I’ve gone for which five do I immediately recall with the most happiness. Happiness being a function of pleasure and meaning, context and subjectivity is all. One of these is objectively far from a great wine, but for other reasons possibly the best of them all.
85 La Tâche. Paradoxically this was tasted in some of the worst possible circumstances, opened on a what the hell basis by a terminally ill mentor and friend (he would die shortly afterwards) as part of an incredible generous and humbling farewell that also included 53 Latour, 61 Palmer, 76 Trotanoy, 80 Petrus, 63 Taylor… I believe the DRC, still young and on its super deluxe fruit, was selected by a man looking the end in the eye to represent the Olympus of youthful beauty and promise. Piam in memoriam.
62 Jaboulet CNDP Les Cedres. Bunking off from college to spend, ahem, practically a term’s grant on Sunday lunch at Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons was my first experience of gastronomy and restauration at that level, ludicrously chintzy, gloriously baroque. I ate snails with mushrooms, pigeon stuffed with boudin blanc, brie de Meaux aux truffes, what a more modest Frenchman might call a declinaison was to chef a symphonie fantastique of apple... “Stay always with the Rhone”, said the sommelier, probably to this day the most valuable food and wine matching advice I’ve ever received.
83 Trimbach Gewurztraminer Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre. The fish soup at the now defunct Markwicks in Bristol, which chef developed from the Carved Angel with Joyce Molyneux and took to a new dimension, has to be a contender for my top restaurant dish ever. I tried many wine pairings over the years. This was the standout, a synergistic marriage, voluptuous but precise, all held together by saffron and rouille.
Retsina. The proper stuff, purchased for a few coins from a backstreet shop in Corfu Town, in a recycled plastic oil bottle, satisfactorily oxidised and honking with pine, consumed with a picnic overlooking the cricket ground, with my imminent fiancée.
83 Chave Hermitage. Not long after the Greek adventure we enjoyed this masterpiece, so complex and complete, intellectual and sensuous, at home with another Joyce Molyneux ditto, pot roast pheasant with celery and bacon. One of only two wines ever to receive a score of 10/10 from my wife.