TN Weekend 7-11 Feb 2025

Ken,
If this is indeed you first time with Comtes, whilst you started with a highly regarded vintage your comment about admiring rather than loving it may well become the epitaph for the 08 vintage champagnes and perhaps trying a Comtes from another vintage might be worthwhile.
Thanks Raymond, that’s helpful to know. I have single bottles of the 06 and 11, and am pretty sure I only very recently read a positive note here on the former
 
Blast Vintners have Lionnet 17 for £32 a pop. That's one of the best bargains ever.
I'm sure I picked up quite a few bottles there at around the same price a couple of years ago. I did think I was the only person who had caught on to the charms of Lionnet Cornas' various cuvées but now the cat is out the bag :confused:
 
This pair today:
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The Roederer was consumed whilst watching the rugby - my first bottle of the 244, it's clearly too young still but is crackling with energy and very enjoyable in a spritzy, primary citrus way. The Cote Rotie came after with steaks (ribeye for me, sirloin for Vicki), triple cooked chips and Bearnaise - absolutely beautiful, mellow menthol and blackcurrant pastilles with a buttery and herbal finish. Bottle 10 from a full case of 12 bought on BBX for relatively little money - undoubtedly one of my all time best purchases.
 
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  • NV Hervieux-Dumez Champagne Premier Cru Cuvée Brut Tradition - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (08/02/2025)
    50% Pinot Noir, 25 % Meunier, 25% Chardonnay. 9 g/l dosage. 3 years lees aging before disgorgement. Pleasant nose with some citrus freshness and hints of praline. Palate is similar with a touch of blueberry coulis great balance between tartness and the sweetness. Sourced from the cellar door in Sacy; lovely people great wines. (91 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
 
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Tonight Marquis d’Angerville Volnay Champans 2009. Tasted and bought en primeur. The first from a recently delivered case of 12. Champans is I think capable of producing what may be thought to be archetypal Volnay. Floral, sensual and bags of allure. This 2009 Champans has it all in spades. Abundant ripe red fruit as you might expect but also a sufficient undertow of rocky minerals to provide balance and credibility. Silky smooth and effortlessly powerful on the palate with a relentlessly sunny disposition. You simply have to give in and enjoy the ride. I am not complaining.
 
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Tonight Marquis d’Angerville Volnay Champans 2009. Tasted and bought en primeur. The first from a recently delivered case of 12. Champans is I think capable of producing what may be thought to be archetypal Volnay. Floral, sensual and bags of allure. This 2009 Champans has it all in spades. Abundant ripe red fruit as you might expect but also a sufficient undertow of rocky minerals to provide balance and credibility. Silky smooth and effortlessly powerful on the palate with a relentlessly sunny disposition. You simply have to give in and enjoy the ride. I am not complaining.
I still remember fondly a bottle of your 06 at La T back in 2018!
 
Actually, I'm going to expand on this. @Richard Zambuni is absolutely correct to love Cornas, it's one of the best buys in the world at the moment. The whole AC is about 110ha, tiny - the size of a medium sized Bordeaux producer, yet you can get things like Lionnet 22 for only £40 a bottle. The wines are glorious and show so much variation, plus they improve over decades.

Dumien-Serrette is affordable. Bourg, who I think just owns under 2ha is easily accessible. Lionnet is delicious and a lot of fun. Gilles is brilliant. Cuilleron's lieu-dit les Cotes is very enjoyable. All these producers are making proper Cornas that is reach of even my wallet even though the total production of Cornas is so small. Any affordable producers you'd add to the list, Zambers? Oh Domaine de Tunnel are good. Just buy. You'll be so richly rewarded.
Only Balthazar @Davy Strange. A&E Verset may get there, but it’s too early to say.
 
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  • 2013 Maison Roy & Fils Pinot Noir Incline - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley (08/02/2025)
    Just over 30 months on from previous bottle. Mid ruby, slightly cloudy. Stemmy lift, a touch of garam masala too. A lifted, whole cluster feel without the cidery twang of the immediately previous bottle, though a slight prickle on the palate nonetheless. Slightly crunchy, red berry fruit. Silky texture, finely dense. This appears to be pulling though a six year or so awkward phase and is starting to show really quite attractively. Darker and more savoury after several hours air. ***1/2 (90 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
 
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2002 Simon Bose, Latricières Chambertin. I had been looking forward to this for a few days, and frankly it didn’t disappoint.
There is so much going on, the nose beguiles, rose petals, cloves, some earthiness, rose petals roll over onto the palate, spice, some semblance of red fruit, but an ethereal energy is what makes this so good. A lovely lift on the finish too, ravishing. 93
 
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2002 Simon Bose, Latricières Chambertin. I had been looking forward to this for a few days, and frankly it didn’t disappoint.
There is so much going on, the nose beguiles, rose petals, cloves, some earthiness, rose petals roll over onto the palate, spice, some semblance of red fruit, but an ethereal energy is what makes this so good. A lovely lift on the finish too, ravishing. 93
Sounds great, Ed.
 
Another 2002 GC here though I fear that “ravishing” will rarely apply to Corton. Nonetheless, 2002 Prince Florent de Morode Corton Clos du Roi is excellent and improving nicely with age. Some faded orange colour at the edge. There’s an immediate hit of lovely high toned floral red fruit on the nose - very expressive. There’s depth here as well with unexpected soy and Asian spice alongside earthy truffle notes and still with plenty of bright red fruit. Lots of immediate appeal on the palate too though not yet completely resolved or integrated. Good sour red fruit and some velvet tannins - good hefty presence, some peppery spice here too. This has opened up since previous bottle in 2022 but plenty of positive evolution to come too.
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SUNDAY NIGHT STEW - (09/02/2025)

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  • 2012 Domaine Charles Audoin Marsannay Cuvée Marie Ragonneau - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
    Stored vertically in the fridge for several weeks under coravin. No ill effects noted. Garnet with a hint of purple. Quiet nose - need to sniff deep (in the Zhalto bordeaux) to get some earthy notes an a hint of something herbaceous. On the palate - good line, hints of cherry and almond on the finish - this isn't flabby, but nor is it thin or mean...just doing it's thing, and very nicely it is too. 2012 Burg is doing the business right now.
  • 2017 Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Perrières - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil
    Another bottle that's survived weeks (months?) upright in the fridge under Coravin. Purple colour just starting to subside. Earthy, herbal notes, some dark fruits on the nose. On the palate - just a hint of funk, not awkward but you wouldn't have minded if it had cleaned its shoes before walking on your carpet. Lovely structure, tannins and acids working well together, this isn't too young but it's just starting to be an adult. Herbaceous quality to the finish.
Posted from CellarTracker
 
Saturday night steak with Mauro Molino Gallinoto 2015, Barolo
This wine comes from the Berri vineyard, their name predates the vineyards official name.
Highest La Morra vineyard at 400m.
Now drinking very well. A middle ruby colour, transparent with notes of black and red tea, steeped cherry, with a floral tint on the nose. Long with ripe and integrated tannins.
I brought this at the winery in 2019. 17/20
 
After enjoying the Carl Loewen 1896 at this weeks Riesling-a-thon it seemed appropriate to pop another, this time the Loewen Herrenberg Kabinett 2021.

This is also made from 100 year old year old ungrafted vines, but doesn’t have the same foot trodden / basket press winemaking.

It’s certainly got the line of 2021 acidity, and it’s drinking very well. Almost a spatlese weight and texture, but not at all cloying. Honeyed, with a hint of mint and lime. No doubt I’m drinking it too young and it would be better in a decade or more, but it’s got zest and energy now that makes it very drinkable.

Not really a comparator with the class of the Loewen 1896, but at about a third the price it’s a lovely kabinett.
 

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Some time ago I purchased a couple of bottles of St-Hallet Old Block Shiraz 2001 from a friendly forumite in Berkshire. In my formative wine years of yore, this and the legendary Rockford Basket Press shiraz - both from the Barossa - were among my favourites tipples, and still are really, though I haven’t tried modern iterations of either (e.g., post-2010).

The first one consumed three years ago was flat out fabulous and so was this one. Wonderful blueberry and plummy entry with some tobacco, menthol, eucalyptus and barbqued red meats, and less of the tar, asphalt and coal notes of the last bottle, but they were still there. This is in the last few years of its drinking window but a veritable treat; sad to wave goodbye – 94/95

Tonight with pasta with family I decided on a whim to open a bottle of Burlotto Barolo Acclivi 2015 after having hauled all my Burlotto stock, which was subject to duty, out of TWS to beat the increase. I have had mixed experiences with Acclivi but this, I must say, is impressive. It is still young, structured and tannic, but I splash decanted it and really roughed it up a lot, which seemed to work well to unlock its wares. Strong acidity and structure, with notes of herbs, roses, strawberry, violets, black tea, crushed rocks, it does not quite have the ethereal weightlessness of a great Monvigliero from this address, but it is still a compelling wine – 93/94

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I have a couple of the '17. Whilst I have been opening & enjoying red Burgundy from this vintage, i had heeded JM who reckons start drinking this year. In view of Ben's comments, more patience needed.
 
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