TN Midweek Drinking 10-13 March

Leon Marks

Leon Marks

Location
London
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  • 2008 Ridge Lytton Springs - USA, California, Sonoma County, Dry Creek Valley (10/03/2025)
    From half. Served with room service burger. Purple / garnet - no bricking at all. On the nose - a little earthy, perhaps some dark fruits under that, not sure I would call as a zin - there's a certain sweet-ish element that makes it clearly new world though. On the palate - there's great fruit and richness but it hangs on this lovely structure - tannins, acid and the nearly integrated oak. The finish - it decomposes into two notes, this meandering gentle decay of the fruit and the tannins, and this faint high note of a kind of almost sweet, almost vanilla thing. There's a kind of delicacy but also assuredness, like a slightly whimsical artist who has been taunted and bullied in life, but also knows how to hunt, kill and gut a deer and could quite happily live for 12 months in the woods. Not the grandest wine I've tasted, but the kind of wine that makes you think - wow, all I had to exchange for this was money.

    Edited to add - reading the notes below from the past couple of years - hard to believe this is the same wine, and doubly hard to believe this is from half. Storage issue perhaps? Special magic corks?
Posted from CellarTracker
 
1996 Turkey Flat Shiraz - From 1847 planted vines, the Turkey Flat Shiraz 1996 is a masterclass in Barossa old vine longevity. The colour remains a deep, brooding ruby, with a subtle fade to garnet at the rim. Aromatically, it still hums with primary dark fruits - plum/blackberry/curants joined by more savoury secondary notes of black pepper/earthy mulch/ leather. It’s surprisingly youthful on the palate, with a core of ripe dark fruits wrapped in velvety tannins that have mellowed but still offer grip. There’s a lingering note of spice/mocha on the finish, adding depth without overshadowing the fruit. This is a Shiraz that balances maturity and vitality with poise, still very much alive and kicking. Drink over the next 20 years! 15% 93 points

1996 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet/Shiraz - Often called ‘Baby Grange’ the 1996 Bin 389 is showing its pedigree with effortless grace. The colour is vibrant, a deep crimson with only a faint hint of age. The nose is layered - blackcurrant/dark plum/cedar/graphite/touch of ironstone giving a savoury edge. The palate is plush but structured, with the Cabernet’s firm tannins providing backbone while the Shiraz brings generosity and richness. Notes of earth/spice/aged leather weave through, though the fruit still shines brightly. The finish is long and composed, hinting at more years of life ahead. This is a wine that embraces its age but refuses to let go of its youthful swagger. Drink over the next 15 years. 14% 94 points

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On the train home after a FABULOUS tasting of Chateau Figeac with the OCAWS.

The chateau ‘sadly’ sent over the top wine instead of the Petit Figeac 2020 so we had a full flight of 2020, 2018, 2016, 2015, 2009.

I was surprised with how approachable the 2020 was at this stage, perhaps reflecting the chateau’s modifications to winemaking in response to warmer recent vintages. The 2016 was a standout for me - technically impressive with all of the trio in balance and with richness and length. My favourite however was the 2009 with the bottle development coming into play.

I went to an Angelus tasting recently where I roundly declared afterwards I would never buy a bottle and that their third wine was worse than an M&S St Emilion and frankly cynical. However this tasting has restored my faith and I thoroughly enjoyed it. Hope to try to visit at some point.
 
I was fortunate to be invited to join a wine group last year that not only put on some great tastings every month, but also involve a group of very knowledgeable wine enthusiasts that include wine makers, judges and those involved in the industry etc. The tastings have proven to be a great opportunity for me to learn more from such an experienced group and of course, to taste some fabulous wines that I would not normally have the opportunity to do so. Last night was no exception…

Brodie, who organizes the tastings, has a love of Chateau Magdelaine, a wine no doubt many on this board will know all about. I had never tried Magdelaine before (despite being a Bordeaux enthusiast) as it is well known that any Magdelaine that comes up for auction in NZ will promptly be snapped up by Brodie given his love of the wine! So, when Brodie very generously offered to put on a tasting from his own cellar, I was eager to attend. It was a truly wonderful tasting, with brief notes below:

Doquet Le Mesnil Grand Cru 2004:
Nutty, lemon sherbert and a hint of sultana. More balanced with food and became toastier. At the mature end of its evolution but a wonderful wine to start with. 92.

Ch Magdelaine 2011:
A very pretty, lighter styled wine. Perfumed, violets, vanilla with a long finish. Very elegant and a real treat from a lesser vintage. Almost Burgundian in style. 93.

Ch Magdelaine 2008:
Fuller bodied than the 11, tannic, earthy with much more potential and time on its side. 94.

Ch Magdelaine 2006:
Blackcurrants, chocolate very young and went well with the food – became more balanced. I seemed to enjoy this more than others. 94.

Ch Magdelaine 2004:
For me this was less complex than the 06, and whilst still very young, it was quite closed or reticent. Some others enjoyed this more than the 06. 92.

Ch Magdelaine 1998:
I was very much looking forward to trying the 98. Tragically, this was oxidized.

Ch Magdelaine 1990:
I’m yet to have a poor Bordeaux from 1990 (possibly my favourite vintage) and this was no exception. Tannic, leather (some thought a hint of brett), full bodied and in a great place. Wine number 2 for me. 96

Ch Magdelaine 1989:
Glass full of chocolate, more lush than those before it. Tad port like. 92

Ch Magdelaine 1982:
Wow! What a wine. Absolutely sublime, gorgeous. Supple, elegant, complex and complete. A wine to sip on and ponder. Didn’t want the glass to end. Glorious! 97

Ch Rieussec 1986:
Lovely wine to finish the night. Quite light-footed, marmalade. Beautiful and charming. 94

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BTG DINNER - Cafe Kull (11/03/2025)

  • NV Deutz Champagne Brut Classic - France, Champagne
    Yellow colour. Well balanced, not overly persistent. Leaves a little residual sweetness on the palate, perfectly decent opening salvo but falls between two stools a little for me - not interesting enough to be interesting, not well put together enough to pass the Roederer Collection test.
  • 2018 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Estate - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
    Served by the glass. Purple colour, but not very purple. Earthy nose hint of spice. On the palate - this is young but you can drink it. Good acid, lovely structure, there is a kind of blockiness in the middle that speaks to the kind of Cali Cab that Ian A likes, but it’s well balanced and in no way clumsy. Pleased to have a couple in the cellar and not rushing to open them.
  • 2012 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
    Served by the glass. Purple / garnet colour. Brambly earthy nose just a whiff of vanilla. Lovely concentrated palate some cherry sourness great structure great length. Interestingly I asked for a glass while half way through the ridge, and finished this first. I’ve kinda stopped buying Tondonia and wonder if this is a mistake.
Posted from CellarTracker
 
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  • 2013 Fontodi Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (11/03/2025)
    1/12 Deep cherry.quite a dense, dark red fruited nose with some sappy lift. Cherry and mulberry fruit, some grip, good acidity. Quite dark fruited, good energy. A little more heft than the Castello di Ama San Lorenzo alongside, and though it’s not obtrusive it may be the extra degree of alcohol. Holds well through the evening and shows consistently, perhaps softening and mellowing a little with air. Decent. *** (89 pts.)
  • 2013 Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Gran Selezione San Lorenzo - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (10/03/2025)
    2/12 Dense ruby, just a little lighter around the edges than the Fontodi. A little softer and richer on the nose with mulberry and plum and a little spice. Similar on the palate, still recognisably Italian but a little less grip and apparent acidity. A degree less alcohol though I didn’t actually notice/realise when drinking alongside each other. A shade above the Fontodi for me. ***1/2 (90 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker

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Les Vins de la Gabare Cabernet Franc ‘Les Amandiers’ 2023 - honest, typical Anjou rouge by the carafe, not too much more to say than that: all the high charm of this grape when made in this way in this corner of the hexagone, low intervention, light but not simple, plenty of ripe, bright, curranty fruit, the hoped for varietal pepper, modest tannin, refreshing tang, a bit of funk; dispatched with not too much thought and a lot of pleasure; synergistically (acid, umami, salt, smoke) paired up with a skate wing, charred wild leeks and punchy sauce, long on crumbled chorizo, styled ‘Biarritz’

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Ian Craig said:
I was fortunate to be invited to join a wine group last year that not only put on some great tastings every month, but also involve a group of very knowledgeable wine enthusiasts that include wine makers, judges and those involved in the industry etc. The tastings have proven to be a great opportunity for me to learn more from such an experienced group and of course, to taste some fabulous wines that I would not normally have the opportunity to do so. Last night was no exception…

Brodie, who organizes the tastings, has a love of Chateau Magdelaine, a wine no doubt many on this board will know all about. I had never tried Magdelaine before (despite being a Bordeaux enthusiast) as it is well known that any Magdelaine that comes up for auction in NZ will promptly be snapped up by Brodie given his love of the wine! So, when Brodie very generously offered to put on a tasting from his own cellar, I was eager to attend. It was a truly wonderful tasting, with brief notes below:

Doquet Le Mesnil Grand Cru 2004:
Nutty, lemon sherbert and a hint of sultana. More balanced with food and became toastier. At the mature end of its evolution but a wonderful wine to start with. 92.

Ch Magdelaine 2011:
A very pretty, lighter styled wine. Perfumed, violets, vanilla with a long finish. Very elegant and a real treat from a lesser vintage. Almost Burgundian in style. 93.

Ch Magdelaine 2008:
Fuller bodied than the 11, tannic, earthy with much more potential and time on its side. 94.

Ch Magdelaine 2006:
Blackcurrants, chocolate very young and went well with the food – became more balanced. I seemed to enjoy this more than others. 94.

Ch Magdelaine 2004:
For me this was less complex than the 06, and whilst still very young, it was quite closed or reticent. Some others enjoyed this more than the 06. 92.

Ch Magdelaine 1998:
I was very much looking forward to trying the 98. Tragically, this was oxidized.

Ch Magdelaine 1990:
I’m yet to have a poor Bordeaux from 1990 (possibly my favourite vintage) and this was no exception. Tannic, leather (some thought a hint of brett), full bodied and in a great place. Wine number 2 for me. 96

Ch Magdelaine 1989:
Glass full of chocolate, more lush than those before it. Tad port like. 92

Ch Magdelaine 1982:
Wow! What a wine. Absolutely sublime, gorgeous. Supple, elegant, complex and complete. A wine to sip on and ponder. Didn’t want the glass to end. Glorious! 97

Ch Rieussec 1986:
Lovely wine to finish the night. Quite light-footed, marmalade. Beautiful and charming. 94

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Bravo Ian - Ch Magdelaine has been a standard bearer for trad St Emilion, a Bordeaux commune that has been more afflicted by spoofulation than any other, and this is an estate which sadly was subsumed into Belair Monange in 2012, so the 2011, which is one of the best 11s on both banks, was the last vintage and is a collectors item. Magdelaine has a cult following among a few collectors on the east coast of the USA and among a few of us here in Blighty. The 1982 is the best example I have tried but the 1970 and 1985 run it close. Shame that the 1998 was oxidised. Magdelaine also tends to do very well in so called off vintages like 1993.
 
Yes, it was indeed a real treat, Ian! The 82 in particular was absolutely sublime and I now understand why the host (and others) hold this wine in such high regard.

Speaking of 'cult status' didn't one of the musicians from Iron Maiden buy up half the allocation of 1985 or something after becoming particularly enamored with it?
 
Ian Craig said:
Yes, it was indeed a real treat, Ian! The 82 in particular was absolutely sublime and I now understand why the host (and others) hold this wine in such high regard.

Speaking of 'cult status' didn't one of the musicians from Iron Maiden buy up half the allocation of 1985 or something after becoming particularly enamored with it?
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Yes the drummer from Iron Maiden apparently scooped up all the 85s he could find - and made it his house wine - which is - allegedly - why it is so difficult to source. I have a vertical from 1966 to 2011 which has some notable omissions including the 85 alas, but also the 82 - I drank my last one last year.
 
Hmmm, another Magdelaine fan here. My interest goes back a long way, but was really piqued after a Clive Coates vertical in Chiswick back in around 2001 or 2002. That included ‘59, 64, 70, 75, 82, 85, 90 and 98. The standout unsurprisingly was the ‘64 amongst the older wines and the ‘98 of the younger. As a result I bought a case of the ‘98 which I have been slowly working my way through. I’m a little surprised that your bottle was oxidised as all of mine have been too young! I’ve drunk five over the last ten years and I’m starting to think that it probably needs at least another five years (and possibly another ten based upon the rate of development) to become fully expressive.

I have a few bottles of different vintages squirrelled away, but certainly nothing like Ian’s stash, but do have a bottle of the ‘64 remaining. I bought two bottles a while back and did drink the first as a check. It was as brilliant as I’d hoped for and I’ve been holding the second for a suitable occasion.
 
Dan Vyvyan said:
Les Vins de la Gabare Cabernet Franc ‘Les Amandiers’ 2023 - honest, typical Anjou rouge by the carafe, not too much more to say than that: all the high charm of this grape when made in this way in this corner of the hexagone, low intervention, light but not simple, plenty of ripe, bright, curranty fruit, the hoped for varietal pepper, modest tannin, refreshing tang, a bit of funk; dispatched with not too much thought and a lot of pleasure; synergistically (acid, umami, salt, smoke) paired up with a skate wing, charred wild leeks and punchy sauce, long on crumbled chorizo, styled ‘Biarritz’

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Went to Camille for the first time on Saturday due to your review. Absolutely loved it. The pork chop served with a chervil sauce was the highlight for me.
 
Ian Hampsted said:
Yes the drummer from Iron Maiden apparently scooped up all the 85s he could find - and made it his house wine - which is - allegedly - why it is so difficult to source. I have a vertical from 1966 to 2011 which has some notable omissions including the 85 alas, but also the 82 - I drank my last one last year.
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I waited patiently for 3 years and managed to pick up 2 cases of ‘85 from FARR about 5-6 years ago, only consumed 2 bottles so far, very good wine, that guy got good taste.
 
A tasting last night of Sadie Family (Eben Sadie) wines with the Jeroboam Club in Bristol. 15 wines, 12 different labels. My favourite white was the Rotsbank Chenin 2022. By a distance the youngest wine in the tasting - but then the vineyard was only recently acquired and this is the first and so far only vintage to be produced. Lovely, subtle wine but with Burgundian depth. Still very young but the class is evident. I then went for the T'Voetpad 2015, a field blend of Semillon blanc and gris, Palomino, Chenin and Muscat - the latter was perhaps what gave it its super appealing juiciness and sweetness of fruit. A gorgeous, fresh, pure and complex nose. Full and round in the mouth but not at all overdone, showing good energy and persistence. The group had the Rotsbank as white WOTN, followed by Palladius 2009 and Mev Kirsten 2015. Some of the whites (but not those) had an oxidative component that I didn't find attractive.

Of the six reds, my favourite was the Columella 2014, a blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan and Cinsaut sourced from eight different vineyards across a variety of regions. I found this very vivid and immediate, with lovely purity of red and black fruits to which tar and liquorice notes added complexity. It seemed very 'present' in the mouth with decent energy and balance and still a dusting of tannin. I had this narrowly ahead of the 2015 of the same wine, which was in a very different idiom, reflecting the much warmer growing conditions. The fruit was certainly ripe, and nicely complemented by a streak of violets, but there was some raisiny notes that were out of place, and a bit of a sweaty character. It was much bigger in the mouth than the 14, with good energy and grip, but a decent finish, but it was a bit diffuse to me, lacking the precision of the 14. The group had these wines the other way around, with the 15 being the red WOTN, followed by the 14, then the Pofadder 2017 (100% Cinsault).

The highs here were very high, but there was quite a lot of variation across the range and I feel there are better options out there in many instances, especially once one factors in price (even at release - assuming one can get any - but especially in the secondary market).

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  • 2012 Hervé Murat Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Le Clos Duc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (13/03/2025)
    Half 2/12. Quite full with a thwack of vanilla initially. Mid to dark red fruit, surprisingly thick and almost a little gloopy before starting to relax and show some herbaceousness cut. I think it will get there, but it’s taking a bit of time to settle down. This one appears to be missing the Vosne-like appeal of the first half ten months ago. *** (88 pts.)
  • 2008 La Chablisienne Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (11/03/2025)
    Ooh yes, really proper. Salty, iodine nose. Energy, saline cut, throat-gripping, visceral, chewy minerality. All sea breeze and crashing waves. Textbook. Holds well for a couple of days. **** (93 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker

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Paul J a i n e s said:
That Chablis sounds glorious Simon.
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That was the 9th of the case — all very good to excellent over the past decade, bar one five years ago that was like battery acid. Fingers crossed for the remainder — I’ve had the odd advanced GC in 08 from Chablisienne, but on the whole they’ve been really reliable, or I’ve been really fortunate.
 
If 1839 Blandy’s Malvasia Faja dos Padres is the d’Yquem 1847 of Madeira, then the 1775 Malvasia Faja is the 1811 d’Yquem. Given blind (and in very generous pourings) at the end of a meal at Desarma (by a winemaker who turned up bearing gifts) I guessed by the creme brûlée note that it had to be an ancient Malvasia Candida, therefore almost certainly from the Faja dos Padres. What was surprising was how complete, sweet and vital it was with no apologies needed for age. I have been lucky to have tried the Blandy’s 1839 from four bottles, but had never had this wine before. One of the very greatest C18 Madeiras I have tried (the Avery’s Camara do Lobos 1789 being the other) with no allowance for age required. Wow!

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