Aligoté

Discussion in 'UK Wine Forum' started by David Crossley, Aug 10, 2017.

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  1. Sorry Tom, I couldn't resist, but I've genuinely been loving Aligoté for a long time. I started the thread partly as I have been mocked for liking it. There are many rather grand Aligotés, such as Coche-Dury, which I have had on occasion, but I think there are some great wines at far better prices.

    When young, and made with high yields, then the term "battery acid" is not far from the mark. But well handled it can even start to taste a little like Chardonnay from certain Burgundian terroirs.

    Eeeeeh wen aye were a lad it used tro be Aubert's Bouzeron which was "the one", but for me, it is now supplanted at the top of the pile. My three of the moment are:
    • De Moor (the posh version if you can find it, but the rare "ordinary" bottling is almost as good);
    • Goisot;
    • Pataille

    In many cases large old oak ageing rounds out the wine, and organic etc production often makes wines of purity and vivacity without the extremely sharp acids of old. You get acidity, but roundness and a bit of texture as well.

    What I have not come across (afairecall) is a non-French Aligoté?

    What are your own recommended Aligotés, and what do you think of the variety? Although the older writers usually persist with the "often ignored and forgotten by producers" line, I have no doubt that, for several reasons, the variety is making a comeback in its heartland, and has been for a while.

    Are there any other grape varieties Aligoté lovers like to use as a substitute?
     
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  2. The ones I've bought, following an aligoté dinner at the Square a couple of years back, are PYCM and Ente. Still have a few bottles of the de Villaine but I've not felt the need to repurchase that.

    The most impressive I've tasted? d'Auvenay's Sous Chatelet 09. Coche 09 was good too (I preferred it to the 01 you brought to a Ledbury wimps).
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2017
  3. Had a "natural" Aligoté from Nicolas Vaulthier, under his Vini Viti Vinci label called Bréau. I think you'd like it, David.

    He also does an extended maceration version which I'm going to seek out.
     
  4. Lots of Aligoté in Romania, Moldova, Ukraine, David - amazed you haven't been sampling it!

    The Loire has lots of opportunity for similarly overlooked grapes, though I think I would go more Romorantin than Chasselas.
     
  5. I love the variety and it always looks good value when compared with that other white varietal that's grown in Burgundy!

    Favourites of mine are the 100 year old vine MSD 1er cru Monts Luisants from Ponsot, Bouzeron from Ramonet, Sylvie Esmonin and the various offerings from Pataille. I believe that Andrew of Le Grappin fame will be making an Aligote for the first time this vintage so that will be one to keep an eye out for I'm sure.
     
  6. Jasper, I've had the odd Romanian one, which actually reminds me that Mark Haisma's (the Burgundian version) was pretty excellent when I tasted it in London this year. I've not, I'm sorry to say, actually bought any :oops:. Not yet found a Romanian version to take my heart from those I listed above.

    Romorantin is a good call. There are some similarities with Aligoté, at least in being a region's veritable second string white grape. We have friends who have a house near Cheverny, where it has its Cour-Cheverny heartland, not far from Romorantin itself. This means that I have tried many less than great versions, but one or two very good ones. But as we are drifting off thread, and I may have your attention, I also believe there is a mirror situation with red varieties. There seems to be a bit of a revival of Pineau d'Aunis on the Loire, producing some lovely lighter reds.

    I like Swiss Chasselas when done well, though perhaps prefering more the aperitif style of La Côte (with that faint CO2 prickle), and the deeper versions from Lavaux's Crus, over the Valais' "Fendent" style.

    Les Vignes du Paradis, made by Dominique Lucas up by "Lake Geneva" in the old Marin AOP (but released as an Allobroges IGT) might just be France's most promising version (perhaps more than Loire?). That's ironic, considering that the previous Marin wines I've bought (admittedly usually in small grocery stores in and around Evian) have tasted literally as if they were battery acid. Jasper, do you know Dominique Lucas from the family's Hautes-Côtes holdings in your own neck of the woods?
     
  7. I don't think I've ever had a top example of Aligote although I'd love to find some. I've got Louis Jadot's basic bottling ready for sometime next week and I recently had a very nice glass of Ramonet's Bourgogne Aligote which was very refreshing. I can see it being the sort of wine that doesn't impress so much as blending into a dinner/social occasion quite seamlessly, which is increasingly important for me.

    It seems all the bottlings out here are 'Bourgogne' with no vineyard or area specified. A shame.
     
  8. I'm another fan, in some ways preferring it to chardonnay. If the best examples of Ponsot's Clos des Monts Luisants are anything to go by I'd like to see what it does in more vaunted sites. As well as those mentioned above the Domaine Ramonet bottling, Bruno Clavelier, Bouchard's outstandingly good Bouzeron(I like it MUCH more than the Villaine) and Rollin are some others worth looking at.
    The D'Auvenay mentioned above by Simon was beyond belief-what on earth does she do to make this wine, of indescribable decadence and opulence?
     
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  9. +1 on Ponsot MSD Luisants 1er and Ramonet Bouzeron. I have some 2008 of the former which I am constantly tempted to open more bottles of.

    The Coche version can be very nice (2011 most recently, I think), but I don't feel like it justifies the extra cost as the Coche chards do.
     
  10. Has anyone tasted the rare and expensive Pataille lieux-dit versions?
     
  11. Do I expose myself as a heathen if I say that Gros Plant is often a much cheaper alternate in my house.
     
  12. It can be a wonderful thing, Russell. In general its acidity is superior to that of Aligoté, which contrary to the popular view has no tendency to excess in my experience. I wish I had some more of that Bregeon.
     
  13. Oh we don't even get fancy with producers. Often just buying the most expensive in the shop. The bill topples €4 sometimes!
     
  14. Naudin-Ferrand from old vines and long lees contact is still the best I've had. Both the "A 007" and "Le Clou 34" are still some of the most profound whites I've had.
     
  15. No I don't David - which village are they in?

    On the Aligoté front I would add Comte Armand - just started my case of 2010 and it is even better after the bottles have been open a day or two
     
  16. I'm a fan of Comte Amand's. Previously, I've obtained it from M3 depot.
    Mark Haisma's '16 tasted at his cave was very good & hopefully I'll secure some.
    Alternatives? Certain 'new style' Muscadet.
    Ultimately, I see Aligoté as an occasional diversion.
     
  17. At the more modest end, Dubreuil-Fontaine and Jerome Castagnier make very good Aligote but the best I've tasted is Mikulski.
    Surprised no-one has mentioned Lafarge yet.
     
  18. I'd forgotten Mikulski, very good. Lafarge has not been for me, there seems a sort of gloopy quality to their whites.
     
  19. Chanzy.

    Best I've tasted after AdV & Ramonet ......
     
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  20. Cracked open a 2001 Domaine Roulot Bourgogne Aligote tonight. Really expressive notes of white flower, bruised green apples, ginger and "Custard Cream Biscuits"! Takes a while to get into its stride and the first thing that strikes you is the fierce, rapier like acidity and a touch of tannin. This wine is really quite youthful for a 16 year old wine and structurally feels quite tight still; maybe it will open up with air. Palate is citrusy with a noticeable chalky finish. Some might prefer a little more weight in the mid palate but it is present; it's just very subtle. Very impressive bottle and dare I say infanticide on my part!

    image.jpg
     
  21. Interesting you should mention this David. I seem to have a bottle of the Villaine Bouzeron 2014. No mention on the label that it is Aligote at all, but I had figured that out.

    I see Villiane mentioned a couple of times above as if everyone knows who they are, I realise there is a DRC connection. Should I assume they are sort of the Bouzeron equivalent of Cloudy Bay? The best known winery in the region?

    If so how you rate them? And what is the aging ability of Aligote? When should my lone bottle be consumed?
     
  22. Mark, that wine sounds ravishing!
     
  23. I've never had one that old, Mark, how intriguing, particularly as Roulot's version has not seemed any better than one would expect(which is pretty good, of course).
     
  24. Anybody tasted the Aligote from Denis Bachelet and if so any views / thoughts on style?
     
  25. (thread resurrection here!)

    - since when I have had a bottle of Agnes Paquet's Aligoté Crémant de Bourgogne, which is made using the méthode ancestrale rather than champenoise. It seems to be pressurised to double the usual pressure and comes under crown cap. So you have to open it outside, as the top comes off with a heck of a pop, and you lose at least quarter of the bottle. But it tastes much as you might guess. You could even use it to make a Kir royale that's more authentic than the real thing!
     

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