TN Olympics Opening Weekend Tasting Notes

Leon Marks

Leon Marks

Location
London
Couldn't see one of these yet...

Lovely dinner with friends outside last night, only slightly marred by the fact that the new fancy charcoal I bought burned holes in the deck...I was so upset that Mrs M wasn't even able to get angry with me :-)

Leg of lamb on the bbq was superb, served with aubergine, courgette and some long red peppers -the meat allowed to rest and drip through the veg. Serious Eats Italian Salsa Verde elevated the whole thing - always struggled to get on with either anchovies or capers and they worked ever so well.

FRIDAY NIGHT "EMPERORS NEW CLOTHES" BBQ - At home in leafy West London (27/07/2024)

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Battle of the Bacchus
The conceit here was to serve blind an expensive (~£35) and inexpensive (~£8) English Bacchus and see if we could guess which was more expensive, and if we would prefer the more expensive one.
  • 2020 Bewl Water Bacchus - United Kingdom, England, Sussex, East Sussex
    Very pale colour. Elderflower on the nose - there's an intensity on the palate which isn't entirely vinous. Of the two I preferred this - less confected, more honest somehow.
  • 2021 Castlewood Vineyard Bacchus Devon Minnow - United Kingdom, England, South West, Devon
    Deeper colour. Elderflower here, but not quite as intense, and a kind of sauv blanc cats pee and gooseberry character. A kind of boiled sweet character I struggled to get on with. This was voted by the group as their favourite (3-2) and the one they thought was more expensive (4-1) of the English wines.
The rest
  • 2021 Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos de Mosny - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
    Here we go. Lovely balance, that kind of candied lemon acid and intensity, there's just a hint of tropicality behind it. It's got lovely mouthfeel and persistence.
  • 2021 Riverby Estate Chardonnay - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough
    Just half a glass and tasted a little hurriedly - seemingly a little more poised, angular than previously - perhaps drinking outside? Jolly decent stuff - autosuggestion perhaps but just a hint of heaviness that the 14% abv implies, but there's not much better value in the world of Chardonnay I don't think.
  • 2021 Pax Syrah Sonoma Hillsides - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Purple. I mean really purple. Already has thrown quite a bit of sediment, and yet, how purple it is. Fruit and a hint of earth on the nose, on the palate the fruit takes over, with a hint of white pepper. This is young, so young - tightly coiled. I have a sense that this is perhaps an even better wine than the 18 we had recently, but I'll wait a little while to open the next one. And such a civilised 12.5% abv.
  • 2014 Pax Syrah Castelli-Knight Ranch - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Hmmm - after the infanticide of the Sonoma Hills, this seems fully ready for business. More "new world syrah" in style, perhaps, a bit of glossiness there, but really nicely put together. A whiff of pepper but it's in balance now. Not as good of a wine i don't think, but more enjoyable now. Went down well with the dinner crowd.
Posted from CellarTracker
 
20240726_183552.jpgOne from a recent mystery box I wouldn't normally know or buy myself but pleasing, L'ecole 41 from Washington state. Leaner and less floral than, say, quality Saffer chenins, but similar profile in a minor key which meant it was well suited to salad.
A box of old tawny ports continues to fascinate. This 10 year old Cockburns was bottled in 1993 so presumably from 1983 harvest or thereabouts. It is now a rose colour, a light, tangy and very drinkable wine. 20240726_201756.jpg
 
Kicking off a busy weekend
A delightful bottle of champagne Laherte Freres ‘Rose de Meunier’ Extra Brut
dosage 2g/L Disgorged 01/07/2021, saignee , 40% reserve

Tempting colour , not too dark but whilst initially tight relaxing with an intense nose of wild strawberries and bush herbs.cranberry and peonies.Impeccably balanced and very classy.Fine persistant mouse of tiny bubbles and a chalky minerality finish.

The Barolo was in a stage of 50/50 . Still primary in line with this great vintage but expressive to partner food and monitor

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BIG WINE FREAKS' CLAIRE NAUDIN ECHEZEAUX VERTICAL - (25/7/2024)

Have to say I was slightly disappointed by these. I thought the NSG Damodes was a huge step up from the basic wines a couple of weeks ago, but I struggled to see the step up from the 1er to the Echs here.
Wines at Big Wine Freaks
  • 2014 Jacques Lassaigne Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Clos Sainte Sophie - France, Champagne
    Evident oak use with the round texture and nutty notes, Lassaigne acidity was still present but hidden behind the lush, ripe citrus fruit. Became sweeter with air. As usual with this producer, a contemplative wine that deserved to be followed on its own, but didn't manage to this time around. (92 pts.)
  • 2017 Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
    Second lightest (after the ‘21) and most traditional out of all the wines. Darker fruit but still elegant, with some rusticity and salinity that I liked. My favourite, but even so lacking the presence of a top, top grand cru. (93 pts.)
  • 2018 Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
    Superb restraint and refinement for a hot vintage. Not dense, but the most tannic out of all the wines which left some impressed but I prefer wines with more structure like this. (93 pts.)
  • 2020 Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
    Similar to the ‘18, i.e., excellent restraint for an otherwise dense vintage. More spice and rather brooding, but thought this had good potential to age. Most thought this was the weakest vintage at the table. (92 pts.)
  • 2019 Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
    Didn’t like this at first, felt that it was too sweet and candied. After a couple of hours it settled down to become more complete and balanced, with the purity and quality of the bright fruit really shining through. Was the favourite for most. (93 pts.)
  • 2021 Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
    Thought this was the worst of the lot but this had some fans because of the seductive nose, which to me came across as candied and jammy without the structure of ‘19 to back it up. Ultimately, dilute and hollow. (89 pts.)
  • 2020 Antoine Petitprez Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Bas Liards - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
    Not completely clean, too much barnyard funk that obscured the fruit and made the wine seem dusty and imprecise. (87 pts.)
  • 2019 Pierre Deville Champagne Grand Cru Copin Chardonnay Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
    Better than the last experience with this producer. A richer, red-fruited champagne without the nattiness of the Primitif that I tried previously. (91 pts.)



Second round at Shin Terroir
  • 2003 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
    Last bottle I tried in HK was a little off but the Marsannay of the same vintage alongside then convinced me that Mortet knocked it out of the park in '03. Completely integrated oak, rich and lush dark fruit but with sufficient acidity that made it so balanced and restrained for a '03. So seamless, balanced ethereal for a masculine wine - iron fist in velvet glove that I love. A wow wine that was absolutely in the zone now. (95 pts.)
  • 2017 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
    Dujac spice with stemmy dark red fruit. Immense potential with superb clarity and delineation of fruit, but quite reserved at the moment. (92 pts.)
  • 2013 Domaine Bertheau (Pierre et François) Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
    Some rusticity and greenness at first that made me think 2011 Burgundy, but developed a strange liquorice note that made me wonder if it was a new-world. Once that disappeared, floral notes clearly indicated that it was Chambolle but thought it was a poorer producer because it didn't have any lift. Bertheau can be maddeningly inconsistent. (88 pts.)

'02 VS '10 RED BURGUNDIES - (26/7/2024)

Wanted to do a '09 vs '10 comparison but someone said that '02 would be a better comparison (which I disagreed with, but was okay to go along with). In the end it was easy to tell because of the age difference between the wines, and the signature '02 sweetness was in huge contrast to the superbly balanced '10s. In any case, all the wines showed superbly, and this must be the first wine dinner where I liked all the wines equally. Two main takeaways: (i) CdBs in good makers' hands can be difficult to distinguish from CdNs, (ii) Jadots with some age punch seriously above their weight, don't understand people who hate on Jadots.
  • NV Bauchet Père et Fils Champagne Brut Signature - France, Champagne
    Clearly a Chard-dominant blend with lean, green fruit. Not much depth and a little sweet so more suitable for a crowd-pleaser sort of party wine. (90 pts.)
  • 2002 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
    Brought for a friend. So perfumed with lush, dark red fruit and the '02 sweetness. Some grippy tannins so most went with NSG on the Vosne side which I thought was a good guess. Drinking superbly now at its peak. (93 pts.)
  • 2002 Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
    Was between Vosne or Chambolle for this, went for the latter because of the sweet, floral nature. When revealed to be the former, I thought this wasn't a Suchots because it didn't have the structure. Silkier texture than the Gevrey that came before, but still very Jadot with its rich, generous fruit. After a couple of hours the palate thinned out, but the nose was still going strong with alluring floral and mocha notes. (93 pts.)
  • 2010 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Boudriotte Rouge - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
    As usual, a Ramonet red that fooled everyone into thinking it was a Vosne or Chambolle - most including myself guessed Vosne because of the seductive, spicy nose. Dark red cherry fruit, elegant and seamless on the palate as is the norm for a '10. (93 pts.)
  • 2010 Louis Jadot Corton-Pougets Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
    Friend who brought this decanted into a Voss bottle three hours before dinner. Another seamless, impeccably balanced '10 with spicy and mocha notes that made everyone think that this was a Vosne. Superb structure that needs more time to unfurl; surprised at how silky this was for a Corton, no hard edges whatsoever. (93 pts.)
  • 2010 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
    My contribution. Quite tight at first, but developed a superb floral, lifted nose after time in the glass. Palate was tighter but again another elegant, spicy CdB that made everyone guess Vosne. Tannins became a little grainier with air that made it clear that it was a CdB. Rich, lush dark fruit balanced by a driven acidity that helped to alleviate some of the serious structure; another superbly balanced '10. (93 pts.)

 
Richard Ward said:
This was stunning tonight:

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Aromatic, tropical, quite exotic, but underpinned by limey acidity and the faintest hint of petrol. There is just a grain or 2 of RS which just takes the acidic edge off the finish. Elegant and poised. An absolutely beautiful wine.
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Superb wine, I quite agree. It is so far off-dry as almost to be sweet in my book, which is no sense at all a problem if that is anticipated.
 
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2020 vintage and picked up at a serious wine action for £4 a bottle. Alcohol is a modest 11.5 % and there is enough varietal flavour coming through amongst the slightly creamy fruit and delicate acidity. Not a hint of sweetness and it’s in a similar vane to Whispering Angel, but not quite at that level. Great summer lunch wine. No idea what this cost retail on release, but I’m sure those who bought it would have been very happy.
 
Decided to compare and contrast this weekend:

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Friday night was the Montlanderie 2017, picked up in a recent well-known merchants summer sale. Around £18 or per bottle on the table and you’d be hard pressed to find something better for the price. This disappeared far too quickly. This will become my “house claret” for the next little while, and I hear the 2019 is just as good or maybe even better.

Saturday night we dialled it up several notches on the Durantou scale with the L’Eglise Clinet ‘88:

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A classy wine; even at this age the oak still quite prominent. You get the impression from this bottle that this will just go on and on and on. Delicious.
 
David Mansfield said:
Dinner with 2 other forumites. These were all perfect and serious examples. This what one dreams of. Food to match too, of A suitable standard. Not shown also a Avina Pernot 2020 Puligny Floatieres that was a joy too. Latimers are very keen on this grower.
The Ponsot will live long in the memory.View attachment 39446
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I have sometimes thought that Ponsot's wines at their best are as good as burgundy gets. I wonder if the current post-fragmentation wines measure up?
 
My mate Alex came up with idea of some Bourgogne Rouge at 5 years old so we had three 2019,' s. In order of merit - 1. Marc Roy, 2.Tollot Beaut and 3. Bachelet Monnot.
The Roy was the most complete wine with structure, minerality, earth and fruit that will unfurl over the next couple of years. A Village Gevrey really. We speculated that some of the fruit might be from wines too young for the VV? No idea.
I thought the Tollot was very appealing. Red fruit, some earth, v.well balanced. Charming.
The Bachelet had round dark red fruit little tannin and the least structure but very drinkable.
Nothing generic about any of them, all had their own character and sense of place especially the Roy. I often moan about the prices but this showed you can get enjoyable stuff for sensible money if you pick the right producers. Alexandrine and Nathalie on top form as usual.

Finishing the meal with Lafaurie Peyraguey 2001. What can I say? It was layered, rich, complex and intense whilst linear, clean and ethereal at the same time. The Seville orange bitterness was pitch perfect and held it all together. Marvelous20240727_221654.jpg
 

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2023 Riverby Sauvignon Blanc. If you are a fan of NZ SB then this wouldn’t disappoint. Lots of freshly cut grass, full of zing and energy. Very appealing.

2013 Comtes Lafon, Meursault Desirée. A bit reductive at the moment, I’m sure there is a lovely wine lurking there somewhere, but it’s buried at the moment.

2022 Rupert & Rothschild Baroness Nadine Chardonnay. This was served blind to me, and I failed to identify grape or country of origin. I guessed an Italian Fruili, how wrong could I be. Some ripeness and enough acidity but a little bland.

1990 Biondi-Santi BdM Riserva. Extremely polished, an aristocratic wine, just effortlessly good.

2004 Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz. Quite cool red and blue fruits, the 14.5% alcohol is nicely integrated. Polished tannins and enough acidity.
 
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We had these this weekend. The Thanisch Berncasteler Doctor Kab 2012 is our current house Riesling. In a perfect place for drinking now. All apple and lemon with decent maturity. 91

The Faustino Rioja GR 2001 was our final bottle. Lovely Gran Reserva complexity alongside great fruit but after an hour this was starting to dry out. Probably needs drinking soon 91.

The Branaire 01 was classic St Julien in a modest vintage. Light blackcurrant with plenty of gravelly red fruit. Early maturity and a soft finish typical of this vintage. 90.
 
Chateau Meyney 2014

I sourced a bottle of this wine last week from Will. I was fascinated to try it because I had read polarised - but overwhelmingly favourable -reviews notably from Jim Howe, Jean-Nicolas Maltais and the BWE crowd and esteemed critics like Jeff Leve, Neal Martin and Jane Anson.

Initial impressions are not favourable. It is horribly over-extracted. It has bitter acerbic tannins and a drying finish. Ooff.

I opened a half bottle of Haut-Bailly 04 as a back ground comparison, a wine I have found difficult and struggled with over the years because of its glacial evolution. But it is chalk and cheese. The 2004 Haut Bailly is beautifully harmonious and balanced in comparison to the discombobulated 2014 Meyney.

Btw the Meyney was not faulty in the technical sense - although the label was tatty because it had been in a damp cellar - it was not corked, oxidised, heat damaged or in any other technical way faulty.

I struggled through two glasses on the first night before throwing in the towel . Day two, it had softened a bit around the edges but was still unpleasant. It still suffered from the same shortcomings as it did on day one: over extraction and over oaking, which leave a nasty bitter aftertaste on the palate. I only managed one more glass.

It is unnaturally forced and contrived, fighting the character of the vintage. In my opinion it is a meh wine. If you drink this wine I would recommend 1/ opening it well in advance (at least a day but that didn’t really improve things for me), or 2/ leave it for another decade and hope it resolves and softens (probably your best bet), or 3/ drink it with a rare 400g porterhouse steak or 4/ all of the above.

It is 14% abv according to Lay & Wheeler - that bit of the label was torn off - how can a wine be 14% abv in a cool, non-solar vintage? If this bottle is typical, which I am pretty sure it is, how come the critics can’t spot this and call it out?

Maybe I am too much a Bordeaux purist and maybe I am wrong, but I have solid conviction based on this experience. In my opinion the hallmark of great Bordeaux is balance, equilibrium and harmony. This wine has none of those qualities.
 
Simon Grant said:
By way of comparison, what did you think of 04 Haut Bailly a decade ago? Jason M kindly served me the 16 Meyney from half six or so months ago, and while young and very full on, it seemed balanced in a way that didn’t cause concern that extensive cellar time wouldn’t work its magic.
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Ian is going to receive one of those half bottles shortly to review . I’m not convinced it will change his opinion!
 
Yes Simon Jason has kindly offered me a half of 2016 Meyney, which I will pick up in mid August.

I am not particularly optimistic on the 2016 but am hopeful that it will an improvement on the 2014 because the 2016 vintage did not need souping up. The problem with the 2014 is that the winemaker(s) clearly tried to fashion an extracted and concentrated wine in a cool non solar vintage. The result speaks for itself. I am sure that this will soften over time but I doubt this will ever resolve into a wine that I will ever enjoy. Given the nature of the vintage there is perhaps more hope for the 2016, let’s see.

The HB 04 has been very slow to evolve but now drinking very well from 375 format. It was just backward and tannic but not unbalanced in the way that the 2014 Meyney clearly is, and which tastes like Angelus from the mid noughties.
 
Ian Hampsted said:
Chateau Meyney 2014

I sourced a bottle of this wine last week from Will. I was fascinated to try it because I had read polarised - but overwhelmingly favourable -reviews notably from Jim Howe, Jean-Nicolas Maltais and the BWE crowd and esteemed critics like Jeff Leve, Neal Martin and Jane Anson.
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Thinking of Ch Meyney - has anyone tried the 2015 yet - CT notes are almost universally positive? Sad to hear that the 2014 sounds unbalanced.
 
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