July WIMPS: it's good to be back!

I'll post some more coherent thoughts later, but it was an absolutely superb WIMPS lunch today. I was fortunate to be on the table with a bunch of 1971 wines in honour of Chris's (or maybe Nayan's) 50th - what amazing condition the Tondonia, Barolo and PX were in!!

Great food, particularly loved the linguine with sardine broth, but also the scallop and, my god, that Porchetta!!

Great to meet a few new faces (and a few older ones) on Ponderosa.
 
Our table saw a range of vinous offerings from Champagne to Northern Spain to Southern & Northern Rhone to Tuscany and to Oz for Shiraz-a-thon and an Oz dessert wine from the list! Fun company and conversation to even include how to deal with a bite from a brown snake! Potentially some further thoughts on the wines to follow. Almost forgot to say - v nicely done by the team at La T. G
 
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That linguine / sardine dish was great, and brilliant with our 2005 Nicolas Joly Coulee de Serrant, both off piste and individual delights among a set of lovely dishes accompanied by some equally lovely wines

no duds on table adam, even the company was good ;)

more seriously, it was great to get together again and enjoy sharing top quality dishes and wine with everyone, even if we were mostly limited to our own tables.
the staff at LaT did a great job, it must have been tough to handle us all, and all the wines, while being out of practice, however it was great to see the restaurant pretty much full in a Wednesday lunchtime, those outside may not have had quite a good time with the rain today from what I saw !
 
Well if I look this good when I actually turn 50 I’ll be happy...

anyhow,

a great day out of the office. As is only right and proper, a stroll up chiswick high road resulted in an encounter with several other professional wimps who realise the benefit of a pre-prandial pint. Sean did his best to make sure we arrived smelling like a brewery but managed to save the majority of the beer in the glasses.

then I had to resist starting a conga outside as we all dutifully distanced on the way in.

Once inside it was just like actual ‘normal life’ (yes I realise that having these events as a regular thing in my life might not be normal for everyone but we all have our vices).

a table full of glasses, surrounded by people wearing assorted wallpaper patterns in the guise of shirts. Alistair’s Olympic wrestler was a highlight.
The food is covered by the photos above - as good as it looks.
the service was impeccable as always, lots of other people in the restaurant too so extra kudos to team trompette.

now the wines...

dom Perignon 98.

On the return I wanted to share a really good champagne. This was exactly that but as it was mine I’ll leave a note to whoever would care to write one.

domaine ganevat 2016.

100% Chardonnay from the Jura and a new producer to me. A great expression of the grape that was beautifully handled, I think even better with more age but it was superb with the scallop dish

ar.pe.pe valtellina 2011 magnum.
On paper tge best producer from this region and in person a deserved reputation. This was just so easy to drink. Fun wine - light on its feet without being watery, very clean and fresh red fruit but with enough of a spicy finish to carry it through. Again excellent with the sardine/bouillabaisse pasta dish

Tondonia blanco 1971

my other offering so again I won’t comment other than to say that I don’t think it was friends with the sardine dish - yes if simply grilled or bbq style but the food either side suited this better

chrysiea 2005

a Douro red that shows you why you don’t need to add brandy. Yes big and full fruited and a little new world in style but delicious. Rich and ripe fruit here, exuberant stuff which matched the pork dish way better than I thought it would

mascarello mon privato 2009

barolo shouldn’t look, smell or taste like this. Why? Because a bit like the portugese red I really don’t need yet another region to develop a habit for. Light in colour yet full of vigour it has a tannic structure at odds with what we all ‘know’ about barolo and hence is very drinkable already.

borgogno barolo 1971

for clarity, Nayan is a 71 vintage not me and he brought this monolithic beast with him which he’d been gifted. Alex and ian both noted the colour in the decanter. Lined up next to the others it was the darkest (here on the right

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the nose was a great mix of ‘slightly old wine’ and ‘tar and liquorice trying to escape’ but the palate was as fresh as you like. Proper old school barolo but seemingly supercharged. Lots of extraction here and I wonder if another bottle might not be a very different and far less enjoyable beast.

with dessert we had to fall back on reserves which involved a prum which I’m afraid I didn’t catch the vintage or vineyard of but which I enjoyed very much, if perhaps a touch swiftly.

then the finisher - Nayan’s 1971 px. Looks like engine oil, same viscosity. Smells a bit like it too but also has fig, raisin, clove, nuts, liquorice again. Tastes like all of the above with added molasses. I couldn’t drink a bottle!

huge thanks to team Trompette for such great service, the Don for his legendary organisation skills and my table mates for such erudite company and generous wine choices.

my apologies for an earlier than usual exit from the Italian job, but it turned out to be a good idea as Noah’s flood fell from the skies just as I got back and started leaking in through the kitchen extractor hood!
 
Over on Hoss we also had a cracking afternoon. I was a fan of all the courses, the beautifully textured venison ragout and its divinely rich reduction stole the show...

NV Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Cuis
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Lemon oil and something a little biscuity on the nose (maybe a water biscuit, a charming salinity too. Palate has great acidity and poise. Really like this. A great opener

2012 de Trafford Sijnn White
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Nose opens with some white flowers and a certain chalkiness, some butteriness and a little macadamia. Palate is broad and detailed with mouth puckering acidity. As it warms the 14.5% alcohol shows its head but never in an overpowering way.

2005 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante-Alouette
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Quince paste and wax on the nose, a banana fritter character too. Palate has a similar profile. With some time in the glass it appears to have become lighter in colour. Also some toffee notes emerge. A lovely pair that were enjoyable on their own but shone with the scallop dish

2012 Marijan Arman Vino Istarka Cuvee Superior
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An absolute belter here which went really well with the ragu. For me the nose alternates between a left bank claret and a Soula rouge. There's a meaty , minty character with what feels like Cab Franc graphite. With time some grated chocolate appears and a little leatheriness / funkiness that I love. The palate is fine grained and evolves over the afternoon as it breathes. After a couple of hours I can almost make out a gooseberry compote element to the more classic red fruited palate. Sadly a one off and unlikely to be available in the UK.

2006 Bodegas Pintia Toro Pintia
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Sadly flawed.

2007 Prats and Symington Douro Chryseia
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This is an intriguing wine, there is a quink ink and blueberry quality to the nose with some grated coconut. Tannins are softening but some resolution to come, overall the wine feels well made and went very well with the porchetta.

1999 Chateau Musar
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Despite having been open and decanted at 10:30, this needed time in the glass to reveal itself. Initially an element of VA with the red fruited nose, this fruit is sweet and there's also an allspice character. With some time in the glass a grapefruit segment / short rib ragu / Christmas spice melange develops.

2008 Ridge Monte Bello
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Yum. Starts very cool-fruited with a slice of fresh ginger. With time in the glass all sorts of other notes emerge, treacle tart, nata and a refreshing citrussy acidity. This will improve for some time to come but I really enjoy it now

NV Rosé de Saignée 1er Cru Extra Brut
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A generous addition from Ian to accompany our dessert. Once initial sniffs fill our nostrils with escaping CO2 a lovely quince jelly and wild strawberry character emerges. Also some freshly chopped celery batons, Lovely end to a great line of interesting and enjoyable wines

Thanks to Don for all the hard work and to team Trompette who did us proud.
 
Over on Hoss we also had a cracking afternoon. I was a fan of all the courses, the beautifully textured venison ragout and its divinely rich reduction stole the show...

NV Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Cuis
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Lemon oil and something a little biscuity on the nose (maybe a water biscuit, a charming salinity too. Palate has great acidity and poise. Really like this. A great opener

2012 de Trafford Sijnn White
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Nose opens with some white flowers and a certain chalkiness, some butteriness and a little macadamia. Palate is broad and detailed with mouth puckering acidity. As it warms the 14.5% alcohol shows its head but never in an overpowering way.

2005 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante-Alouette
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Quince paste and wax on the nose, a banana fritter character too. Palate has a similar profile. With some time in the glass it appears to have become lighter in colour. Also some toffee notes emerge. A lovely pair that were enjoyable on their own but shone with the scallop dish

2012 Marijan Arman Vino Istarka Cuvee Superior
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An absolute belter here which went really well with the ragu. For me the nose alternates between a left bank claret and a Soula rouge. There's a meaty , minty character with what feels like Cab Franc graphite. With time some grated chocolate appears and a little leatheriness / funkiness that I love. The palate is fine grained and evolves over the afternoon as it breathes. After a couple of hours I can almost make out a gooseberry compote element to the more classic red fruited palate. Sadly a one off and unlikely to be available in the UK.

2006 Bodegas Pintia Toro Pintia
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Sadly flawed.

2007 Prats and Symington Douro Chryseia
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This is an intriguing wine, there is a quink ink and blueberry quality to the nose with some grated coconut. Tannins are softening but some resolution to come, overall the wine feels well made and went very well with the porchetta.

1999 Chateau Musar
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Despite having been open and decanted at 10:30, this needed time in the glass to reveal itself. Initially an element of VA with the red fruited nose, this fruit is sweet and there's also an allspice character. With some time in the glass a grapefruit segment / short rib ragu / Christmas spice melange develops.

2008 Ridge Monte Bello
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Yum. Starts very cool-fruited with a slice of fresh ginger. With time in the glass all sorts of other notes emerge, treacle tart, nata and a refreshing citrussy acidity. This will improve for some time to come but I really enjoy it now

NV Rosé de Saignée 1er Cru Extra Brut
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A generous addition from Ian to accompany our dessert. Once initial sniffs fill our nostrils with escaping CO2 a lovely quince jelly and wild strawberry character emerges. Also some freshly chopped celery batons, Lovely end to a great line of interesting and enjoyable wines

Thanks to Don for all the hard work and to team Trompette who did us proud.
What splendidly precise and evocative descriptions, Neil.
 
These are my notes. I don't think there was any universal agreement across the table as to which wines were best as there were some clear stylistic / region preferences, except there seemed to be a consensus that the Champagne and the Rías Baixas were very decent. It was a really good opportunity for me to try aged Aussie Shiraz of decent pedigree the experience brought to life further by Mark and Geordie's insights, although unlikely that I will be making any special efforts to seek it out. The standout wine for me was the Champagne which was very much in the gastronomic style and would have been perfect en Magnum. Great to meet some new faces.

  • NV Huré Frères Champagne Mémoire Extra Brut - France, Champagne (7/28/2021)
    Very light slightly golden colour. Fresh biscuity nose. Brioche and dough on the palette intermingled with intense zesty acids providing citric flavours but without being fruity. Really invigorating and down right delicious. Finishes with tantalising lift and the imprint of flavours to be savoured. A lovely gastronomic Champagne. (94 pts.)
  • 2009 Pazo de Señoráns Albariño Rías Baixas Selección de Añada - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (7/28/2021)
    Light golden colour with a greeny hue. Nose shows lemon seaweed and brine. Very fresh on the palette with decent acidity holding it together very nicely, and some persistence on the finish. A lovely match for seafood. (91 pts.)
  • 2018 Julien Pilon Hermitage Prisme - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (7/28/2021)
    Light to mid golden colour with honey suckle and marzipan on the nose. Viscosity and some density on the palette, quite rich and full bodied but lacking in acidity (perhaps true to terroir?) and could do with a little mid-palette development. Not convinced this is a classic vintage to cellar, yet should be nice enough to drink over the next 5 years or so, preferably with food. (89 pts.)
  • 2016 Tardieu-Laurent Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Spéciale - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (7/28/2021)
    Mid to dark red in colour. Deep intoxicating red fruit and fresh undergrowth on the nose. Rounded, medium bodied with fine tannins. Perhaps a little plush on the palette, yet the oak seems in check rather than sticking out. Very delicious now whilst still on the fruit although in another 5 to 10 years it may have developed some tertiary complexity. Looking forward to finding out how this develops. 99% Grenache from 90 year old vines from sandy soils. 14.5% ABV. (92 pts.)
  • 2012 Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti) Maremma Toscana Saffredi - Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Maremma Toscana (7/28/2021)
    Mid to dark red in colour with no signs of bricking. Sour cherries on the nose with delicious fruit, lovely acidity and fine tannins on the palette with no overt oak. A well balanced wine that seemed to sit between youth and middle-age, and in my opinion would benefit from another 5 years+ of cellaring. (93 pts.)
  • 1998 Peter Lehmann Shiraz Stonewell - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley (7/28/2021)
    Nose showed tertiary evolution with some menthol and (later) leather. Dense, thick and slightly syrupy dark fruit (the Devil in Shiraz?) and some noticeable oak which all seemed to saturate and melt on the palette in quite a unique way. After 30 mins or so the nose went leathery and the wine seemed a little imprecise and more alcoholic (better when it is cellar cool to my palette). This will hold for another 10 years plus, however hard to predict if it will improve. 14.5% ABV. (91 pts.)
  • 1999 Seppelt Shiraz St Peters - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Great Western (7/28/2021)
    Blue fruit on the nose, seems very clean. Immediate impression is of a supremely balanced wine with length, fine tannins and no noticeable oak. Seems to dance gently on the palette with delicious blue fruit flavours. After 30 to 45 mins the wine seemed a little muted and had lost its initial flourish. Best enjoyed quite a bit under room temperature. (93 pts.)
  • 2010 Dalwhinnie Shiraz Moonambel Pyrenees - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Pyrenees (7/28/2021)
    Dark colour. Balsamic vinegar on the nose with prunes. Heavy thick and rich full bodied flavours on the palette with medicinal notes and earth - as if this was forged in a furnace! Lacks freshness and seems a bit overdone even if the ABV is just 13.5%. N.B. I do not think this was a faulty bottle as none of the 5 other experienced tasters thought so - merely not my cup of tea. (88 pts.)
  • 2007 De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Sémillon - Australia, New South Wales, Big Rivers, Riverina (7/28/2021)
    Essence of dried oranges and apricots on the nose. Lovely mouthfeel, relatively full bodied, some fresh acidity and continuing interplay between the essence of various dried fruits, well balanced and sufficient complexity to maintain interest. Very decent. (91 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
 
My thoughts on the food, and the Ponderosa wines...

The scallop was unashamedly cooked the old fashioned way: in a red hot pan with plenty of butter, not a sous vide in sight, and all the more delicious for it. Sweet and succulent, the sauce added a touch of richness without detracting from the natural sweetness of the scallop.
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My favourite dish was the beautifully light, fresh linguine with the sardine broth. All the flavours of classic southern French soupe de poisson. I could happily have eaten a whole main course just of this (I accidentally deleted my photo of this, so I've nicked George's from above)
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The Porchetta was visually the showstopper dish, and actually ate very well too - perfectly moist fillet in the centre, perfectly crisp and salty crackling around the outside. The little mushrooms added a touch of earthiness.
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Dessert was very well made and balanced - the cake and Chantilly cream were beautifully light and the syrup not too sweet. I'm not normally a fan of redbush tea, but it worked in this context.
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In terms of the wines, the DP 98 kicked things off spectacularly - rich, succulent and elegant. The best Champagne I've had in a long time. Loved the Ganevat which was piercing and intense and a brilliant match to the scallop. The next pair were chalk and cheese, in that the old Tondonia Blanco was a thought provoking wine to sniff and ponder, whereas the Ar.Pe.Pe. was one to just drink not think! Both Barolo were excellent, the Monprivato light, floral and elegant, the old Borgogno a mass of soy, liquorice and balsamic ( and where did that colour come from??!!) though surprisingly neither worked with the pork. The Chryseia was restrained and fresh and really came into it's own with the pork. The Prum Auslese was a good Prum but perhaps not sweet enough for dessert (I bet it would have worked well with the scallop actually), the old PX was thick enough to serve with a spoon.

Service.....well it's La T, so what do you think?? Warm & relaxed, yet attentive & efficient. It's what they do.

Thanks to my fellow Ponderosans for sharing their wines and great company.
 
Great notes from Neil H above, so nothing to add for the table I was on except to thank Don and La Trompette for doing what they do so well and so consistently. I wasn't a complete fan of the venison ragout, finding the sauce perhaps a little too much of a good thing, but the other three dishes were right up my street. If anything, the beautiful simplicity of the perfectly cooked scallop and its accoutrements were my favourite. I was lucky enough to be passed a small glass of the Tondonia Gran Reserva blanco 1971 - what a superb wine. Without doubt the oldest Tondonia blanco I've had the pleasure to drink and still with a bright, super-fresh colour but a texture that screamed serious bottle age. One of the wine world's great eccentrics. And here's a shot of the porchetta photobombing my portrait of the Don himself.


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Good to be back again. We were very lucky on our table to have 3 perfect wine/food matches - Scallop with Ganevat, Linguine with Ar Pe Pe, Porchetta with Chryseia. Not that the other wines weren't stunningly good, just those matches were greater than the sum of the parts. The Tondonia also worked exceptionally well with the Porchetta. Very very hard to pick a WOTD as they all had their strong points, so I won't.
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In these difficult times I must congratulate the La T team for an absolute splendid performance well done. Also to Don for all his hard work sorting out a tricky free for all mix.

Thanks to my fellow table mates on Hop Sing for their company and excellent wines. I won't comment on the wines as others will come along, except to say I was pleased with my contribution.
 
  • NV Huré Frères Champagne Mémoire Extra Brut - France, Champagne (7/28/2021)
  • Pale gold with a touch of copper. Light, complex aromatics in the light, nutty spectrum with hints of ginger and delicate spices. Obviously low dosage and not much autolytic character, thus dry and light to medium bodied. More complexity than mass here. In the modern idiom of plenty of reserve wine (in older barrel?), “terroir” focussed and food friendly. Not really my style, but well done (***) Drink now but no rush.
  • 2009 Pazo de Señoráns Albariño Rías Bail as Selección de Añada - Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas (7/28/2021)
  • Light colour, particularly for its age. Yellow stone fruits, peach stone and a hint of herb or grassiness. Reminds me of Rousanne. Palate reflects nose with lovely combination of richness and weightlessness. Beautifully integrated yet firm acidity. No more than medium bodied, yet feels somehow more substantial. Great and versatile seafood wine and feels indestructible. I suspect this may become more mineral and stony with further age. Top class. (*****) Drink now - 2030
  • 2018 Julien Pilon Hermitage Prisme - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (7/28/2021)
  • Slightly more aged and deeper colour than the Albariño. A little mute and muddled on the nose, Overripe apricot and honey, hint of tangerine. Medium to full-bodied, low acidity but not the gras of a top white Hermitage to counter. Good alcohol balance. Surprisingly developed and will probably begin to go down the oxidative route within two to three years. (**) Drink now - 2024
  • 2016 Tardieu-Laurent Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Spéciale - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (7/28/2021)
  • A little high quality oak apparent on the nose along with some fresh ripe red fruit (raspberry coulis?). Good ripe fruit attack, full-bodied mid palate, slightly spoiled by some slightly intrusive alcohol towards the back. With time a little baked fruit note appears which might be concerning. Should probably work out in the end if you leave it long enough. (***) Drink now or leave 10+ years
  • 2012 Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti) Maremma Toscana Saffredi - Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Maremma Toscana (7/28/2021)
  • Deep ruby pretty much to rim. Initially a hint of quality oak, but integrated with time. Developing bouquet of dark fruits, with a hint of liquorice and bay. Ripe fruit with a hint of sucrosity, medium to full-bodied but with nice balancing acidity that helps keeps it trim. Feels a little reined in at this point, but with air develops some nuance of earth and liquorice to balance the fruit. Nicely balanced with correct tannins. In between stools currently. (****) Hold another five years and then drink to 2035 maybe
  • 1998 Peter Lehmann Shiraz Stonewell - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley (7/28/2021)
  • Dark, dark ruby, hint of change on rim. Plenty of eucalyptus and oak on the nose here. Big and bold attack of plum, vanilla and mint chocolate, later a touch of saddle leather appears in the mix. Full-bodied and just about balanced until some slightly intrusive alcohol at the back end. Tannins are beautifully ripe and melt into the wine. This is the archetype of big, bold SA Shiraz. Hard to score for me but let’s say (***1/2 ,maybe **** for those that can deal with the style). Drink now - until say 2030
  • 1999 Seppelt Shiraz St Peters - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Great Western (7/28/2021)
  • Dark ruby with a hint of change on rim. Initially eucalyptus and chocolate, but with time in glass strong notes of savoury woodsmoke and earth appear. Mature berry and plum fruit on the attack, mid-weight and medium-bodied, lengthens beautifully and joined by a graphite note. Very long with an even, effortless balance down the palate. Fine integrated tannins. Mature, but I think there might be even more to come. (****1/2) Drink now to 2040
  • 2010 Dalwhinnie Shiraz Moonambel Pyrenees - Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Pyrenees (7/28/2021)
  • Dark ruby with hint of change on rim. Eucalyptus and chocolate again. Fruit a shade more blue than black, acidity more prominent, but nicely integrated. Similar to the St Peters but slightly bonier in feel with a touch more structure and slightly less obvious fruit in the mid palate. (****1/2). Drink now - 2040 if the fruit holds up
  • 2007 De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Sémillon - Australia, New South Wales, Big Rivers, Riverina (7/28/2021)
  • Old gold. Dried orange, sultana and spice on the developed bouquet. Big rich attack, held just just on the right side of cloying by the surprising citrusy acidity. Full bodied with tremendous viscosity. Not the most subtle wine in the world, but a great match for the dessert. (***) Drink now to 2025 say. From a 1/2.
My thoughts from yesterday. Thanks to Graeme for the template!

Fantastic to be back in the saddle with a new team. Good fun on our table with some entertaining and well travelled companions…

Very impressed by the quality of food served to us under obviously trying circumstances. The scallop was the highlight for me, both flavoursome and texturally perfect. The linguine with sardine broth could easily have been served sitting outside a smart restaurant overlooking the Calanques in the bright sunshine rather than in the company of the beating mid-July rain in London. Plenty enough said about the porchetta, but no mention of the coco beans? Perfect accompaniment! I am a fan of the dessert too, although it’s not normally my sort of thing. A great wine match proposed by The Don too.
 
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Interesting reading notes from other tables. Thanks very much for the notes. Some of the wines didn't travel well to Ponderosa. Was it that we were drinking them without the correct food and context, or was it some kind of "tablism" at work? I found the Istarka, Musar 1999 and the St Peters (that were generously sent over!) a bit disappointing compared to what I was expecting (hard to put a finger on it, but just wasn't feeling the love). Will open a Musar 99 this weekend - partly to see if I can re-enact it, and partly for the hell of it....
 
Really enjoyed yesterday. Food and wine were both excellent, but I think I enjoyed the company even more - such a treat to sit and chat about wine, travel, scuba diving, spiders and methods for surviving snakebite with people I had never met before. Highlights for me wine-wise were definitely the aged albariño (who even knew that was a thing?), which had a lovely nose that just leapt from the glass, Huré Frères Champagne, which had a wonderful complexity that I reckon came to the fore thanks to the almost non-existent bubbles, and the two Victorian Shirazes - Mark's Seppelt St Peters and my own Dalwhinnie - which both had plenty of fruit and lovely balance.
 
Roland told me he had a lovely time yesterday. Not bad for his first WIMPS. Graeme and Mark have already posted fantastic notes on the wines and so I will not add more. I agree the bubbly and the Albariño were the most appreciated wines of the table. The conversations were absolutely enlightening! The food and service at La T were great, despite the staffing issues all in the trade are experiencing. Thanks to Don, La T team and my fellow diners for a great afternoon.
 
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