Magnum Advantage?

In the comments in the thread about 1998 red Burgundies, Jeremy Caan refers to the "magnum advantage" as an explanation for the splendid showing of the 1998 NSG Clos des Forêts St-Georges from Domaine de l'Arlot.

We've all been taught that because the neck opening is the same for 375 ml, 750 ml, and 1.5 l bottles, the rate of aging is slower the larger the bottle gets (i.e., the larger the bottle, the same amount of air comes in through the cork for a larger volume). Beyond 1.5 l, I've always heard, corks are individually cut and neck openings may vary, so the rule doesn't necessarily hold.

I recall a commentary in La Revue du vin de France from the 1990s (I believe it was by Michel Bettane, but I can't be sure) that in fact, this maxim has never been proven by blind tasting. For older bottles, he said, the best wine was always saved for large formats, so side-by-side tastings, so older (then) results were not meaningful or relevant.

In the years since then, I've never come across a tasting to compare wines from bottle size.

My own feelings are generally agnostic because I haven't had sufficient experience comparing the same wine from different formats in a relatively short period of time. The one exception (and I admit, it might be confirmation bias) is Champagne, where I do firmly believe that magnum is better than 750 ml is better than 375ml.

Does anyone know of any tastings testing the hypothesis/accepted wisdom?

Views of others?
 
I've been to quite a few blind champagne magnum vs bottle dinners, including one that Jancis held quite some years ago. At each the magnums were consistently top voted overall. Certainly for me champagne is always best in magnum. However, the big caveat is that producers often treat magnums differently than bottles and we could not get wines with the same disgorgement date on them for these dinners as magnums were often left longer on the lees and also released later onto then market so quite difficult to make any concrete conclusions.

As for still wines I've never had a comparison dinner or tasting but have had lots of the same wine in bottle and magnum all from the same source bought at the same time. Certainly Bordeaux the wines take longer to age, retain freshness and generally seem more integrated than equivalent bottles. As for Burgundy I only have a handful of magnums so really no data to tell. Though the Arlot was certainly showing very well out of magnum. These are all reds though. I have little experience of whites.

It would be good to fun to have a dinner comparing like for like for still wines as the comparison seems much fairer than champagne.
 
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My assumption of magnum advantage is indeed based on the idea that the wine will be slower evolving (fresher) plus the consensus about Champagne.

I'd be delighted to be wrong about this as my cellar contains rather few magnums.
 
I think Decanter did a blind Bordeaux tasting with a mixture of formats, possibly led by the late, lovely man, Simon Staples.

I can't quite remember the exact details, it must have been c. 2006-10 I think but in this instance the magnum effect didn't show through and the results were quite varied if I recall.
 
About 15 years ago we had a dinner with friends ( 5 people all together ) where we tasted 1982 Chateau Pichon Lalande from half, bottle & magnum side by side. No decanting, all opened at the same time ( 30 minutes before drinking ), all nearly the same into neck fill and all bought eP from the same source. Surprisingly the full bottle was the most evolved, better to say perfectly at peak, while the half was approaching peak and the magnum a lot younger than the others. Interestingly the half had more sediment and the wine from magnum evolved quicker in the glass. The wine from the full bottle kept it's perfectly mature status while the magnum wine needed about 60 minutes reaching perfection and the wine from the half showed best after 20 minutes and started "going down" afterwards. All wines beautiful Pauillac and honouring their reputation and luckily no one corked.
What to make from it:
wines from magnum are best because it's more wine :) , maturity wise the difference lies in the handling ( time of opening and pouring ). And magna are clearly more impressive.

Cheers
Rainer
 
Claude,
Many years ago I was invited by Haskel Norman , who ran a superb branch of (I think) it was the International Wine and Food Society in the San Francisco area, to a Lafite 1959 dinner at a grand restaurant.
We had half bottles, bottles, mags and a jero. At the end, a vote for the best was taken. The clear winner was the mags.
 
Can't say much about still wine, but like Gareth I've been in some champagne events when there are magnum vs bottle (mostly NV champagne), and the magnums showed so much better (mostly not younger, but better) made me wonder if there are different wine putting into different format. Actually, I decided then that I would rather buy NV champagne magnum than bottles, as in so many comparison the bottles were to be frank awful but magnums lovely.

As for 37.5 vs 75cl, I had some experience of sauternes; 75cl much better.
 
Claude,
Many years ago I was invited by Haskel Norman , who ran a superb branch of (I think) it was the International Wine and Food Society in the San Francisco area, to a Lafite 1959 dinner at a grand restaurant.
We had half bottles, bottles, mags and a jero. At the end, a vote for the best was taken. The clear winner was the mags.
Were they served blind though, Howard?

Not that I would care at a multi format Lafite '59 dinner!
 
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