A dinner at Noize last night with a few forumites exploring some of the best that Meursault has to offer. I think all were last bottles from parcels purchased when prices were within reach and so unlikely to be repeated unfortunately. NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Initial (Disg. 2011) – This has previously struck me a as a fizz that would reward a bit of cellaring so was good to get to put that theory to the test with this 04,05,06 base Initial. Slightly more oxidative than I would have expected but still the vinously structured chardonnay core I remember with a bit of tertiary nuance and energetic mousse. Really rather good and the extra time in bottle has paid dividends though possibly not much more than this. **** 2008 Arnaud Ente Meursault – Very Ente on the nose which for me is always a wonderful balance of reduction and richness, beautiful energy on the palate, I like the oak which is very well handled and this will benefit from more time I think and I’d be happy to leave it as 4 out of 6 so far have been pristine. **** 2006 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Narvaux – The colour is a bit worrying being a few shades darker than the 08 and 96 alongside but it feels like a natural progression rather than premature. An enticing nose and rich apply palate would have resulted in a very good evenings drinking had it been opened on its own at home but in the company it is very much overshadowed. **1/2 1996 Coche-Dury Meursault – Wow how is this still so fresh, the nose could be a bit more giving, though it does open up over time, this however is all about the energy and lift on the palate. Deeply complex while being effortlessly balanced, so much going on you have to keep going back, starting to get now why people lament the loss of well aged white burgundy. ***** 2008 Arnau Ente Meursault La Seve du Clos – Again that signature Ente nose but this definitely draws you in a bit more and one can see why this parcel of old vines is treated as a separate cuvee, there is an added concentration over the straight village that makes this a big step up in quality. As it warms though it does possibly, if being uber critical, become a bit one dimensional and starts to feel a bit more ‘made’ next to the Coche but that is to take nothing away from this exceptional village Meursault. ***** 2007 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets – The nose again seems a little reticent next to the impressive richness of the Seve but the palate has that signature energy and midpalte lift that extends the wine in mouth, it never loses this as it warms unlike the Ente and is as enjoyable at the end of the dinner as when first poured. This is all about the balanced energetic structure that I find hard to express in words suffice to say it’s the benchmark against which all other white burg is compared for me. ****** 2000 Denis Mugneret Pere et Fils Echezeaux – Not the most attractive 2000 I’ve had but is a decent red and blue fruited distraction from the whites and flawed reds. The tannins are surprisingly firm for a 2000 which suggest that it may benefit from a bit more time in bottle, good to try a producer I had not come across before. *** 1969 Domaine Clair-Dau Chambertin-Clos de Beze – Totally oxidised, failed cork NR 1979 Jean-Claude Boisset Musigny – Touch of cork taint on the nose but the palate doesn’t seem as affected but not as it should be and not compared to previous bottles. NR 2005 Domaine Gourt de Mautens (Jerome Bressy) Rasteau – Served blind with cheese I thought mourvedre as it had a nice rustic grip and warm spiced palate but no its turbo charged Grenache, bit of a surprise for the palate after the graceful burgundies, impressive rather than pleasurable, one glass is probably enough.**1/2 2002 J.J Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein – Not had a proper Mosel Eiswein before and this doesn’t disappoint. The fruit concentration is bewildering and kaleidoscopic almost too much to take in and married with the piercing acidity we could have polished off a Magnum. ***** So Coche on this showing for me is still the benchmark, though there was some discussion over dinner that with the son taking over the style that marked out the 96 and 07 here may be changing and not for the better. Also on the flip side Ente has apparently been going from strength to strength with younger wines (from 2011) being steps ahead of the 08’s tasted here, if this is the case, not taken mine out of storage yet, then Ente may will be the new king of Meursault. It was a shame the older reds didn’t show well but that is the risk when picking up odd bottles at auction. Noize is an excellent venue for more relaxed informal dinners of this nature and the service from Mathieu is exemplary, think this will be my go to for wine dinners going forward. A privilege to try these wines and a dinner that will live long in the memory.