding vintage. Anyway offers a lot of drinking pleasure. Drink it now. 91/100


Morstein GG 2004

Finesse par excellance. Absolutely gorgeous structure&texture, like the palate will we wrapped in silk. In addition a hint of the former brute minerality. A few months ago I had even a better bottle in the famous CORDOBAR. 92-93/100


Morstein GG 2003

Too big, too broad. 90/100


Morstein “Am Turm” Alte Reben 2003

WOW, what a surprising performance for such a hot vintage. Such subtle&sublime. No wonder, here we have 10g RS 92/100


“La Borne” Alte Reben 2011 – auction wine

A masterpiece! Shows the complexity&lenght of an outstanding white whine. Could easily compete with the best white wines in the World. 96/100


Cheers,
Martin
 
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Thank you Martin. Do you find that the dry whites can be as ethereal as the kabinetts, Spatlese etc? Or does the added alcohol make them too heavy?

Do you enjoy Heymann-Lowenstein Uhlen Roth Lay Gross Lage?
 
Thank you Martin. Do you find that the dry whites can be as ethereal as the kabinetts, Spatlese etc? Or does the added alcohol make them too heavy?

Do you enjoy Heymann-Lowenstein Uhlen Roth Lay Gross Lage?

Christopher,

of course, right now I have a 2009 Dönnhoff "Hermannshöhle" GG in my glass. Magic. Despite the hot vintage, the wine is such elegant and shows remarkable finesse. GREAT. 93-94/100

Roth-Lay can be magic, look for 2007 and the vintages starting with 2012.

Cheers,
Martin
 
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This was our recent experience with Wittmann, really very impressive indeed! Stimulated a desire to explore further.

Starter

Poached Lindisfarne Oysters, East Lothian Leeks & Summer Truffle. Really good dish. Oysters poached in a rich creamy broth, with crunchy leeks and slices of truffle.

J J Prum, Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese 2007

Light straw. Young but giving out plenty. Ripe apples, sweet pears, touch of white peach, the fruits just go on and on. Fine acidity, real steely mineral presence. Some light honey, not too sweet, real Spatlese. Great energy and liveliness. Lovely now, last for a long time.

Wittmann Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grobes Gewachs 2007

Mid gold, green flashing through. Tremendous depth. Lime and white flowers. Ripe honeydew melon. Light honey. Some limestone or chalk. Great acidity. Very long. Great wine. Drinking well but will go on for quite some time. Dry Riesling is a great food wine, hints of Clare Valley but this one definitely from Germany.

This wine pairing was great fun and a lovely contrast. Both were very good with a very good plate of food, just completely different. Dish & wine pairing of the night for me.
 
When in Rome Claude.. (well Berlin in this case). :)

I’ve continued to try and sample dry versions when possible, and have learned not to think of them as two sides of the same coin. Rather as completely different with different purposes.

I even take some Keller, Wittmann and Lauer into the cellar. At a ratio of about 1:10.
 
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