TN Midweekers for the Chelsea Flower Show (20-23 May)

A good Monday with ribeye and triple-cooked beef-dripping chips…

  • 2017 M. G. Heucq Champagne "Les Goisses" Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut - France, Champagne (20/05/2024)
    Palest straw. Nicely chalky nose, hinting at a minerality that on the palate is nicely balanced with a hint of crème pat richness just starting to develop. Smooth and approachable, albeit with time in hand. Attractive. Good aperitif but would work well with lighter food. **** (91 pts.)


  • 2001 Château Léoville Poyferré - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (20/05/2024)
    Gosh, this has (perhaps unsurprisingly) moved on from a sighter bottle opened in 2012. Now nicely mature but vital, mid red fruited against a backdrop of cedar and sandlewood. Classic St Julian. Silky and suave. Lacking the depth of a great vintage, but plenty of typicity and complexity, red-fruited with sufficient energy to carry through to the finish. Lovely wine. Thank you Alan Bennett / VinXchange (2005) **** (92 pts.)
  • 2001 De Toren Fusion V - South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch (20/05/2024)
    A little deeper than the LP alongside. Nose not dissimilar, just a little richer with a slight sense of Madeira cake versus the LP’s more classic St Julian aromas. All too easy to mistake this as St Emillion, and despite the 14.5% abv, not necessarily a modern one. Impeccable balance. Very smooth. A stylistic preference between this and the LP — I prefer the style of the latter, but the former is the better wine. **** (93 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
 
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PRYMUS
PUGLIA IGT ROSSO 2021 14%
Perrini Natural Farm
Vino Biologico
A midweek stonker. A real thoroughbred. Grapes unspecified,but ancient. Very pure, with that Apulian soft fruit. What makes this wine special is the spice on the nose, which is cinnamon. To taste, the dry spice carries through and seems to make the fruit more intense. Its components are so in harmony. Got real pleasure from this one.
 
SOME INTERESTING, OUT OF COMFORT ZONE WINES - (21/5/2024)

  • 2019 Guiborat Fils Pinot Meunier Prohibition Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
    Started off rich but racy, became more oxidative with air. Love this producer’s tension but agree that it may be more suited to Chardonnays. (91 pts.)
  • NV Jean-François Ganevat Crémant du Jura "La Combe" Rotalier Oh! - France, Jura, Crémant du Jura
    So lean with almost no body at all; one-dimensional acidity. (86 pts.)
  • 2020 Amaury Beaufort Champagne Les Jardinots - France, Champagne
    Had a distracting salted popcorn / cheetos, didn’t guess this as a champagne because of the exotic red fruit and complete lack of tension. Usually a fan of this producer but this was too natural and out there for me (88 pts.)
  • 2015 Rudi Pichler Riesling Smaragd Terrassen - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    My extra, most guessed German Riesling. Off-dry with high acidity as usual but the warmer vintage did give a riper, more tropical profile to the fruit. Not too fat which is why I prefer Rudi to F.X in general. (92 pts.)
  • 2020 Andreas Tscheppe Sauvignon Blanc Grüne Libelle - Austria, Styria, Südsteiermark
    Guessed Jura Chard but on reveal this made sense. Perfectly ripe fruit while having a superb intensity and acidity. A high-strung sort of wine that I love - I don’t drink this producer enough. (94 pts.)
  • 2019 Ewald Tscheppe (Weingut Werlitsch) Freude - Austria, Styria, Südsteiermark
    My contribution. Looked and drank like passion fruit juice. Serious tannins on the wine that needed food. Think the Ex Vero III remains my favourite in the line-up. (89 pts.)
  • NV Zorjan Muskat Ottonel Dolium - Slovenia, Podravje, Štajerska
    Very pretty, lifted nose; gentle, tea-like tannins on the palate. Not the biggest fan of oranges but thought this had superb restraint. (93 pts.)
  • 2019 Frédéric Cossard Volnay 1er Cru Les Roncerets - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
    Possibly the first Cossard that I liked. Dark red fruit as usual for 2019 but at least it didn’t taste or look like a Syrah. Nice acidic spine and structure, unfortunately became more natty and jammy with air. (91 pts.)
  • 2020 Arnaud Lopez Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Pinot Noar - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
    Reflected the vintage with dense, dark fruit. Savoury, muscular wine but I preferred the prettier Cossard alongside, though this showed good purity. (90 pts.)
  • 2018 Pierre Girardin Meursault Eclat de Calcaire - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
    As usual ripe fruit, serious intensity and a general dose of oak, but this was a little stern and not as expressive as the other experiences that I’ve had with his wines. (90 pts.)
  • 2020 Philippe Bornard & Albert Ponnelle Chardonnay Arbois Pupillin Les Viandris - France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
    Agree with the previous note that this showed like a natural Chablis. Ripe citrus fruit with high acidity, some hint of sweetness. Suffered from being the last wine of the night so my memory was a little hazy, but clean for a Bornard. (90 pts.)

 
Some good things last night.

The Paul Gosset champagne, bought in France, was a new one for me and a really appealingly elegant style. Good rich dry extract and fruit, charmingly toasty style. It’s 50% 2020 and the rest from a solera from 2004 to 2009.

Drouhin Puligny Garenne 2014 was delicious fully mature white Burg. Rich Brazil nut style, buttery like Meursault. No oxidation, but clearly some way down the maturity path and probably at a peak. Yum, but drink up.

B. Burgaud’s Cote Rotie from 1999 is another fully mature bottle - all tertiary smells and flavours now - BBQ meat, ferrous, very smoky, It put me more in mind of the feral savagery of old style Cornas than of Cote Rotie, but that’s not a bad thing.

Finally the Campbells Bin 28 Rutherglen Muscat 1998, a Waitrose recent purchase, is absolutely insane! I quite like a drop of Rutherglen Muscat from time to time but I’ve never had one so dark and concentrated and sweet. It’s almost black in colour and looks like a particularly thick PX. The sweetness is off-the-scale, tooth-janglingly intense, like puréed raisins with a pile of added sugar. Not really enjoyable, TBH, and too much for the chocolate dessert it was served with! Fun though.
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Finally the Campbells Bin 28 Rutherglen Muscat 1998, a Waitrose recent purchase, is absolutely insane! I quite like a drop of Rutherglen Muscat from time to time but I’ve never had one so dark and concentrated and sweet. It’s almost black in colour and looks like a particularly thick PX. The sweetness is off-the-scale, tooth-janglingly intense, like puréed raisins with a pile of added sugar. Not really enjoyable, TBH, and too much for the chocolate dessert it was served with! Fun though.
Sounds rather misleadingly named!
 
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  • 2013 Brick House Pinot Noir Les Dijonnais Ribbon Ridge - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge (22/05/2024)
    Vibrant full ruby. Red fruited nose, strawberry with hints of raspberry and with air a talcy, rose petal fragrance. Very attractive and floaty. Silky, putting on a little weight in the glass and showing more sweetly red-fruited without losing it's elegance and line. This is really very attractive. **** (92 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
 
Some 2009 clarets.

- Branaire-Ducru. Mid dark colour showing some advancing on the rim. Not giving anything away on the nose, indeed took some persuasion to yield much smell at all. Core of quite attractive fruit, but a bit pinched, overtaken by earthiness and drying tannins. Acidity also a bit gawky for me. Not bad, but disappointing in this company. #8 on the night.

- Rauzan-Segla. The anniversary cartoon label made me smile. Attractive youthful ruby. Tops for smell, just gorgeous and lifted. “Sexy”. The first of what was to prove to be a sequence of bombs of bright, succulent, mouth-filling red-black fruit, some cocoa, glycerol, satisfying acidity and ripe tannins, medium density, so pleasing to drink now but promising plenty of interesting upside. This one had a little extra wild note of beef roasting juices which propelled it up the rankings for me. Only the thinnest fag paper behind Palmer tasted a couple of months ago. #2

- Haut Batailley. A shade more advanced in colour. Pretty classical Pauillac nose. Bullace with some pencil shavings, leather and incipient tobacco. Slightly firmer tannins than most. My neighbour and I seemed to find this a lot more harmonious and satisfying than others at the table who were more severe. #5

- Grand-Puy-Lacoste. Dark ruby. Ditto on the nose. To taste, the most backward of all the wines this evening, masses of fruit and lurking structure here, but still very new car, glossy. Hard work. Leave. #6

- Calon Ségur. Mid ruby. Very definitely now right in the 2009 zone to smell and taste, big, rich but not dense, harmonious, totally impeccable fruit, minty, floral, a little allspice, great length. Singing. #1

- Leoville-Poyferré. Dark ruby. Still very young/primary but not as backwards as the GPL. Extremely attractive but I didn’t quite find all the abundant grace notes of the RS or the CS at this stage. Clear upside. #4

- Gazin. In considerably denser and more traditionally powerful terrain here. Beautiful rich colour. Burly plum, chocolate, coriander spice. Curry leaf? Decent acidity. Easy to admire, tougher to like. Has all the gloss or trappings, remains a 14.5% merlot. #7

- Smith Haut Lafitte. Strong finish to the evening, mid ruby, more of the same sumptuous sweet fruit and acidity, really pleasurable to drink now. Marked up for a certain attractive smoky character to the fruit, down for a trace of blocky ink. #3
 
Some 2009 clarets.

- Branaire-Ducru. Mid dark colour showing some advancing on the rim. Not giving anything away on the nose, indeed took some persuasion to yield much smell at all. Core of quite attractive fruit, but a bit pinched, overtaken by earthiness and drying tannins. Acidity also a bit gawky for me. Not bad, but disappointing in this company. #8 on the night.

- Rauzan-Segla. The anniversary cartoon label made me smile. Attractive youthful ruby. Tops for smell, just gorgeous and lifted. “Sexy”. The first of what was to prove to be a sequence of bombs of bright, succulent, mouth-filling red-black fruit, some cocoa, glycerol, satisfying acidity and ripe tannins, medium density, so pleasing to drink now but promising plenty of interesting upside. This one had a little extra wild note of beef roasting juices which propelled it up the rankings for me. Only the thinnest fag paper behind Palmer tasted a couple of months ago. #2

- Haut Batailley. A shade more advanced in colour. Pretty classical Pauillac nose. Bullace with some pencil shavings, leather and incipient tobacco. Slightly firmer tannins than most. My neighbour and I seemed to find this a lot more harmonious and satisfying than others at the table who were more severe. #5

- Grand-Puy-Lacoste. Dark ruby. Ditto on the nose. To taste, the most backward of all the wines this evening, masses of fruit and lurking structure here, but still very new car, glossy. Hard work. Leave. #6

- Calon Ségur. Mid ruby. Very definitely now right in the 2009 zone to smell and taste, big, rich but not dense, harmonious, totally impeccable fruit, minty, floral, a little allspice, great length. Singing. #1

- Leoville-Poyferré. Dark ruby. Still very young/primary but not as backwards as the GPL. Extremely attractive but I didn’t quite find all the abundant grace notes of the RS or the CS at this stage. Clear upside. #4

- Gazin. In considerably denser and more traditionally powerful terrain here. Beautiful rich colour. Burly plum, chocolate, coriander spice. Curry leaf? Decent acidity. Easy to admire, tougher to like. Has all the gloss or trappings, remains a 14.5% merlot. #7

- Smith Haut Lafitte. Strong finish to the evening, mid ruby, more of the same sumptuous sweet fruit and acidity, really pleasurable to drink now. Marked up for a certain attractive smoky character to the fruit, down for a trace of blocky ink. #3
Excellent work Dan! Thanks for the notes.
 
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SERIOUS ROSÉ - Crouch End Cellars (22/05/2024)

A few of us got together to open some bottles of rosé at Crouch End Cellars yesterday - quite a successful tasting with some really good wines.

Provence
  • 2021 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé - France, Provence, Bandol
    Really impressive depth and concentration, rounded and spicy on the nose with ripe peach, raspberry and yellow plum. Developing a smoky maturity. White peach, strawberry and raspberry palate - delicious and fruity, possibly a little rough on the finish. Quality, versatile stuff. (91 pts.)
  • 2021 Triennes Rosé - France, Provence, Mediterranée
    A tasty quaffer, probably a step up from your standard Provencal rosé and true to its style. Yellow peach, strawberry, some white pepper and vanilla. There's a touch of bitterness on the finish which I found brought a sense of welcome seriousness but really it's a drinker not a thinker. (87 pts.)
Pinot Noir
  • 2019 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Rosé Fleur de Pinot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay Rosé
    Cloudy, rusty red. The nose just pops- crunchy red Pinot fruit, so purely Burgundian, mixing it with a balmy peach note. Super depth and angularity, it shifts in the glass and reveals a meaty farmyard depth alongside that pretty fruit. A properly serious, complex wine which has its own style. (92 pts.)
  • 2020 Domaine François Cotat Sancerre Chavignol Rosé - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
    Bright, mineral, wild strawberry nose and sweet strawberry pavlova on the palate. Lots of body, a sense of fatness with an almost oily texture, with a prickle of heat on the finish. Quite a big wine with that body and residual sugar (and alcohol), not fitting the 'light and refreshing' or 'toothsome and savoury' rosé archetypes. (87 pts.)
Central/ South Italy
  • 2017 I Vigneri di Salvo Foti Vinudilice - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
    Enjoyed this thanks to some particularly detailed info from a tasting companion - a field blend of 10 varieties, grown on the NW of Etna so falling outside the DOC. All varieties harvested and vinified simultaneously, grown at 1300m elevation - one of the highest in Europe. Biodynamic, indigenous yeast. A very dark red - looks like a saignee wine. Notes of raspberry and nectarine with a charming sense of rusticity and a sweet talcum powder note and some ashiness. Concentrated but not particularly broad or substantial on the palate, a touch chewy and dry - feels like it's a real gastronomic food wine. (90 pts.)
  • 2022 Azienda Faraone Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Le Vigne di Faraone - Italy, Abruzzi, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo
    Nutty oxidative notes, some toffee, woody vetiver, roast garlic and parsley. Lots of savoury depth on the palate with a sweet and sour character, good acidity and presence on the finish (89 pts.)
A lonely Nebbiolo
  • 2022 Nervi-Conterno Il Rosato - Italy, Piedmont, Piemonte DOC
    On one hand this is a really good summer rosé- raspberry, strawberry and peach with good substance and depth. I'd happily drink this. Really bright and refreshing acidity. On the other hand, I'd never be able to tell where it's from or what grapes go into it - and given I thought the '21 had real recognisable Nebbiolo character, that's a missed opportunity. Nice wine though. (88 pts.)
Greece
  • 2013 Thymiopoulos Rosé de Xinomavro (Late Release) - Greece, Macedonia
    This has really blossomed since I last had a bottle, and I feel vindicated having bored everybody half to death about the cuvee. It's gained some herbal and caramelised complexity, a butteriness and a touch of oxidative nuttiness. That glossy mandarin fruit is present and correct, a savoury chew and skinsy textural grip while remaining flowing and clear. Mega stuff. (94 pts.)
  • 2022 Iliana Malihin Liatiko Rosé - Greece, Crete, Rethymno
    A really solid effort and ticks a number of nerd boxes. It has notes of strawberries and cream with a woody, herbaceous character, while remaining dry and gastronomic on the palate. (89 pts.)
Rioja
  • 2012 Bodega Classica Rioja Hacienda López de Haro Gran Reserva Rosado - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    Really interesting to try back to back with a Tondonia GR '11 Rosado. By comparison, this is a bit more modern and focused, and felt significantly younger than the year's difference in vintage would suggest. It's oxidative and nutty but with lots of energy - a bit tight in fact. Vanilla, clove, cinnamon and sweet amalfi lemons round out the flavour profile- I'd probably give it 5 years before it starts getting really interesting. Blend of Grenache and Viura. (91 pts.)
  • 2011 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
    Broad, relaxed, expansive- I got flashes of wooden school gym apparatus, orange peel, milky coffee. Very open and I'm not sure there are hidden depths waiting to emerge - instead it's confident and louche on the palate, notes of sherry, orange and lemon sherbet. Quite a singular wine and, for me, totally deserving of its reputation. (93 pts.)

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And the scores on the doors, courtesy @Ian Hampsted - the Thymiopoulos took the plaudits, followed by the Tondonia and Pataille
 
Spot on notes Josh very much matching the Amis-Grant gold standard - an enjoyable night with some serious wines. The 2013 Thymiopoulos really was a revelation - and you have been banging that particular drum for a long time - and on reflection was my top wine as it is in the sweet spot. So I tweaked my ranking and ironed out a couple of other irregularities in the table.

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The only disappointment relative to expectations was the Conterno. And perhaps the Cotat too with its 15% ABV...how did that happen? It was quite ironic sitting outside in cold rainy weather drinking rose...this really put them to the test and even the Triennes tasted good, and passed the test; and we didn't really have to worry at all about using ice buckets.
 
Some more notes from last night's successful tasting (despite the inappropriate weather!). Relatively unexciting voting this time, and I had the exact same 1, 2, 3 order as the group did overall, but there were a few others that weren't far behind in my affections.

I really don't know what to make of the Cotat (my contribution); I've given it a decent score as it was in some respects delicious, but also refused to tick the "I like this wine" box! I have two more and will likely keep at least one for ~10 years, in the interests of science.

POSH ROSÉS - 2024 SELECTION - Crouch End Cellars (22/05/2024)

I've mentioned the ABV for each wine, as they were all over the place.

Provence
  • 2021 Triennes Rosé - France, Provence, Mediterranée
    Crisp and peachy on the nose, with a touch - fortunately not too much - of pear drop. Fairly neutral on the palate, but with a tempting green streak. Clean, crisp, almost steely finish. A good example of type... now, where's the pool? 12.5% (88 pts.)
  • 2021 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé - France, Provence, Bandol
    Showed a lot better than a bottle last month, and more like my first try of this in 2023, so I've now concluded that the unyielding bottle was probably slightly corked. Served a little warmer than the Triennes but even so was clearly the richer wine, with a full, expansive nose that reminded me of fizzy green sweets, and a rounded, sensual, red-fruited palate. Some trademark bitter herbs on the finish. We all liked this, but doubt its value at current prices. Loads of life left. 13% (91 pts.)
Pinot
  • 2020 Domaine François Cotat Sancerre Chavignol Rosé - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
    I've not had a wine like this before, even though I've previously tried the 2015: that was like a high-quality 'rose on steroids' (and accordingly I ended up buying this bottle, then the current release) whilst this burst through the barrier of conventionality and resembled a pink dessert wine, or Fruli beer. Extremely ripe strawberry fruit on the nose, scented like a delicious sundae. Syrupy on the palate (it had the most defined 'legs' I've seen on a rose), more sweet red fruit and a mealy quality, the combined effect reminding me of cranachan. Very long finish. Tasty stuff, but also hard work; I would drink small glasses of this again with relish, but I'd ensure the wine was very well-chilled first. 15% (90 pts.)
  • 2019 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Marsannay Rosé Fleur de Pinot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay Rosé
    Such a contrast to the Cotat, not only because of its dusky crimson appearance but also its complete lack of sweetness. It did also remind me of a Belgian beer, but in this case a sour lambic rather than Fruli. A little bit natty on the nose, with crisp, lively red fruit. Mouthwateringly tangy on the palate, this wine was incredibly refreshing, and had added interest from some leafiness on the finish. A lot of fun, and my and the group's #3 favourite wine tonight. 12% (92 pts.)
Italy
  • 2017 I Vigneri di Salvo Foti Vinudilice - Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
    A high-altitude field blend of ten varieties, not all of them dark-skinned. Pretty oxidative on the nose, with an (attractive) scent of 'old wine' and a hint of something vanilla-sweet; I'm not sure if this cuvee always smells that way, or if it's a result of this bottle being seven years old. Lovely texture on the palate, with bright acidity and plenty of twisted peachy fruit. An attractive, grown-up wine. 12% (90 pts.)
  • 2022 Azienda Faraone Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo Le Vigne di Faraone - Italy, Abruzzi, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo
    Notably dark in appearance, evidencing a lot of concentration. So dusky and floral on the nose: I loved sniffing this beautifully-scented wine. Gloriously rich on the palate, with rounded (but not over-ripe) and concentrated red/blue fruit, and texturally interesting given the midpalate was smooth and silky but the finish was powdery and had some grip. Sexy stuff! 14.5% (92 pts.)
Nebbiolo
  • 2022 Nervi-Conterno Il Rosato - Italy, Piedmont, Piemonte DOC
    Young and heady on the nose, with watermelonesque fruit. Sleek and strawberryish on the palate, with high but well-integrated acidity. This is a lot more anonymous than one would expect of a Conterno wine - and I felt the same way about the '18 and the '19. I slightly preferred this to the Triennes, but that had more of a sense of style and place. 14% (89 pts.)
Greece
  • 2013 Thymiopoulos Rosé de Xinomavro (Late Release) - Greece, Macedonia
    Fifth bottle of this, and one of the best; it's such a good wine. Ineffable nose that provides a warm olfactory cuddle. Quite a bit of fruit on the palate, but in an original register: unlike the plethora of red fruit found on tonight's earlier wines, I tasted banana and sweet orange here, although ultimately this wine isn't so much about its individual characteristics as the simple fact that it's unique and delicious. My and the group's WOTN. 12.5% (94 pts.)
  • 2022 Iliana Malihin Liatiko Rosé - Greece, Crete, Rethymno
    Another great showing from Greece. Bouquet of delicate red fruit and rose. Bright and gentle on the palate despite having depth of flavour, with gorgeous piquant acidity. A serious wine made with a light touch, and delicious too. 14% (92 pts.)
Rioja
  • 2012 Bodega Classica Rioja Hacienda López de Haro Gran Reserva Rosado - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
    Smells really good, with deep yellow/orange fruit seasoned with a pinch each of ras el hanout and toasted almond. Big, powerful fruit on the palate, a distinct note of parma violets, and again the sense of something exotic. Very long, creamy, lipsmacking finish. I really enjoyed this (more than the 2009 of the same wine, which seemed a bit over-oaked by comparison). 13% (92 pts.)
  • 2011 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
    A 'wow' nose: strawberries-and-cream meets Madeira, and temptingly savoury too. Rancio, Campari and vanilla ice cream on the palate, which had compelling, chewy density and notable length. Really interesting, but also absolutely quaffable. My and the group's #2 tonight. 12.5% (93 pts.)
A fun and successful selection, with only the Cotat and the Conterno underperforming, and some really nice surprises. Shall be seeking out a few of these...
 
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  • 2016 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (23/05/2024)
    Pale green-hued straw. Enticing nose, saline but with an underlying richness that’s more about density than gras. Similar on the attack, proper Chablis with proper GC weight. Dense, chewy, mineral, saline, grippy and tangy acidity. Really proper GC Chablis. I was a little concerned it might be too ripe given the vintage, but not the case. With air, a hint of vanilla emerges from the sea spray, but it really only adds some additional complexity around the taut frame. Gosh, this is lovely. Opened a decade or so earlier than I’d normally contemplate, the result of having accidentally pulled a bottle rather than a full case back from offsite storage. Now, where are the other bottles… ****1/2 (94 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
 
Some lovely bottles enjoyed at Medlar & Kitchen W8.

The Sorba & Kistler at Medlar. I must say, it was the first time that I felt the food wasn't up the normal standard. The Boudignon at Kitchen W8 was fantastic with the food to match.

The Sori della Sorba really is a brilliant wine for those who are interested. The Kistler was fantastic while being so unashamedly Kstler.
 

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‘82 Calon Segur - Uh..Monday night, must be a ‘82 Bordeaux night then. Actually it’s to reward myself for a long bicycle ride this afternoon. PnP. Nose was not entirely clean, some moldy funk…let’s see how this developed later. 45 mins later, moldy notes mostly gone. Tannins not yet all resolved, still some tannin bites in the middle. Drinking rather young for a 42 years old claret, showing much younger than ‘89 tasted recently. Didn’t have the explosive “Chambolle“ nose of previous bottle but fairly similar on the palate though, silky with good balance. Close to peak but not there yet, ‘82 claret on the way down my ass.


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  • 2009 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (24/05/2024)
    Half. Deep ruby. Rich and glossy nose with a vanilla overlay. Dark red fruit. Densely silky. Not quite as luxe as a full bottle earlier in the year at the village burgundy dinner at 67PM, but not far off, just the half bottle effect coming in to play. Dark red fruit, spice, and a squeee of citrus on the finish. Lovely. **** (92 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
 
2017 Nikolou Botanic Brut Sparkling Retsina.

A clean, crisp, maybe slightly demure base wine here, appley, bready, supporting the principal thesis, a satisfyingly punchy dose of pine. At least by contemporary standards, maybe not enough to truly transport nostalgists to Greece under the colonels. Nonetheless the addition of CO2 is inspired.

Off the thoughtful, wide-ranging list at OMA in Borough Market, to accompany (which it did very well) a lunch which took in three kinds of genuinely world class bread; silky hummus two ways; labneh with XO salt cod (the most savoury condiment I have eaten this year); “deconstructed” spanakopita reeking of nutmeg; lobster bisque börek (outstanding pastry); buttery, frankly musky, red prawn giouvetsi; an octopus and sausage skewer with lamb sauce; grilled courgettes and pesto.

Just a few weeks in and the restaurant understandably packed out - it’s really fun, perhaps more canteen-like and commercial than truly hospitable. The bakery alone arguably justifies the trip.

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