SYRAH BATTLE: NORTHERN RHONE VS SOUTH AFRICA - Cabotte (01/06/2023)
Following an interesting discussion about how good the Minimalist Wines Stars in the Dark is, Gareth convened a dinner to include that wine as well as some excellent Syrahs from the Rhone and South Africa.
The wines were not served blind, which with hindsight made little difference as there wouldn't have been any doubt which ones were Old and which New World.
Miso glazed pork belly, malted shiitakes, charred baby onion & bok choy
South Africa placed first and second in the group vote!
Following an interesting discussion about how good the Minimalist Wines Stars in the Dark is, Gareth convened a dinner to include that wine as well as some excellent Syrahs from the Rhone and South Africa.
The wines were not served blind, which with hindsight made little difference as there wouldn't have been any doubt which ones were Old and which New World.
Miso glazed pork belly, malted shiitakes, charred baby onion & bok choy
- 2005 Sadie Family Columella - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland
Popped and poured, but immediately impressive. Rather heady, plummy nose (the 14% ABV showing somewhat), with the scent of dark, meaty Bovril and some stylish oak; it was obvious that this was the New World member of the flight, and it reminded many of us of an Australian style of wine. Pretty glorious on the youthful, fruit-forward palate, with some tapenade that modulated wonderfully into a superb, very persistent blackcurranty finish. Going back to this wine after drinking the next few did emphasise the wine's thickness and ripeness (and, presumably, the 20% Mourvedre), but it was undeniably delicious, excellent with the food, and a deserved #2 in the group vote. (94 pts.) - 2006 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Double-decanted around 90 minutes before we drank it. Very savoury and evolved compared to the Columella alongside it, the nose also showing Asian spice and blooming, becoming sweeter and fruitier, with time in the glass. On the palate again savoury and on the leaner, more elegant side, with some briney tomato, a silkiness and a lingering darker-toned finish. With air some red fruit showed up on the palate and the tannins bulked up a bit to give the wine more grip and less silk. Perhaps not shown to its best advantage with the Columella, this was still a complex and delicious wine, and great with the food, and was voted the group's #3 wine. (93 pts.)
- 2010 Mullineux Syrah Schist - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland
Popped and poured. This was a lovely wine. The soft, truffley nose was open and attractive but slightly subdued. The palate had the same airy and unassuming nature, with dark fruit, blood and iron and a subtle grip, the overall effect being cool, mineral, precise and compelling. Group WOTN (but I rated it third behind the more demonstrative Peroline and Columella). (94 pts.) - 2010 Domaine Vincent Paris Cornas Granit 60 - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
This wasn't hugely corked, but there was enough TCA for us to tip this after a couple of sips and open a back-up. NR (flawed) - 2007 Domaine Vincent Paris Cornas La Geynale - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Opened as a back-up, and initial impressions were mixed, this wine being on the funky side (and a total contrast to the sleek Mullineux it was paired with). That said, this wine ended up also showing very well once it had settled down, the funk becoming smoky and more seductive, and the high-acid palate becoming juicy and full and developing a tempting flavour of red boiled sweets. Due to the acidity and red fruit this wine was superb with the duck and beetroot dish, too. (93 pts.)
- 2015 Mullineux Syrah Granite - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland
Magnum, decanted around two hours. For the first time tonight I got the feeling that the wine was a little young, but there was still a lot to enjoy. Raw, pure dark fruit on the bright nose. I detected a touch of heat on the palate, and enjoyed the classic Syrah notes of blood and iron and the powdery, cocoa-like tannins. (92 pts.) - 2009 Bernard Levet Côte-Rôtie La Chavaroche / La Péroline - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Double-decanted a few hours before. Oh boy - this wine was in my sweet spot from the first sniff. Deep and savoury on the nose, which reminded me of ink and dark meat but was somehow also clean as a whistle. Sleek and well-balanced on the palate, with the flavour of black olive to season the dark fruit, and very long. With time in the glass the wine became seductive and truffley, and reminded me of a mature Pomerol. Delicious! (95 pts.)
- 2014 Bernard Levet Côte-Rôtie Les Journaries / Maestria - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Decanted around three hours. Savoury and somewhat lean, like you'd expect from a 2014, with a raw, slightly rustic herbaceous nose, in a Loire Cabernet Franc idiom that was more appealing than it sounds! Cool, earthy and refreshing on the palate with an attractive, mineral finish. Very drinkable and easy to enjoy (if you're a wine geek, anyway). (94 pts.) - 2016 Porseleinberg Swartland - South Africa, Coastal Region, Swartland
Decanted around three hours. This wine really has its own style, perhaps because it's 100% whole-bunch. Intense and sensual on the nose, with a dark, penetrating, grapey quality that almost seems artificial. Bright fruit on the palate, with complex undertones of liquorice, leather and violet; it somehow feels sleek and medium-bodied whilst also being very intensely flavoured. Pure and persistent, and charismatic too. (94 pts.) - 2020 Minimalist Wines Syrah Stars in the Dark - South Africa, Cape South Coast, Cape Agulhas
Decanted around three hours. Seemed a bit of a gamble given the wine's youth, but we all wanted to try this and it did deliver on the night. Pure, concentrated and young, like a Syrah coulis, with violets and cream on the nose, and the sense that one could almost smell the grape pips themselves (this wine is c. 80% whole-bunch and c. 10% carbonic maceration). Bright and intense on the palate, with a sweetish but sophisticated creaminess from the ripe grapes and oak ageing that gave the impression of a delicious blueberry milkshake. Glorious stuff, and will be interesting to see how it ages. Incidentally, this wine was the best match with our cheese plate. (93 pts.)
South Africa placed first and second in the group vote!
