Weekenders: 2nd, 3rd, 4th June.

[Christopher Topham-Smith]

Looks great-except for the strings left on the beans!

Personally I'm very happy for what I call the hook (a vestige of the flower style) to be left on my French beans and mangetout, as opposed to the less digestible foot end. But then I thoroughly enjoy the taste/texture of potato skins left in rustic mash and I literally weep at the sight of peeled green asparagus...

 

[Thom Blach]

I don't peel asparagus if I have picked them myself but otherwise I do, to quite a large extent to avoid waste-if one 'sharpens' the spears there is no need to throw away the bottom part, so unnecessarily discarded by many. The other quite colossal advantage of peeling is of course that the stalks cook at the same rate as the tips, thus avoiding that bizarre nonsense with asparagus steamers etc. I don't know what to say about skins in mashed potatoes!

 

[Richard Ward]

Back home today after 2 days of food and wine brilliance - had a couple of Peroni watching the cup final, then fired up the BBQ for some Halloumi and Lamb Chops, served with houmous, baba ghannoush, flatbreads and a tomato and olive salad. Washed down with the first rosé of the summer:



Proper Provence style rosé - bone dry with red apple and strawberry fruit, and cleansing acidity. A good food wine.

 

[Richard Ward]

The other quite colossal advantage of peeling is of course that the stalks cook at the same rate as the tips

I always peel it for precisely this reason.

 

[Richard Zambuni]

Tonight after rejecting a poor second half of Coravined Domaine de Chevalier 2002 I have opened a Cornas Patou Vieilles Vignes Dumien-Serrette 2010. This is a really lovely wine and one I wish I had had to hand when we drank a series of vintages at Ariana II. it is ripe and savoury at the same time with the tannins now taking a backward step. So pure and honest. Really good length and a sense of a really unforced wine. Has the generosity and roundness that is typical of Patou. This is just such good N. Rhône syrah and it is drinking beautifully. For reference this is well ahead of the 2015 in drinkability. A clearly ***** wine.

 

[Neil Holland]

• 2017 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Pernand-Vergelesses Combottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses (03/06/2023)
  The nose has a lovely pear skin quality as well as a charming lime blossom note and a little smokiness. Given how reductive these can be it was decanted for an hour before broaching and improved over the evening. Palate has a beautiful wet stone minerality, gorgeous acidity and, ten seconds after swallowing, a gorgeous lime juice caress for the tongue. First of six. Has plenty in the tank to my palate. Cracking. (92 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

 

[christopher prain]

View attachment 31817

2010 Blagny La Pièce sous le Bois, Matrot.
I’m about halfway through a dozen bought en primeur, a wine which has shown well from the off, with some maturity it had gained a little weight, but is still lithe, plenty of red fruit with some darker mulberry notes, earthy tones starting to evolve and a pleasant freshness on the finish. It’s a pity that this isn’t the steal that it once was.

Enjoying this after a run, it’s been stood up for a week or so. The first half was translucent and the second cloudy. Nonetheless I’ve really enjoyed this as both the nose and palatte are balanced between freshness/acidity and fruit/tertiary. Really a very well made wine without perhaps the pedigree of vineyard to be great but it really is lovely red Burgundy to be enjoyed.

 

[Thom Blach]

Enjoying this after a run, it’s been stood up for a week or so. The first half was translucent and the second cloudy. Nonetheless I’ve really enjoyed this as both the nose and palatte are balanced between freshness/acidity and fruit/tertiary. Really a very well made wine without perhaps the pedigree of vineyard to be great but it really is lovely red Burgundy to be enjoyed.

The good bottles have a particular beauty. The recent release must be about the tenth and I don't suppose the bottle variation has become any less extreme. The sediment is famous, I think it was the 1983 Auxey Les Ecusseaux that needed standing upright for eight months to clear. Annoyingly it was actually worth doing.
The now very rarely seen whites have disappeared into the stratosphere but used to be uniquely wonderful in a very distinct style, I miss them greatly.
When I think what I used to be able to buy from the shelves in wine shops on my way home, particularly Lea and Sandeman....

 

[Paul Day]

Interesting to try a bottle of the slightly culty Kusuda Pinot Noir 2020 at home. It's not bad, not too overdone, but the fruit is a bit cherryish and I would want a little more complexity and length. I am not sure how it will turn out with age, and I wonder if I would be equally or more happy with, say, an equivalent Ata Rangi PN, that is more readily obtainable. Anyway for me, a curious diversion .. but I’d rather stick to a well-chosen Burgundy at this price level.



I’ve been working my way through some single bottles of Prager 2021’s and it is a fine range. The Zwerithaler Kammergut Gruner is the richest I’ve tried, and really quite exotic at this stage. Ideally, a little less of everything might be a good thing (14% btw). But the whole is held together by a beautiful underpinning acidity and it’s a compelling wine.

 

[Odd Rydland]

Fevre Chablis PC Fourchaume 2010

Fevre was one of the earliest to adopt other closure mechanisms than natural cork, but this is still a natural cork closure. Pretty and light golden colour, and not a hint of premox. Smells like sea, chalk and citrus. An acidic vintage as I understand it, but like a C Moreau Clos 2010 I drank last year it has fruit to carry it, it certainly helps that these vineyards have a good positioning in relation to sun and warmth.

Clean and focused taste, a little touch of orange peel, great grip and length. Well-balanced but noticeably distinct underlying acids. Citrus and stones at the end, even a small remnant of green apples. Fine wine.

 

[Edward Bolland]

What is the vintage variation like on these?

I haven’t drunk enough to give any meaningful reply I’m afraid.

 

[Odd Rydland]

When I drink enough my replies are seldom meaningful.

 

[Simon Grant]

Interesting to try a bottle of the slightly culty Kusuda Pinot Noir 2020 at home. It's not bad, not too overdone, but the fruit is a bit cherryish and I would want a little more complexity and length. I am not sure how it will turn out with age, and I wonder if I would be equally or more happy with, say, an equivalent Ata Rangi PN, that is more readily obtainable. Anyway for me, a curious diversion .. but I’d rather stick to a well-chosen Burgundy at this price level.

View attachment 31830

I’ve been working my way through some single bottles of Prager 2021’s and it is a fine range. The Zwerithaler Kammergut Gruner is the richest I’ve tried, and really quite exotic at this stage. Ideally, a little less of everything might be a good thing (14% btw). But it’s a compelling wine nonetheless.

View attachment 31831

I think the Kusuda merits some bottle age. The 2013 was showing some attractive development when last tasted a couple of years ago. You remind me it might be time to try another one. I didn’t taste it in its youth though for a direct comparison / sense of trajectory.

 

[Keith Prothero]

Refreshing acidity, good minerality and a salty aroma. Flavours of peach, apple and herbs . Wonderful, complex wine that is showing near its best after 9 years . 100% Chenin blanc from vines over 67 years old and close to a 100 pts. Two off for the ridiculous , pretentious and totally unnecessary wax seal 97 pts.

 

[Melvin Yeo]

DINNER WITH HIGH-SCHOOL FRIENDS AT IMPERIAL PARAGON - (2/6/2023)

Decided to share some Loires to show what great values they are, and all showed very well.

• 2017 Lucien Crochet Sancerre Le Chêne Marchand - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
  More tension and linearity than the Chidaine, most preferred the latter but I liked the salinity on this. Nice restraint, some green apple and gooseberry on the palate. Just a slight hint of greenness on entry that I found distracting but overall still a well-integrated wine. (91 pts.)
• 2019 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos du Breuil - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
  Much riper with some tropical fruit rather than citrus, and more oxidative compared to the Crochet, hint of residual sugar. Still had a healthy amount of acidity, the roundness gave this a lovely mouthfeel. Crowd pleaser. (91 pts.)
• 2015 Lucien Crochet Sancerre Rouge - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre Rouge
  Another Crochet Pinot Noir that could pass off as a decent Burgundy. Some lovely spice and lift from the VA on the nose, palate had some solar red fruit. Better on pop-and-pour with the freshness as it didn’t gain complexity in the glass. Nevertheless still a fantastic value. (91 pts.)
• 2020 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon
  Had the usual Baudry brett and pyrazines on the nose but not as severe compared to my previous experiences. Fresh vibrant red cherry fruit, think the ripe vintage made this a better/more approachable wine without losing its dusty, herbal Loire Cab Franc character. (90 pts.)
• 2016 Alain Voge Cornas Les Chailles - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
  Abjectly failed to place this as a northern Rhone. Very international in style with not much rusticity, texture was opulent but felt slightly artificially smoothened out. Some unintegrated oak on the nose, palate had ripe purple fruit with plum notes. Enjoyed it but doesn’t scream typical northern Rhone. Approachable now. (91 pts.)

• 2020 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barbera d'Alba Aves - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (4/6/2023)
  2020 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barbera d'Alba Aves
  Day 1 - Comes in at a whopping 15% alcohol and it is definitely felt even though it is well-managed. Obviously well-made in a ripe and plush way, but still needs time to come together further. Day 2 - Had a much more intoxicating, lifted nose. Palate was much more integrated with a silkiness and elegance that the producer is known for, almost reminded me of an excellent warm vintage Pinot. Give it plenty of time if you’re opening this now, scored based on second day's showing. (92 pts.)
• 2014 Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Javernières - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon (4/6/2023)
  Treads the line of a serious and playful Bojo well. Good structure behind the dark red fruit with a slight hint of plumminess. Impressive depth and length of finish for its level. Terrific value. (91 pts.)

 

[Leon Marks]

FRIDAY NIGHT FIZZ - (03/06/2023)

• 2006 Taittinger Champagne Brut Millésimé - France, Champagne
  Drinking great just now - perhaps a little less advanced than the last bottle? An oxidative hint and a certain richness - this is magic.
• NV Louis Roederer Champagne Collection 242 - France, Champagne
  Drunk from half magnum. More florality than I've noticed in the past - this continues to delight, especially at the price paid in the various offers that pop up.

Posted from CellarTracker

FAMILY DO WITH BARBECUE, PIZZA AND SALADS - Leafy West London (04/06/2023)

• 1988 Château Rausan-Ségla - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
  Served from magnum, two bottles tasted but both very similar. Earthy, a certain campfire note - this was definitely a cut above your regular barbecue wine but even in magnum this is most definitely ready to drink. Sub 13% wine is just so good for lunchtime quaffing.
• 1996 Clos du Marquis - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
  Double decanted an hour before serving, probably served slightly too warm. Lovely stuff, but perhaps lacking a little bit of the elegance and focus I associate with 96 left bank. I think this may well have been down to serving temp. Will try another soon to be sure…
• 2010 Château Ramafort - France, Bordeaux, Médoc
  Offered as the third of the three luncheon clarets, held its own very well in esteemed company. Again, looking forward to being able to taste the next bottle in more contemplative circumstances.

Posted from CellarTracker

 

[Mike Humphreys]

Back home today after 2 days of food and wine brilliance - had a couple of Peroni watching the cup final, then fired up the BBQ for some Halloumi and Lamb Chops, served with houmous, baba ghannoush, flatbreads and a tomato and olive salad. Washed down with the first rosé of the summer:

View attachment 31827

Proper Provence style rosé - bone dry with red apple and strawberry fruit, and cleansing acidity. A good food wine.

I quite like it. Mags from L&W good value for BBQs and it’s a decent wine that’s civilian friendly. The Klein Constantia Rose in mags not bad either..

 

[Mike Humphreys]

Had a few this weekend some Of interest. The Ceritas Old Block Pinot was pretty good (about 13%), Bereche NV with 2 years + bottle age good for a NV and price point.
Vilmart Emotion Rose. 13 has really settled down since the last bottle but still has depth and oak. Good though.

Liquid Farm Golden Slope 2017 Chardonnay. This has depth, richness a soft yellow feel but some really zippy acidity that kicks into the teeth enamel. Gives a real lift and sharp feel to the initial richness and softness. 13.2%

DP Plenitude 2 - 2002
after 30 mins I was very unimpressed as didn’t give a lot on the nose and had a bitter finish with a real dry extract feel. Within 2 hrs it really had improved a great deal. Lovely soft nose with caramel elements, palate softens and rounds out. Given values maybe not one to go overboard about but not sure I get DP.
very good in the end and not on the way down like many 02s I’ve had recently. At the value I’d still take the Cristal 02;

 

[Saina Nieminen]

This weekend's wine was a bit of a disappointment. I've been on a Cab Franc kick lately so I bought Domaine de Pallus "Les Pensées de Pallus" Chinon 2017. Not cheap at 25€ but this is supposed to be their better cuvée - and that, of course, should have been the first warning sign. I don't like "better" cuvées since it tends to mean more extraction and more oak. But I stuck my nose in the glass hoping for the best. And it doesn't even smell of Cab Franc. It smells more like a generic Bordeaux that tries to pass as a fancy one rather than a Loire wine. Toffeed oak aromas (yuck - few things I hate more in a wine) and a vague slightly vegetal Bordeaux blend character. Extracted and bitter. It seems to have good fruit underneath and good acidity so maybe in a decade this will be a lovely wine with proper Cab Franc scents. But tonight it just made me angry - I should have done my homework before buying one of these.

 

[Thom Blach]

This weekend's wine was a bit of a disappointment. I've been on a Cab Franc kick lately so I bought Domaine de Pallus "Les Pensées de Pallus" Chinon 2017. Not cheap at 25€ but this is supposed to be their better cuvée - and that, of course, should have been the first warning sign. I don't like "better" cuvées since it tends to mean more extraction and more oak. But I stuck my nose in the glass hoping for the best. And it doesn't even smell of Cab Franc. It smells more like a generic Bordeaux that tries to pass as a fancy one rather than a Loire wine. Toffeed oak aromas (yuck - few things I hate more in a wine) and a vague slightly vegetal Bordeaux blend character. Extracted and bitter. It seems to have good fruit underneath and good acidity so maybe in a decade this will be a lovely wine with proper Cab Franc scents. But tonight it just made me angry - I should have done my homework before buying one of these.

How much alcohol, Saina? some Loire reds are inappropriately boozy these days and these always seem to disappoint at least those of us for whom the greenness of Cabernet Franc is among its principal attractions.

 

[Paul J a i n e s]

A load of tapas today made with the kids - and slurped down with some basic wines with friends - Cune Rioja Blanco which is actially quite a decent BBQ wine. The a Ribera del Duero Sembro 2021 which was rather lovely -fresh red fruited rather than oaky black ftruit. I actually had a cheeky 15 min nap on the sofa between courses..... lovely. We ended up with a 2015 Campo Viejo Gran Reserva which I was expecting to be horrible but is actually drinkable.

Friends+sun+booze = good time....

 

[Richard Zambuni]

Cune Rioja Blanco which is actially quite a decent BBQ wine

And very good value for what it is.

 

[Saina Nieminen]

How much alcohol, Saina? some Loire reds are inappropriately boozy these days and these always seem to disappoint at least those of us for whom the greenness of Cabernet Franc is among its principal attractions.

Just 13% so only 0,5-1% more than ideal. I honestly don't think the ripeness is my problem but rather the amount of extraction and one very annoying scent from what is probably a very small amount of new wood that I just intensely dislike.

 

[Paul J a i n e s]

And very good value for what it is.

I think so, Richard. We pick it up now and then when we have a random selection of friends over for a BBQ - I think it is quite a decent little wine. I always expect it to be sweet and oaky and I am always surprised when it is not. Maybe I am getting forgetful......

 

[Ian Hampsted]

Over the last week or so

Gian Luca Colombo Segni di Langa Nebbiolo D’Alba 2020 - really quite substantive and powerful, with quite a lot of weight, impressive and highly accessible already, top quality for a generic ND’A.

Dujac MSD villages 2014 - approachable but still a work in progress, with lots of substance here. My guess is that it will hit is stride - and be worth waiting for - in 3-5 years.

Sorrel Greal Hermitage 2004 - open for business; a cacophony of moving parts like an old fashioned Italian sports car, old school with white pepper and bacon to the fore, throws a lot of sentiment, thrilling

Beychevelle 1985 - a vgi (half) bottle, unlike the one we had in February, which was controversial/borderline dodge. This was a beauty. Bricking orange. Autumn leaves with smokiness and still rich fruit with fine acidity. Fully mature but still in a great spot.

De Millery 2012 - this has matured quite quickly - since I last tried one of these about a year ago iirc - and this is now delightful and delicious, merlot driven (house wine for the Manoncourt family at Figeac, quite different from the more cab-dominated Figeac). If you have some give it a whirl, it is impressive, in its drinking window, and delivers good vfm at the original selling price - about £27 pb ib iirc. But it will not be a long-lived wine like Figeac. Nor is it as complex. Galloni over-hyped this a bit, I reckon. Still nice to own some - I also have the 2016 and 2017 in cases too - not sure when I will be able to drink them all - I would hazard that the 2012 will be at its peak drinking window over the next decade.