Supersized Loire at The Laundry 21.05.24

This is just a quick placeholder before some notes get written up and posted tomorrow - and what a lovely evening this was. Loire wines often get overlooked in the offline calendar, but the wines we enjoyed tonight were all at least good and some very much better than that. The Laundry looked after us very well. We were made to feel welcome and they were happy to deploy their best glasses for us, although it still makes sense to bring your own glasses in the overall scheme of things. The food was straightforward, honest, and really flavoursome it and suited the wines just perfectly. It was just a lovely, relaxed evening. Thank you everyone for bringing some super enjoyable wines.
 
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Here is the line up.

Agreed, a very enjoyable evening. Still can’t believe how quickly the mag of 2005 disappeared. Definite wine of the night. I also really enjoyed the 2003 Jouget, the heat of the vintage working well here. Interesting to taste these reds together as I generally buy Chinon and Saumur reds from the Loire (I think just because those are the places I’ve visited) but I generally preferred the bourgueil wines tonight so I must balance things out a bit in the cellar.

Of the whites I had a clear preference for the acidity and energy of the Jacky Blot flight. Both delicious and in the zone aged 10yo. The Remus Plus (Montlouis) is like burgundy in weight and poise, but with a more appley complexion. Amazing length and acidity, that just travels. The Venise is a walled vineyard in Vouvray but vinified in Montlouis, hence the VDF. The acidity is lively to say the least. Bruised apple and spikey limes, transform into toffee apple with time. Just glorious.

Although others were very enthusiastic about the 1990 Savennieres it’s just not my bag. The first few sips were enjoyable but after that I found it very heavy going, chewy and I couldn’t get past the soapyness. I felt like I was drinking shower gel. The cotat was a bit of a rogue, the 2009 vintage had pushed the alcohol up to 15% which made for quite a bruiser. It actually worked well with the asparagus dish however.

All in all a great evening although I definitely feel the magnum effect in the head this morning!
 
Sounds great chaps.

I thought of you all as I drove across the top of Brixton Hill last night on my unusually M25 free journey back from Bristol. Sure you had more fun than me in the 4 hours and 40 between leaving the office in Bristol and getting home!
 
And here are some notes.

Montlouis Remus Plus Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Jacky Blot 2014
Quince on the nose – and a sense purity. No oxidative notes. This wine has a nice texture and hangs together well. No fireworks, but a there’s a nicely artisanal feel to this wine. One to drink fairly soon I’d say. A good start to the evening.
Vin de France blanc ‘Venise’ Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Jacky Blot 2014
This is a Vouvray made in Montlouis – hence the VdF designation. This wine has quite a natural feel to it with some brittleness on the nose where there are some baked apple skin notes and something like hot brakes/cinders. The nose does settle a bit to show toffee apple and butterscotch notes, but I preferred the purity of the Montlouis. Quite a delicate wine. Not sure what to make of this really.
Sancerre La Grande Côte Francois Cotat 2009
This was my second encounter with a 2009 F. Cotat Sancerre and nothing has changed. It is still ripe and dessert like on the palate even though vinified to 15% alcohol. I think to be fair that this is more aromatic than the Monts Damnés was. Definitely demi-sec and I think there might be a thread of botrytis here. Not typical and a difficult wine to drink early in the evening.
Savennières Trie Spéciale Domaine Baumard 1990
Now this is also a fifteen percenter, but it is vinified dry and all the better for that. Savennières is always a challenging wine in some respects, and this is a big and unusual wine that I really enjoyed. The nose is quite exotic with a chenin nose of wool, lanolin, waxy yellow fruit, a dash of rose petal and some goat’s cheese. That sounds a bit weird, but it worked and the washed rind cheese note subsided as the evening went on. Still fresh on the palate with some baked yellow fruit and baked apple in evidence. There is a generous, but not cloying texture. Finishes with a melon rind note. Carries the 15% alcohol remarkably well. This bottle was not the best of his batch according to Daniel D, but I thought this was in good condition for its age.
Chninon Les Grézeaux Domaine Baudry 2010
Proper Chinon here that was light on its feet for a 2010. Red fruited, restrained, fresh zippy and sappy, lifted and savoury. There are some tannins evident towards the finish, but they are fairly mellow. Finishes with a dash of cinders/charcoal. Overall, elegant and gentle.
Chinon Clos du Chêne Vert Domaine Joguet 2003
I was nervous when Chris suggested the 2003, but all nervousness evaporated on encountering the wine in the flesh. There is a very claret like nose here with blackcurrant, tobacco, cigar box, some blackberry coulis and even some more exotic notes like iodine and tar in the background. I hope that list of adjectives sounds appetizing, because the nose was gorgeous. Quite full and rounded for a Chinon, but also showing good line. The mid-palate has lovely ripe and yet also savoury dark red fruit veering to the black side in register. This is 14% alcohol, but you’d never guess that. Drinking beautifully. Very much a ringer for CF dominated claret.
Bourgueil Cuvée Prestige Domaine Lamé-Delisle-Boucard 2005 en magnum
What a difference a year makes. While the 2006 was a very attractive wine both at Less Celebrated France WIMPS and here at The Laundry, the 2005 is a bit better on every dimension. There might have been the faintest hint of VA initially on the nose but this subsided and revealed lovely tobacco infused red fruit, but what LDB do especially well is texture. This wine is really mouthcoating and complete while also being light on its feet. The balance between tannin and fruit is nigh on perfect. There is a cedary note on the mid-palate too. The acidity is just right. I’d back this to age another 20 years in magnum if well kept, but it was also a joy to drink on the night.
Bourgueil Cuvée Prestige Domaine Lamé-Delisle-Boucard 2006 en magnum
I felt a bit sorry for the Cinderella-esque 2006. It was doing everything right, but just not as right as the 2005. Broad and sappy on the palate with plenty of quite dark, savoury fruit. Slightly more evolved than the 2005, but this will also go another 10-15 years in magnum. I’ve always been a fan of this domaine which now also produces two single vineyard wines; a Brunetières and a Martinière, both starting with the 2015 vineyard I think.

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And here are some notes.

Montlouis Remus Plus Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Jacky Blot 2014
Quince on the nose – and a sense purity. No oxidative notes. This wine has a nice texture and hangs together well. No fireworks, but a there’s a nicely artisanal feel to this wine. One to drink fairly soon I’d say. A good start to the evening.
Vin de France blanc ‘Venise’ Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Jacky Blot 2014
This is a Vouvray made in Montlouis – hence the VdF designation. This wine has quite a natural feel to it with some brittleness on the nose where there are some baked apple skin notes and something like hot brakes/cinders. The nose does settle a bit to show toffee apple and butterscotch notes, but I preferred the purity of the Montlouis. Quite a delicate wine. Not sure what to make of this really.
Sancerre La Grande Côte Francois Cotat 2009
This was my second encounter with a 2009 F. Cotat Sancerre and nothing has changed. It is still ripe and dessert like on the palate even though vinified to 15% alcohol. I think to be fair that this is more aromatic than the Monts Damnés was. Definitely demi-sec and I think there might be a thread of botrytis here. Not typical and a difficult wine to drink early in the evening.
Savennières Trie Spéciale Domaine Baumard 1990
Now this is also a fifteen percenter, but it is vinified dry and all the better for that. Savennières is always a challenging wine in some respects, and this is a big and unusual wine that I really enjoyed. The nose is quite exotic with a chenin nose of wool, lanolin, waxy yellow fruit, a dash of rose petal and some goat’s cheese. That sounds a bit weird, but it worked and the washed rind cheese note subsided as the evening went on. Still fresh on the palate with some baked yellow fruit and baked apple in evidence. There is a generous, but not cloying texture. Finishes with a melon rind note. Carries the 15% alcohol remarkably well. This bottle was not the best of his batch according to Daniel D, but I thought this was in good condition for its age.
Chninon Les Grézeaux Domaine Baudry 2010
Proper Chinon here that was light on its feet for a 2010. Red fruited, restrained, fresh zippy and sappy, lifted and savoury. There are some tannins evident towards the finish, but they are fairly mellow. Finishes with a dash of cinders/charcoal. Overall, elegant and gentle.
Chinon Clos du Chêne Vert Domaine Joguet 2003
I was nervous when Chris suggested the 2003, but all nervousness evaporated on encountering the wine in the flesh. There is a very claret like nose here with blackcurrant, tobacco, cigar box, some blackberry coulis and even some more exotic notes like iodine and tar in the background. I hope that list of adjectives sounds appetizing, bceuse the nose was gorgeous. Quite full and rounded for a Chinon, but also showing good line. The mid-palate has lovely ripe and yet also savoury dark red fruit veering to the black side in register. This is 14% alcohol, but you’d never guess that. Drinking beautifully. Very much a ringer for CF dominated claret.
Bourgueil Cuvée Prestige Domaine Lamé-Delisle-Boucard 2005 en magnum
What a difference a year makes. While the 2006 was a very attractive wine both at Less Celebrated France WIMPS and here at The Laundry, the 2005 is a bit better on every dimension. There might have been the faintest hint of VA initially on the nose but this subsided and revealed lovely tobacco infused red fruit, but what LDB do especially well is texture. This wine is really mouthcoating and complete while also being light on its feet. The balance between tannin and fruit is nigh on perfect. There is a cedary note on the mid-palate too. The acidity is just right. I’d back this to age another 20 years in magnum if well kept, but it was also a joy to drink on the night.
Bourgueil Cuvée Prestige Domaine Lamé-Delisle-Boucard 2006 en magnum
I felt a bit sorry for the Cinderella-esque 2006. It was doing everything right, but just not as right as the 2005. Broad and sappy on the palate with plenty of quite dark, savoury fruit. Slightly more evolved than the 2005, but this will also go another 10-15 years in magnum. I’ve always been a fan of this domaine which now also produces two single vineyard wines; a Brunetières and a Martinière, both starting with the 2015 vineyard I think.

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I purchased the 2015 Brunetieres from BBR in 2019 and still have 3 left. My impression has been that these aren't for the long-haul but based on your observations here sounds as though I'm probably wrong!!
 
Many thanks to all co-participants last night. Out of the germ of a chance to do a relatively unusual mini-vertical of large format Bourgueil grew a really enjoyable and engrossing survey of the Loire. My overall impression was of a set of wines that were honest, direct and refreshingly easy to get to grips with.

The pair from Jacky Blot were a great start. I could get fully on board with the rich rose petal character of the Savennieres, almost tending to gewurztraminer, if you replaced the voluptuous oiliness of a Weinbach, say, with some kind of delicate yet insistent farmhouse cheese. The Cotat really came to life when paired with green asparagus, pungent aioli and granola which was strongly flavoured with cumin.

It was a strong evening for the reds all round. I am off to a tasting of 2009 clarets later - if they all offer similar pleasure to the Joguet I will have done very well I think.

My third offline at the Laundry and second Loire-themed one. The food offer somehow seems particularly well suited for it, as does the large terrace on a balmy spring evening… in reality we were huddled in the basement as far away from the elements as possible…

A lovely evening, weather notwithstanding, and in this important week in the horticultural calendar, I enjoyed the idea of using a whole baked shoulder of lamb as the structural base for a vibrant and pretty display of ocimum basilicum, supported by radish, courgette and broad beans, “Kitchen Garden”

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Agree a lovely evening, both fun and educational, on a region I don't drink much of - many thanks for accepting me as an attendee at the last minute. A nice setting too.

Montlouis Remus Plus Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Jacky Blot 2014
Classically crisp, appley Loire Chenin. A little tough. Very nice and will appeal strongly to Loire-o-philes. 5+/7
Vin de France blanc ‘Venise’ Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Jacky Blot 2014
Feels richer but also softer. Leesy. A bit clunkier. With time, mature notes emerge - possibly a little over the top (it's also darker than the Montlouis). Has some interesting character, but drink up. 5-/7
Sancerre La Grande Côte Francois Cotat 2009
The Sauv Bl sticks out a mile in this line up of Chenins - grassy. Quite straightforward. Rich though - like a cross between white Bordeaux and white Rhone. Didn't grab me. 5-/7
Savennières Trie Spéciale Domaine Baumard 1990
Not excessively dark. Really super nose, bright grapefruit, butter, spice, a bit of new carpet...weighty but not OTT. Multi-faceted. Yumm. 6+/7
Chinon Les Grézeaux Domaine Baudry 2010
Dark (much more so than the Joguet). Touch gamey on nose but not giving much. Similarly narrow on palate. Light, touch short. Redeemed by some nice secondary flavours of olives and herbs. Nice but not classy 5-/7
Chinon Clos du Chêne Vert Domaine Joguet 2003
Proper, complex, herbal, Graves-y nose. Very harmonious. Great fruit/acidity balance. Actually has finesse. Super wine. 6+/7 (Savennieres nicks it for interest value)
Bourgueil Cuvée Prestige Domaine Lamé-Delisle-Boucard 2005 en magnum
Completely different league to the 06 - a reminder of the days when the vintage really made a difference. This is complete, harmonious and smooth with a Bordeaux-ish feel. Lovely wine and still going strong - further ageing may bring more dimensions, a la Joguet. The one to have in your cellar. 6/7
Bourgueil Cuvée Prestige Domaine Lamé-Delisle-Boucard 2006 en magnum
Struck me as being like a Loire red of old. Bit of drains and old tobacco on the nose, wild, tomato-y palate with 'firm' tannins. Clunky. Not without enjoyment, but not a classy wine. 5-/7
 
Glad to see the Baumard showing well. I think it’s a super wine….as are the other vintages of the Trie Speciale - which is not made very often. Shame to have missed this and glad you all enjoyed it. Sounds like a fun evening.
 
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