TN Midweek drinking 3–7 November: What Are You Opening?

PhilWilkins

PhilWilkins

Location
UK
2012 Tyrrell’s Original Plantings SFOV (Short Flat Old Vines) Hunter Chardonnay (screw cap) - This seems to be an extremely rare Hunter Valley Chardonnay, sourced from a tiny block of old vines in the Short Flat vineyard planted in 1968. This fruit normally goes into Tyrrell’s Vat 47. Only 450 litres of this SFOV are made, barely 600 bottles in total. It’s a youthful pale yellow to the eye and shows complex mature/focused aromas of dried apricot/straw/lemon peel/subtle hazelnut with a light flinty note on the nose. The oak is fully integrated, just giving a balanced toasted character. The palate is textured & precise, with a fine thread of acidity carrying the old-vine fruit maintaining the right amount of freshness. There is very much a delicious savoury/earthy edge to this and it finishes clean and very long. This has clearly benefited from (13 years) bottle age, offering clarity and restraint rather than power. Stunning stuff-drink over the next 6 years. 12.5%vol 94 points.

Very little information exists about this wine, details of other vintages are scarce which underlines just how rarely the SFOV appears and how elusive it remains, even by Tyrrell’s standards.

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Some Burgundy drunk over past few days.
We opened the En Remilly to accompany turbot having been bowled over by Chatenière. Both contained heavy tartrate crystals & were under unnecessary (surely?) 30 Diam. Joseph Colin is my current favourite white Burgundy grower (ok, they produce a tiny amount of PN).
Chevrot continues to provide VFM. The Santenay is proper white Burgundy & a good match veal chops
Amongst others, Santenay '23 was a buy along with Sur Le Chêne '23, at the domaine this weekend. The latter is the best vintage to date, IMHO.

  • 2021 Domaine Chevrot Santenay Comme Dessus Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay (04/11/2025)
    pronounced sun flower yellow; ample bouquet, old school; buttery, some oak, quite rich though has decent cut reflecting the vintage; expansive finish. This is drinking well. (89 pts.)
  • 2020 Joseph Colin Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru (03/11/2025)
    Pale; reduction style front & centre, vivacious, smoky edge, lemon balm; sculpted, crisp acidity, chiselled; spicy broad finish. Very long. Drink now & next few years. (92 pts.)
  • 2019 Domaine Chevrot Maranges Sur Le Chêne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Maranges (02/11/2025)
    Pale, with a ruby core; ever changing bouquet, gaminess shifts into cerise then plum; plump, velvety palate, enough acidity to give some lift, some primary fruits & then spice; some heft to finish. Will age further, if required. (89 pts.)
  • 2020 Joseph Colin Saint-Aubin 1er Cru La Chatenière Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru (01/11/2025)
    Remains pale; tremendous focus, subtle citrus underscore, stones & more stones; intense energy, steely yet in background fleshy; immaculate. Now & next few years. (94 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
 
Testament Wines The Dalmatian Dog Babić 2022 - Croatia, PDO North Dalmatia; 100% Babić; 13,5% abv; c.18€; organic
I don't normally buy wines with cute animal labels (except bugs, can't resist a cute bug on the label). This has a doggo on the label and a long back label text about how the Dalmatian is the only dog that smiles and it's all cute and I like cute doggos but I can't stand cute doggo marketing on wines. But a person at our monopoly whose tastes I trust told me this is really good. And then Konstantin Baum on YouTube went and also liked this. So fine. I'll try a wine with a cute doggo on the label. And I'm glad I got over my hatred for such labels. Babić seems like an interesting grape based on this wine: dark fruit aromas, but also sour cherry, there's a really yummy sharpness on the nose. High acidity, pretty decent tannins, really bright fruit. It's Nebbiolo-ish without having any of the stereotypical Nebbiolo flavours. Really refreshing, savoury, acidic finish. Seriously fun wine. Think Nebbiolo but just a notch friendlier and less austere and with different aromas. Buy again? Absolutely. It's the only Babić available here and if this is typical of the grape, it's a wonderful grape for an acid-head like me. Anyone know the Babić? How are they usually?
 
  • 2008 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (04/11/2025)
    Oh my, oh my, oh my. This is extraordinary. There’s such life and freshness on the nose. The initial soft red berry fruits soon add darker aspects, and quickly we’re into menthol, balsam and tar. There’s a bit of rose water over the top and generally, just a sense of continually developing complexity. The palate is quite a shock as even at 17 years it presents with remarkably youthful and vivid intensity, recalling red and black berry coulis and compote layered over fresh fruit. The acidity adds cut and brings out the juicy fruit while the tannins are pretty resolved though offer a gentle sandpapering of the tongue. Superb.

    Though drinking absolutely beautifully, with no rough edges, this is at the same time almost painfully youthful. Quite the paradox. Many many years left in the tank, you can be certain.
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Ken Oliver said:
  • 2008 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (04/11/2025)
    Oh my, oh my, oh my. This is extraordinary. There’s such life and freshness on the nose. The initial soft red berry fruits soon add darker aspects, and quickly we’re into menthol, balsam and tar. There’s a bit of rose water over the top and generally, just a sense of continually developing complexity. The palate is quite a shock as even at 17 years it presents with remarkably youthful and vivid intensity, recalling red and black berry coulis and compote layered over fresh fruit. The acidity adds cut and brings out the juicy fruit while the tannins are pretty resolved though offer a gentle sandpapering of the tongue. Superb.

    Though drinking absolutely beautifully, with no rough edges, this is at the same time almost painfully youthful. Quite the paradox. Many many years left in the tank, you can be certain.
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Daniel Bayfield said:
Thrilled to read that. I bought a 6 pack for £288IB and have been too worried it would disappoint to broach them.
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Wow, that’s an incredible price Daniel. I presume it was on release? (About the same as I paid in 2012 in Alba.)

I had been a bit worried too as there has been quite a lot of chat on Vinous about oxidation in Bartolos of this era, though not specifically 08 iirc. I think you can relax :cool:
 
Ken Oliver said:
Wow, that’s an incredible price Daniel. I presume it was on release? (About the same as I paid in 2012 in Alba.)

I had been a bit worried too as there has been quite a lot of chat on Vinous about oxidation in Bartolos of this era, though not specifically 08 iirc. I think you can relax :cool:
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Yes, on release. I started buying Bartolo Mascarello having enjoyed the 2005 at a BBR tutored tasting with David Berry Green. I bought the 2005 immediately after the tasting - not en primeur but for the same sort of money - and then got most vintages en primeur until it became massively sought after and my spend with BBR was not enough to keep my allocation. It's a wine I don't want to sell (and prices have dropped anyway) but I am also fearful of drinking for the reason you gave. I should probably think about making inroads into my 06s and 08s soon.
 
2018 Santa Cruz De Artazu Garnacha Blanco
On the nose it’s expressive, citrus and mineral
In the mouth it’s fresh, mineral with a touch of spice. Two issues for me. The after taste has something I can’t put my finger on but I’m not sure I enjoy. Also the acidity is a bit too much for me.
Second day everything was better but even though this was a wine I wanted to like I’m not sure I would buy again. I’ve not tried too many Garnacha Blanco’s so I’ll cast my net wider.
 
DHONDT TASTING AT PARK90 - (3/11/2025)

Great tasting of Adrien Dhondt’s wines, personally find that they have improved leaps and bounds in recent years. Adrien mentioned that both the negoce and domaine wines receive the same winemaking treatment to express their individual terroirs, and so it proved as the Nogers from Cuis and Bateau from Cramant were richer and more oxidative compared to the Le Mesnil-sur-Oger wines. Overall thought the wines were finely poised with delicate balance, like champagnes with richness without sacrificing freshness.



OPEN THEME AT ASTORIA - (3/11/2025)

Casual dinner at Astoria after the Dhondt tasting at Park90.
  • 2022 Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roche aux Moines - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières Roche aux Moines
    Rich and tropical, thought warm vintage Chardonnay but when revealed to be Loire I guessed Joly due to the heavier, high alcohol, and honeyed style. A little advanced for its age in my view and would have preferred more acidity, but others liked this more. (90 pts.)
  • 2022 Comando G Navatalgordo - Spain, Castilla y León, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León
    My extra. Popped to slow-ox at lunchtime as I find these wines need time, glad that it opened up to show well at dinner. Wild strawberries on the nose with dark cherries on the palate, interestingly a friend guessed this correctly to be a high-elevation Grenache because of some greenness and the tannin structure. Very restrained without any overt candied notes, one of the better Comando Gs that I've had (seems like that there is bottle variation as usual based on previous notes, so caveat emptor) . (92 pts.)
  • 2010 Château Bel Air-Marquis d'Aligre - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
    My contribution. Opened at lunchtime as this was another producer that needed a lot of air. Some pyrazines and probably Loire CF was the best guess as '10 Bordeaux would have much more protruding oak at this age like what a friend mentioned. Expressive with silky tannins, loved the restraint on this. Finally understood the fuss about this producer but again based on previous notes and consistent with my experience there is a lot of bottle variation. (93 pts.)
  • 2014 Luigi Oddero Barolo Vigna Rionda - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Knew the identity of this wine so didn't guess, but could understand why others went for Bordeaux. Very unfriendly now with obtrusive oak use and tannins, the '11 I had previously was more open. Good underlying material though. (91 pts.)
  • 2016 Ramey Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Another wine that was way too young with obtrusive oak use. Had a coconut note and sweet fruit that made me think young Ridge Zin. Needs many more years to integrate but not a fan of Syrah with new oak and black fruit. My first Ramey red and was a little disappointed as I am a big fan of his whites. (88 pts.)
  • 2021 Wagner-Stempel Siefersheimer Heerkretz Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheinhessen
    Thought this was an Austrian Riesling because of its off-dry and heavier nature, but interestingly someone said that a little spritz was a tell-tale sign for Germany. Citrus fruit opened up to show a nice minerality. Fresher with more air, not a crime to drink it now. (91 pts.)
  • 2022 Julian Haart Riesling Kabinett Old Vines - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    My leftovers from Saturday dinner. Light and refreshing citrus fruit, the right balance between sweetness and zinginess. An absolute bargain for S$45. (93 pts.)
 
Drunk over the last week or so.
Lidl fizz I'd kept for 3 years and it had developed nicely whilst not being the most complex.
Castelli was from a mixed L&W case, I wouldn't seek it out again, but it was very nice with a beef short rib stew, with lots of dark fruit and herbs.
Graft courtesy of @Julian Seers-Martin was still young, but great with lots of intense fruit, I'll leave the other for a few years I hope.
Valsardo had lots of fine sediment and improved over the evening, so I probably should have decanted it earlier. Maybe not quite as good as the 2001 L&W were selling at just over £10 a bottle, but lots of lovely musty red fruit and leather.
Chenin was lovely, again from L&W who said drink up by 2019, but based on this bottle although it clearly won't improve, it will be fine for a while.
Chianti was recommended here I think a recent Waitrose reduction. Good value.

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Mark Palmer said:
One of the discussions around the table at Camille on Tuesday revolved around the question as to whether anyone had ever had an unoxidised Beaucastel Blanc of any sort.

The answer was in the negative.
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Had one in July so nicely aged nd completely clean... and am hoping the other 2 bottles will be just as good

A 2011 Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc tonight - medium gold in the glass. Almost fully mature now this 2011 Beaucastel Blanc needs a bit of air to get it going, but once it does, it really opens up. The nose is full of ripe pear/baked apple/quince with complex touches of chamomile/almond/beeswax/lanolin and a kind of warm stone-like note. The warm vintage Roussanne makes itself known straight away. On the palate it’s broad and textured. There’s good weight but it stays lively thanks to just enough acidity. Layers of stone fruit/citrus oil/marzipan come through with a savoury edge something like smoked almond or dried hay. No sign of oxidation here, just the kind of gentle development you hope for in a wine like this. The finish is long and detailed. I don’t often open many mature white wines (I don't own many) usually sticking with older Southern Rhone reds but this beauty really pulled me in. Best enjoyed over the next 3 years while it’s still holding strong. What an utter unexpected treat, especially midweek - I wasn’t expecting this to be a good as it was. Serve cool, 10°C, never cold. 14%vol 94pts

Roussanne 80%, Grenache blanc 15%, Picardan/Clairette/Bourboulenc 5%


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A wine loving friend was visiting so an excuse to open something rather special (for a Tuesday anyway).

The friend brought the white. Just entering its drinking window. A lively citric fruit driven wine. I loved the way the citric flavours just danced across the tongue. In a couple of years this will be great, I suspect.

The Cornas was bought by me EP from TWS as my eldest daughter's birth year. We had 4 in the first 10-15 years and all were great. The fifth I sold for more than twice what I paid for the whole case of six and this was the last bottle. The cork came out rather easily, I thought, and I decanted due to the huge amount of sediment. Light colour showed plenty of age. Little in the way of nose and palate with perhaps some dark plum jam on the finish. Probably just a poor bottle. Not obviously flawed but I suspect prematurely aged. I looked again at the cork and it just disintegrated in my hands as I rubbed it gently-the culprit?

Served the Burgundy blind to see what my friend made of it. Eventually he guessed pinot from NZ. Fabulous nose of red fruits and the palate exploded with crunchy red fruit and cherry flavours. Perhaps the extra ripeness of '18 led him to think NZ. A fabulous wine drinking beautifully at the moment. I find it difficult to know at what age to open bottles of Burgundy but I think I got this one spot on for my palate anyway although there is no rush to drink it up. This wine, somewhat surprisingly, threw down a significant sediment too.
 
  • NV Domaine Jamet Côtes du Rhône L9 et 10 - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (06/11/2025)
    According to JLL, the brothers felt that “2009 too generous, 2010 too backward”, so they decided to mix 2009 and 2010 Cotes du Rhône, only 2500 bottles were made, lucky for me to find one in auction.
    ABV 13%. Opened at 5:30pm at home and served at dinner venue at 7:30pm. The nose was enticing and expressive from get-go at home, bouquet and palate were like Burgundy while the aftertaste had a little hints of herbal and savory notes pointing toward Northern Rhône. Refined tannins and smooth on the palate, not much hard edges. Excellent density and length for a Cotes du Rhône, pretty much in Cote Rotie territory. Such a good idea to mix two vintages of contrasting characteristics together, it’s a case of 1+1 greater than 2. I bet this is drinking a lot better than ‘09 or ‘10 Côtes du Rhône. Rate 4/5 by JLL, great showing for a Côtes du Rhône. (93 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker

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Chiu Lin said:
  • NV Domaine Jamet Côtes du Rhône L9 et 10 - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (06/11/2025)
    According to JLL, the brothers felt that “2009 too generous, 2010 too backward”, so they decided to mix 2009 and 2010 Cotes du Rhône, only 2500 bottles were made, lucky for me to find one in auction.
    ABV 13%. Opened at 5:30pm at home and served at dinner venue at 7:30pm. The nose was enticing and expressive from get-go at home, bouquet and palate were like Burgundy while the aftertaste had a little hints of herbal and savory notes pointing toward Northern Rhône. Refined tannins and smooth on the palate, not much hard edges. Excellent density and length for a Cotes du Rhône, pretty much in Cote Rotie territory. Such a good idea to mix two vintages of contrasting characteristics together, it’s a case of 1+1 greater than 2. I bet this is drinking a lot better than ‘09 or ‘10 Côtes du Rhône. Rate 4/5 by JLL, great showing for a Côtes du Rhône. (93 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker

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Ha. I’ve drunk both 09 and 10 CDR. I’ve probably still got a bottle of each left. Didn’t even know this Cuvée existed!

That would be a fun tasting!

You could also legitimately take a magnum to a “vintage pairs” tasting…
 
Lavandaia, Madre 2020

Picked this up at the cellar door in the summer after a lovely walk to the (Dello Scompiglio) estate for lunch from Lucca alongside the aqueduct and up through the woods. A blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino - quite rustic and earthy as this is very much a low-intervention vineyard. Chat GPT was insistent that we switch from chianti glasses to Burg bowls and also decant - ‘‘twas a good shout as it softened it up the wine noticeably.

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