Meo Camuzet Clos de Vougeot 2001 By some distance the most complete and fabulously appealing Burgundy I've opened in a very long time. One of those wines which would act as an instant-addiction agent in the people who say they don't get Burgundy. Opened at 4pm on the basis that it would need some air to open-up, in fact it came out of the bottle like a steam-train from a tunnel with its whistle blowing, announcing its arrival with an instant hit of glorious perfume. I quickly stuffed the cork back in and hoped all would still be intact a few hours later. It was. Over dinner it was a wine of constant interest. In the conversation about it we kept shifting from zooming-in to the delicate details, fine textures and shifting complexity and then zooming-out to the overall impressions of sheer power and presence. Then zooming back in again as new details revealed themselves. It's a couple of years since I opened any 2001 Burgundy and I really hadn't expected this to be in such a perfect spot. It's poised between youth & age in a place where evolved savoury smells and flavours are well established and there's still the vigour of the youthful fruit. Why tragic? I feel rueful that this is vrai Burgundy, the real deal, but that the cost of entry is now so unreachable for most of us. Good producers in lesser villages may be making better wine than ever before but I'm utterly unconvinced that the end results will ever be in this class. It doesn't matter much for me, I've a cellar stocked 5-15 years ago, but buying/drinking good Burgundy over the next 20 years looks like an unachievable goal to those on modest incomes. Unless drinkers can try this stuff it's impossible to put everything else in context.