TN Zambuni Jadotfest 2018

Discussion in 'UK Wine Forum' started by Simon Grant, Nov 8, 2018.

  1. Initial thoughts from table 1...

    ZAMBUNI JADOTFEST 2018 - La Trompette, London (08/11/2018)

    Turbot, Jerusalem artichokes, fresh walnuts and lemon
    • 1993 Louis Jadot Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
      Magnum. Light gold, deepening slightly in the glass. Proper nose. Composed. A touch of oatmeal. Nicely GC weight with a sense of viscosity. Yellow fruit. Mellow and smooth. Initially this lacks a little length, and the nose comes and goes a bit, but after 90mins this is top notch. Singing. ***** (95 pts.)
    • 2010 Louis Jadot Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
      Light gold. A little less dense than the 93 Batard, though it does fill out. Really quite spicy on the nose, some oak evident. A little more youthful drive and more mineral line and zip on the finish. Fills and becomes more rich with air. Nose flits between volatility and creamy smoothness before settling down to something more defined. Lots of interest but really needs time to meld. **(**1/2) (94 pts.)
    • 1999 Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
      Magnum. Pale gold. Mineral, a touch of florality. More lithe and elegantly fruited but without the gravitas of the GCs. Very pretty indeed. **** (91 pts.)
    Mallard, swede, turnips and quince
    Roast Herdwick hogget, ceps, salsify and marjoram
    • 1993 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Domaine Louis Jadot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
      Cooler and more restrained than the 96/97 alongside. Fine boned, but slightly humourless and aloof. A touch haughty even. Requires thought and effort, but worth it for the slightly more intellectual pleasure. Glacial. ***(*) to ***(*1/2) (94 pts.)
    • 1996 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Domaine Louis Jadot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
      Dense but dull dark red. Just a hint of garnet on the rim. Cool. Slightly minty before a restrained meatiness. Shape and line as well as depth, all in an elegant frame. Filling out a bit with air, and flattening a little. This dips and doesn’t quite maintain its early promise. All relative though. **** (93 pts.)
    • 1997 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Domaine Louis Jadot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
      Dense garnet. Nicely meaty, savoury nose. A touch of mint too. Nicely approachable. Not the penetration of the 93/96 but certainly nicely ready. Lacks some of the polish of a previous bottle, a bit softer and broader. **** (91 pts.)
    Aged Comté and Cevenne onion tart
    • 1998 Louis Jadot Corton-Pougets Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
      Magnum. Corton, Jadot, 98? Not nearly as bracing as one might have expected. Far from it, in fact. Very smooth and mellow and really quite complex and polished. Accomplished. However, after 30mins of so this starts to tighten and show a stewed black tea nose. It does keep fluid on the nose with orange and cranberry coming in, but the palate does seem to remain a little more taut than the initial impression. ****1/2 tightening to **(**) (92 pts.)
    • 1991 Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
      Slightly mute and metallic on the nose. Seems a little more nuanced on the palate, and it does pick up. Disappointing in its context though. Not the weakest wine, but the most below par. Shame, nowhere near previous bottles of this. Bare **** (91 pts.)
    Posted from CellarTracker
     
  2. Chapeau, Simon !

    Lovely notes. Impressions of wines from table 2 to follow.
     
    Leon Marks likes this.
  3. Gotta say that was excellent!

    Thank you Trompette. And Stamatis v solicitous and helpful.

    On our table, not subject to the plutocratic deficit by which good wines remain always in the shade of grand wines, our table was rather thrilled. I think Jadot came over rather well. I was encumbered by the remains of a cold so structure assumed an even greater than usual importance. Interestingly that revealed house style to be consistent structurally across terroir although less so across vintages.

    Rather than the Dujac tasting of Dujac phenomenon, somehow more like Van Gogh being recognisably Van Gogh ie house signature Yes, but not samey.

    The PCs were as pleasing as the GCs.

    98s - CSJ and CSD did well.

    96s - Theurons and CSD - were a touch sharp.

    02 - Theurons - vg balance and texture.

    05 Theurons - a concentrated version of the 02 and with time will best it.

    07 Commaraine - pretty, 07 in a good way.

    Food was first rate. I'd have eaten everything twice over! There was a bit of an overly citric blob on the turbot plate but other than that excellent throughout.

    Thank you Richard for organising a lovely evening.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018
  4. I'm so envious truly.

    Glad the wines showed well and a really strong consistent showing for Ursules.

    Perhaps could have expected a little more from the Chambertin '97 with the well documented success for Jadot in that year. My GC CSJ's have been super and I also had a couple of super VR Suchots too.

    More notes please!
     
  5. Evocative notes, Simon. I’m looking forward to others.
    Glad the evening went so well & that Jadot delivered. Wish I’d been there.
     
  6. Thanks for the excellent notes. I'm actually a bit shocked to realise how much Jadot I own. They will not make my fortune, I fear, but there is much pleasure to be had. Perhaps the Ursules really is the wine to buy from here.
     
  7. Huge thanks to Rob, Stamatis and colleagues at La T. The food was splendid and matched the wines very well which in turn were shown to their best by being served in burgundy glasses. Exemplary service throughout.

    As to Jadot? The reds, solid, reliable and very good without hitting the thrilling highs. Maybe a bit foresquare, but satisfying. The whites when not poxed, and we were fortunate tonight, perhaps generating a frisson that the reds didn’t quite manage. The highs are higher, and the lows, well...

    Bravo Richard!

    Simon
     
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  8. A 1989 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Theurons was the first bottle of Burgundy I ever tasted (a glorious experience I recall), and ever since I've always had a soft spot for the Domaine.

    Over on table 2 we kicked off proceedings with a Magnum of 1999 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes. A little subdued initially (due to its cold temperature) but once it warmed up it really began to hit it's stride; some floral notes, toasted pine nuts giving way to a lovely richness underpinned by a really racy acidic bite. Also some tannins present which makes it feel a little tight on the finish.

    In contrast the 1993 Batard Montrachet was fatter, fuller, waxy, buttery and a marked step up in quality. Out of the 2 wines though I preferred the raciness of the Combettes.

    Next up a flight of 3 Cote de Beaune Reds and what a delightful flight this was. Muscular and dense would be how I would describe the 2005 Beaune 1er Cru Theurons. Youthful at this stage (as I expected) but plenty of material here to ensure a bright future ahead. In contrast the 2002 Beaune 1er Cru Theurons is much more precise and fine with rasping strawberry fruits, some mushroomy aromatics and sappy acidity. A 2007 Pommard 1er Cru Clos de la Commeraine completed the flight and for me this was my wine of the evening. First thing that strikes you is the enticing lifted floral perfume of this wine which grabs your attention. It's light in body but the delicate marriage of soft red fruit, racy acidity and fine tannins tingles on your tongue like a ballerina tip toeing around a stage. Delicious and a wine I've never tasted before.

    The Cote de Nuits flight that followed was a definite step up in terms of structure and weight, with a result that any aromatics seemed to be a little lost. Pick for me was the 1998 Clos St Dennis; earthy, gamey, forest floor mulch with sappy acidity and very fine tannins. A complete wine which really comes alive with the Hogget main course. The 1998 Clos St Jacques was much bigger and beefier in style with angular structure and a bit moody. Still with all that being said it did give you a glimpse of what delights lie ahead and this will be the wine that will improve greatly with time. I recall Steve saying that he had 11 bottles of this left; lucky man! :D Was not overly fussed on the 1996 Clos St Dennis which I found a bit faded and lacking excitement. Someone described it as a Claret lovers "Burgundy" ; probably the reason that I was not a fan!

    A very fine evening indeed. Thanks to Richard for putting this altogether and Stamatis and the guys at Trompette for making the evening a real success. Also great to share the generous Vinous delights and company of my fellow diners. A seasonal menu which ate very well with the wines. The Roast Hogget in particular was beautifully cooked and packed full of flavour.

    Hopefully there will be another Jadot instalment this time next year?

    IMG_20181108_2204043.jpg IMG_20181108_2110149.jpg IMG_20181108_2134585.jpg IMG_20181108_1936054.jpg IMG_20181108_2031141.jpg IMG_20181108_2135194.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018
  9. A neat encapsulation of Jadot. It's the lack of flash in the reds that I admire - though I've rarely encountered the GCs.
     
  10. I'm finding this to be so often the case these days that I am at least half coming to the conclusion that one should stick to lesser appellations if one wants to drink the wines at younger than thirty years old. A generalisation, of course, with a thousand exceptions.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018
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  11. I for one certainly want to drink wines which are less than 30YO. If for no other reason than I would forsake the opportunity of drinking the to-be-wonderful 2018s, as it would be foolhardy of me to anticipate being here in 30 years time.
     
  12. Wonderful evening - no disappointing wine, and wonderful conversation. Huge thanks to Richard for organising this, and to Trompette for looking after us so well. Their incredible dedication - in particular that of Stamatis - is inspiring. If we all cared about what we do as much as the people of Trompette do, the world would surely be a much better place.

    On our table the 98s really sang, I also hugely enjoyed the 02 Theurons. The 96s were all very 96-y to me - people say "acidity" and I'm sure they're right but I am always left with the impression of drinking road surface somehow.
     
  13. It has certainly seemed to me recently that after a brief awakening 96s need now to be left again, unless one is lucky enough to have modest village wines.
     
  14. What a super evening - La Trompette did us proud with food that matched the wines perfectly. The wine service from Stamatis was patient, solicitous, and unflustered. The flavours of the dishes were all pristine and detailed, and very autumnal. Thank you everyone for your company and for the excellent selection of wines. I always think that the trick to enjoying Jadot wines fully, is not to want them to be something else. Despite their larger scale and intensity, especially at the grand cru level, and with the reds, they accurately express the vintage and the soil in my experience and sometimes really hit the heights. If anything, I like their Cote de Beaune wines best of all and I've put my money where my mouth is over the years. The whites can be stunning and as good as anything else out there at full maturity. Thank you also to table 2 for letting me have a sip of so many of your wines.

    Bâtard-Montrachet grand cru Maison Louis Jadot 1993 en magnum

    A burnished gold colour. Initially served quite cold, so the nose takes time to open up and when it does there are notes of classic aged white burgundy with yellow stone fruit, ginger and quince, but it was more complex and integrated than I can express with figurative expressions. This wine has it all – lovely length, the weight of Bâtard reined in by seamless and appropriate acidity. Finishes with a freshening savoury twist. I have to say that some of the very best fully mature white burgundies I have drunk have been from this house. It holds up in the glass really well – it was just as impressive at the end of the evening as at the start. Outstanding and probably the WOTN for me. *****

    Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles grand cru Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 2010
    Younger and more gangly than I expected for a 2010. This is a rather grand wine that is very much betwixt and between. It’s very hard to get an accurate bead on this – even over three or more hours. It starts with a powdery fruit nose, but then becomes more sullenly reductive – and never really throws that reduction off. On the palate, it is long, balanced with clearly grand cru weight and presence, but it never lets go. If it escapes the premox risk, this will be superb in another 10-12 years. *(***)

    Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes Maison Louis Jadot 1999 en magnum
    A very bright, white-gold colour. Reassuringly Puligny-esque with a crisp, mineral, precise nose with a hint of cooked pearskins – very attractive. It is crisp and shapely on the palate too, with good length and plenty of tension. It runs on well to a crisply mineral finish. This tastes young and superfresh, and will go for ages in this format. It doesn’t have the weight of the two grand crus, but this is classic 1er cru Puligny. ****

    Beaune 1er cru Les Vignes Franches Clos des Ursules Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 1997
    Not quite what I remember when I last had the 1997, this has a beetrooty, rhubarb nose with some gamey decadence too. The wine is well-balanced, savoury and evolved on the palate, lacking a little sophistication up against the 1999. Some tannin still at the finish. A creditable 1997, but the previous two bottles were livelier. ***½

    Beaune 1er cru Les Vignes Franches Clos des Ursules Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 1999
    On the other hand, the 1999 was very much the best bottle of this vintage that I’ve had to date. There is a deliciously smoky nose with crisp, dark red cherry and raspberry fruit – very attractive. This is quite large-scaled and deep for a Clos des Ursules, but you also sense the precision here – the tannins are very ripe and fine. This is drinking well, but it’s not quite at full maturity. Very fine. *****

    Beaune 1er cru Les Vignes Franches Clos des Ursules Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 2001
    The 1998 was corked and replaced by this 2001. The 2001 was very like the 1997, with just a little more freshness and weight – clearly from the same soil and in the Jadot house style. The nose is a bit stemmy, and there’s a touch of farmyard after time, which complements the red fruit notes. Nice length and very Côte de Beaune in style. ***½

    Chambertin Clos de Bèze grand cru Domaine Louis Jadot 1993
    There is a clear step up in intensity with the grand cru reds. The 1993 Clos de Bèze tastes fully mature to my palate, but at the same time it has plenty of freshness, lift, and a few unresolved tannins at the finish. The fruit has evolved into a dusty, rusty secondary phase. It is attractively severe in the 1993 way. Lovely. No hurry here. ****

    Chambertin Clos de Bèze grand cru Domaine Louis Jadot 1996
    This is a big wine and it has that august austerity that comes with the 1996 acids and fruit. After time there are notes of horse stables along with the black fruit. This is a very cool-fruited, deep wine – a burgundy for claret drinkers. Drinking well now, but possibly with a little bit more to come. ****(½)

    Chambertin Clos de Bèze grand cru Domaine Louis Jadot 1997
    Each of the examples of Clos de Bèze really reflects the vintage differences very distinctly. The 1997 is more loose-knight and slightly less serious than the 1993 and 1996, but no less enjoyable for that. This has quite a smoky almost sexy nose. The fruit is open and expansive with lovely depth, but no heaviness. At its peak now I think. Perhaps a little less precise than the bottle we enjoyed at The Harwood Arms Jadot evening. ****

    Corton-Pougets grand cru Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot 1998 en magnum
    This is a wine that was very probably my favourite of the reds on the night. There is a real sense of terroir here, which is not masked by the broader house style. There are rust, blood, and ferrous notes on the nose – all classic signs of top-drawer Corton. This is long, deep and full of soil tones. Despite its weight this wine has real energy and is really exciting. There is a sense of austerity from the 1998 structure, but the fruit balances out the structure admirably. First class. ****½, possibly *****.

    Vosne-Romanée 1er cru Les Suchots Maison Louis Jadot 1991
    This has a deep, chocolatey colour, but is a bit cabbagey and vegetal on the nose. It’s also a little unstructured on the palate with soft, shapeless fruit.

    Coteaux du Layon Moulin Touchais 1971
    I was lucky enough to be given a small glass of this from the other table and it was delicious. There is a nose of baked apple and quince with notes of butterscotch and fudge as bass notes. This is long on the palate, fully mature now of course as it nears the half century, but still with plenty of energy and detail. ****
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018
  15. Very pleasantly surprised by the positive notes on the Combettes 99 as I would have thought that it lay deep within the Jadot prem-ox zone.

    Which of these possibilities do you think the most likely?

    1. I am mistaken about the prem-ox zone

    2. You got very lucky.

    3. Magnums are less subject to prep-ox. (Anecdotally, it seems as though fewer magnums are prem-oxed, but who drinks enough magnums of white burgundy to form a useful view. I wonder, though, if others share this impression?)

    4. Maybe there is something in Jasper's theory that poem-oxed wines can come round.
     
  16. I think all your first three points are correct Spenser, it is generally thought that the Jadot problems start with the 2000 vintage, luck is part of any good wine experience and magnums have several years in hand in comparison to bottles. I'm hoping that no.4 will yet prove to be so!
     
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  17. Spenser - I have no idea what the answers to your questions are. However, I would be extraordinarily surprised if it had been secretly poxed and then purged itself. This wine had a purity and freshness that belied any encounter with any form of oxidation.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018
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  18. Like Richard - I can't imagine that this got poxed and the pox somehow went away. I have heard from an auctioneer of this parish that one can tell by colour, when lit from behind - and certainly this appeared very clear. The merchant who sold it to me (also at our dinner) was very confident of this bottle, and said that in poxed bottles he sees a fine (and not tartaric acid crystal looking) sediment in the next of the bottles, which this didn't have.
     
  19. Good to return to La Trompette to share a splendid line up of Jadot and top notch cuisine with good friends on both tables. They were positioned close enough so that one table could eavesdrop on the other table’s conversation, and when the topic of conversation became controversial the other table fell silent.

    On the Premium Economy table we were fortunate, perhaps even more so than those on the Grandees table. All the wines showed extremely well apart from my 1996 CSD, which was a tad skulky.

    Combettes 99 was delightfully resolved while the 93 Batard had an extra layer of exquisite complexity and refinement.

    The Beaune Therons 2002 had superb precision, tension and strawberry pinot fruit. The 2005 was bigger framed and still resolving while the 2007 Commarraine was also a revelation, a relaxed cool-fruited Pommard.

    In the next flight the two 98s really shone, and it was difficult to pick a winner between the CSD and CSJ. Richard’s 98 Corton-Pougets was similarly exceptional.

    Well done and thanks to him for pulling this together and La T for laying on a fine evening.

    At our table we were kicking ourselves for not picking up more Jadot wines over the years. Especially with the benefit of hindsight they were absolute bargains. Have about a case and a half of Ursules in storage, but that’s it.
     
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  20. Reassured to discover that I still have a bit more Jadot knocking about which, given how prices have risen, is reassuring.
     
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  21. You should have listened to the coded messages from the likes of me and Alex Jagger...;).

    At one time there was so much older Cote de Beaune Jadot around with ten plus years of age at reasonable prices (often at the release price) that we all thought it would never end - no-one seemed to want them at the time. I did pick up a fair bit, but with hindsight I would have bought even more.
     
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  22. I understand the sentiments, but with hindsight, I wish I had bought no Jadot at all, but saved my money to buy Jayer, DRC, Roumier and Rousseau at prevailing rates. In truth, in the crazy world of Burgundy, even now, Jadot with age is not that expensive on a relative scale, and it is noticeable that 2017 prices for many Jadot reds are well in excess of other good vintages of the same wines in the marketplace such as 2010. Selling one bottle of Rousseau Beze will typically give you enough proceeds (even allowing for transaction costs) to buy 12 bottles if not more of the same vintage of Jadot Beze but 15 years ago the prices would have been about the same.
     
  23. Just for fun - here are the notes for what was the first Jadotfest (at The Ledbury) - in the intro, I made the mental note to open the chequebook. Eight years ago I had underestimated how long these wines will age. We drank a much younger range of wines at this first dinner:

    A few personal observations.
    1) I've always liked Jadot wines and I've always had some odd bottles in the cellar at any one time, but I now realize how incredibly ageworthy they are at the higher levels. None of even the 1er crus on our table had reached a secondary phase, let alone the grand crus. I have had some of the lesser Beaune premier crus from 1999 that seemed to be drinking, but I am sure that even these will hold up well for another ten years. 2) I really enjoy dinners where we can combine white and red wines. Two of the Jadot whites were superb, and one thankfully was even mature. 3) I will be buying more Jadot wines - this dinner had the same influence on me as the DDC one - I drank wines I wanted to drink more of. 4) All the wines were domaine wines with the exception of the Clos de Vougeot.

    Duc de Magenta table

    Flight one: the whites

    Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Folatieres 1995
    A glorious, nutty, oily nose followed up with creamy, long, well-balanced fruit - still fresh but fully mature. Finishes with a lingering note of cloves. Excellent.

    Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle Domaine du Duc de Magenta 1996
    A reduced and flat nose with sadly flat fruit thereafter. Not really premoxed - just over the hill.

    Le Montrachet grand cru 2004
    If ever the phrase 'an iron fist in a velvet glove' had applicability it was here. The wine had a closed yet intense nose with some floral notes wriggling their way out. Great intensity on the palate, clenched, extracted, yet light on its feet. Hugely intense at the finish - no heaviness to be seen. Breathtaking wine.

    Flight two: the 1er crus

    Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru Les Cazetiers 1999
    For the fact freaks this is the smallest holding of all Jadot's 1er and grand cru reds at just 0.1 hectare - that's just a few rows of vines. The first bottle was flawed - I am not sure that it was TCA, but something was amiss. For once, I had a back-up with me. The second bottle was on song though with a dense, complex nose redolent of the vintage. Lovely breadth on the palate, complex, bright fruit, strawberry/raspberry compote with an undertow of minerality. Great conviction here. Darker cherry fruits after 30 minutes. Long. Will hold very well. Come back in 8-10 years.

    Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru Clos St Jacques 1998
    Good colour. Bright, almost exotic nose followed by deep, tight red fruits on the palate. Linear and tightly wound. Lovely wine. Come back in 8-10 years.

    Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru Clos St Jacques 1997
    The most evolved nose of this second flight. Again bright, lively, runs beautifully over the palate with plenty of freshness. Hold for 5-8 years. The best showing in the flight on the night, but I couldn't say that any one of these wines was intrinsically better than another. Lovely wines, all three.

    Flight three: the grand crus

    Bonnes Mares grand cru 2000
    The youngest tasting of this flight with really tight fruit. But there's no doubt that a wonderful wine will emerge here. Very, very good wine from an average vintage.

    Clos de Vougeot grand cru 1999 (negociant wine)
    In a noticeably heavier bottle than the other reds for some reason, this wine was more marked on the nose and palate by oak than any of the other reds. The oak removed any trace of terroir. But this was not a poor wine; there was very good colour, lovely length on the palate with dark cherry fruit. This will come round but it will always be more anonymous than the Gevrey-Chambertin premier crus for instance.

    Charmes-Chambertin grand cru 1999
    A very exotic and rather lovely nose. I really liked it. The most open on the nose and palate of the grand crus for me. Also rather sexily exotic on the palate with hints of anise and clove, and possibly fennel seeds. Great length, good acidity and striking length. Excellent.
     
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  24. I think Richard is discussing the very modest end, Paul, and it was true that for years one could buy ready to drink Beaunes and Savignys for less than £15 a bottle or so. At that price they really were good value and I have come to think that they anyway are the most characterful wines in the whole portfolio in many ways.
     
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  25. Tom, you can still buy things like Domaine Gagey Clos des Guettes 2014 for £240 per 12 bottles. That's probably in line with inflation, no more.
     

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